My draw through turbo

[advinnie]

Any intelligent engine builds out there got some questions.
Right I'm starting vto get some engine parts together for a better engine but still not sure if I will stick with the 1600 or do a 1915 engine. All I now is that I will be using the parts below but am not sure on the stock Conrods.
69mm c/w crank
8 dowel lightened forged flywheel or stock weight?
Forged pistons 85.5 or 94mm not decided
Engle 100 or scat c35 cam? I have both
Light weight lifters
Stock, I beam or H beam Conrods?
The reason I've not decided on engine size is because the little 1600 is just great, it's faster than most cars on the road I love it and yes I know a 1915cc will be a lot faster but a lot more expensive to build.
The main problem with the current 1600 is that its got a stock crank in it and I want to be able to spin 7000rpm max limit like I used to on my 2276 motor but than one cause a small fortune to build

[66brm]

Stock rods will be fine, get a set reconditioned, new bolts, resized and most important balanced

[madmike]

I agree . stock rods are Good until someone hacks them for a stroker and removes too much in that case I use H-beams, ,

[advinnie]

Cheers lads.
I've decided that I will stay with the 1600 engine size for now and just fit a C/W crank. Hopefully get it all done over the winter months

[buguy]

I had the same dilemma. My big hangup was that a stroker crank is pretty much the same price as a 69mm. The real money is the heads. After running the calculator it does seem smarter to run a stock size engine and use the money for fuel injection. With fuel injection, and I believe I read you have a water/meth injection, you could run more boost safely and would end up with the same power as a larger engine. And would also be able to get it to run better. Plus won't be sending off your stuff to get it all bored out and such.

[rubenski]

Exactly!

[buguy]

Too much stroke and you will need expensive heads though so it's a double edged sword.

[advinnie]

Yes that's my issue. All the cranks are the same price give or take a few pennies but a bigger engine news bigger valved heads and the price of the engine build will just keep on going up.
Yes if I could I would build the biggest fastest engine I can but in reality that is not going to happen. My 2276 engine was a blast to drive it really was. it had loads of torque and was bloody fast but saying that when the 1600 comes on boost it is just as fast (well it feels like it)
But some how the 1600 turbo is a lot more fun to drive it really is, it's great in town traffic the throttle response is instant and the sound of the turbo is great it's like a quire of angles singing
Anyway I'm still toying with the idea of a 1915cc engine but the only heads I have are stock one and I think the valve will be to small.

Now if I was and I'm Shaw I am going to stick with the 1600 I have two cams to choose from.
First is an Engle 100 witch I'm running at the moment and the other is a scat C35 witch one would you lot go for?
Engle 100 specs are
.383" Cam Lift, .420" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 276 degrees of advertised duration, and 236 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center

Scat C35 specs are
.381" Cam Lift, .420" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers) 285 degrees of advertised duration, and 246 degrees of duration at .050", on a 108 Lobe Center.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Vinnie, if I remember correctly the 1915 is a stock case and heads opened up all the way and are/can be a bit thin. Some type I blocks don't seem to like them and fall apart or at least that was the way it was when I was looking into it.

A 1176 or an 1835 the case and heads are opened up the same but the 1835 barrels are a bit thinner if of the two I remember correctly. There is an other deal with I think they are AA pistons. I don't know much about them but hear/see them every-so-often.

A 1641 is stock case and heads but thinner barrels and there are some thinner walled version available in the stock case and heads arena. I wouldn't go for those two.

[advinnie]

For now I'm going to stick with a high rev'ing 1600
Can anyone tell me is it actually worth running straight cut gear?

[buguy]

The 94mm barrels are the same thickness as stock ones.
And I've read stock heads will work great on a 1915 if you don't plan to rev it too much. I don't know from experience, but I will tell you soon!

[buguy]

Also I read it frees up a tiny bit of hp but makes lots of noise running straight cut gears. Also decreases the thrust load on the cam.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Pardon, I was talking about the engine case.

[Chip Birks]

Also I read it frees up a tiny bit of hp but makes lots of noise running straight cut gears. Also decreases the thrust load on the cam.

Totally depends on the gears, and case combo. Mine aren't loud. Had a couple different sets in it.

[madmike]

cases bored to fit the 94 mm is fine, I even have the stock 8mm studs ,never had a stud 'pulled' from being stupid u can have them 'step bored' too check in to it don't get empi straight cuts try to find forged not cast they help relieve the force on the cam bearings when using heavy springs
use the c35