My draw through turbo

[Clonebug]

If you get a crank you then need to get heads and a cam that will support the revs along with an intake and all the other snowballing parts that keep you from the ultimate goal of FI.

My W-100 cam engine quits making power at 5200 rpm.
If you run a smaller cam and a bigger engine you are just going to starve it.

Either leave it alone and rev it to 5500 and turn up the boost ....or build a big engine to take advantage of the parts.

Just remember you still need a good tune......when you blow that $6000.00 box of stroker parts there will be some serious weeping and gnashing of teeth..

[buguy]

Hard to argue Clones point. I was just reading on the other site another dude that built a nice 2387 with wedge port heads and 48 IDA's. Made 163hp on a known good chassis dyno. Clone made much more than that on a very mild 1679 longblock.

[rubenski]

I have a w110 in my NA 1641 and power doesnt drop at 5500 rpms.
On my dyno run we set the rev lim at 5600.

Also have 1.25 rockers.

[buguy]

Maybe it's the stock heads that are the limiter on the rpm? That's why I suggested a stroker. I've never ran one myself, but in theory. 74-82mm crank should run on a stock head and a mild cam and would surely pull like a train. And wouldn't need revs to be a stump puller. From the reading I've done it seems you can even use the stock rods. But again. No experience, just research.

[advinnie]

So here's my thoughts
Am I happy with this engine ? YES
can it hit 90mph from a standing start in seconds? Yes
Does it return good mpg ? YES 18-22mpg
Does boost kickin ok? YES, @2.5k boost starts, 8psi @3K
When in their gear
Do I run out of rpm's? Yes in 1st & 2nd I over shoot the
5500rpm limit
Will the turbo, cam and carb allow the engine to rev higher? YES alot higher up to 7000 rpm
Can I run more boost? NO not if I want to keep it drivable
And keep a good mpg return
Can this set up produce more boost? YES max 16psi
Can I run this ? NO unless I have better fuel control
What else do I want from this engine? More torque in 1st
& 2nd gear

So this is what I want to improve
1-More torque in the Frist two gears
2-Higher rpm
3-Better fuel management

How can I solve the above three points?
Well point 2 is easy CW crank
Point 3 get EFI
Point 1 bigger crank and pistons but that's the slippery slope I don't want to go down cause a bigger crank means bigger pistons witch means case and head work or even new bigger valved heads, new exhaust system and that all cost money lots of it
Is it worth ripping about a good working engine ? NO

[petew]

I think you could solve a lot of your issues with EFI. That would allow you to tune better, run more boost, stop over-revving and hold what you have together until you're ready to build something. So it will kill 1. and 3. while you save for 2.

[advinnie]

Yes I think it's time for EFI and learn on this engine how it all works. I've been quoted £1500/$2000 for a full kit is this about right or can it be done for less?

[buguy]

I agree. If I hadn't of had a hurt engine I certainly would have made efi my next step. That was my plan all along. Efi the stock engine so I could learn it before risking too much $$$ on the engine in case I made a mistake in tuning.

[advinnie]

Well if it ant broke don't fix it

[advinnie]

Just a thought so please tell me if I'm wrong here.
I'm running 28mm vents in my Weber 40 dcoe carb and as I said earlier the engine can hit 7000 rpm, now one of my goals is to increase the bottom end torque would stepping down to 26mm vents help do this?

[madmike]

probably but you'll' sacrifice top end rpm your after

[advinnie]

I realize that but at the moment the engine is still pulling strong up to 7000rpm, how high it will go I have no idea but how much of an increase will I see in the lower end torque if I was to drop down from a pair of 28mm vents to 26 or even 24mm vents?
I know it will bring the power in lower down in the rpm range ( not bring the boost in earlier)but by how much?

[Clonebug]

Without a dyno you can't tell where it quits making more power.
Mine wants to keep revving even higher than 5800 but I don't go that high. I can't tell it's pulling less after 5200 rpm.
The Dyno proved the max power is at 5200 so there is really no sense going higher especially with a stock crank.
The only reason you would possibly want to rev past the peak power would be to stay out of the lag area if your turbo doesn't stay spooled between shifts.

It's all a money game.......more power costs in some way.
Rev it to high and risk ruining the engine....add too much boost without a good tune...risking ruining the engine.

Get your idle, cruise and full boost AFR's set at a lower boost level ...then work up and see what needs changing to keep everything in check.

[buguy]

Kind of off topic, but Clone do use your 2 step in the ecu at all to help with spool during shifts?

[advinnie]

Yes that's an interesting question