My draw through turbo

[advinnie]

Can someone with more knowledge than me look at this website and let me know if any of this EFI stuff is any good for a 1600 turbo bug please.
https://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=1550025

[Chip Birks]

thedubshop.com

[advinnie]

Sent them an email

[andy198712]

that stuff will work, the crank trigger might be a bit ugly if it just bolts to the front of the pulley....


Mario does do a nice hidden crank trigger set up.

maybe get a basic setup (cheap) to start and slowly upgrade as you go?

i'm doing that. my crank trigger is hidden as its my flywheel and i've just brought some SP1 manifolds from VWSPEEDSHOP and their single billet throttle body (my SP1 have no throttles in them)

[advinnie]

Hi all just incase anyone is still following this I thought I would update you lot with what I've been up to.
First off yes the bug did make it to Belgium and back a total of 874 miles BUT I did go through eight plugs
All plugs where new and the first plug failed at around 240 ish miles the other and the other three original plugs failed before I had done 400 miles. All four plugs where so sooty they just wouldn't spark anymore, so four new plugs went in and within another 400 ish miles the plugs start failing again due to them being so sooty, so I'm running rich to rich so started the carb jetting all over again.
My mains went from 1.45's down to 1.35's and could still do with going a little smaller.
The idles have been down sizes from .50 f8's down to .45 F8's and the change is like night and day. I've always had an issue at crusing at around 2500-3000rpm cause the engine would load up and run rich causing the engine to become lumpy and jumpy when trying to cruise and I had to open her up to clear her out BUT now in any gear I can sit in this rpm range and she is bloody smooth us silk and not only that you can accelerate in any gear from 1200rpm to 5500 rpm and she sound great. But after all the changes I've done leaning her off has magnified another issue lve always had. The last issue I have is that I can accelerate as hard as I want as long as the manifold pressure does not go below -1 psi (101 Kpa)
For example if in cruising along with a manifold pressure of -7 psi and accelerate she is of like a rocket ( no boost as yet) as long as I keep the manifold pressure between -7 to -1 psi if I push the pedal a little bit more and the manifold pressure hits 0psi / 101kpa the engine basically stalls and dies unless you come if the pedal. So what I have to do is accelerate more gently through the 0 psi / 101kpa mark untill the turbo comes on line then I can boot it as hard as I can. If I'm at a stand still and lunch the car if the line like I'm racing it there is no problems at all.
I've tried .70 pump jets down to .50 pump jets but that has made no difference at all
Sorry for the long post

[kangaboy]

That EFI is starting to sound better and better, isn't it...?

Also, if you get those CB intakes that you posted earlier, you would just have to make a custom T manifold (like the original dual or single port manifolds), and in that case you would only require a single throttle body. I got a TB off of a Hyundai Elantra and it seems to work just fine. 47mm I think.

[advinnie]

EFI is definitely sounding better

[advinnie]

so so so happy, old people are great
As I was saying yesterday the turbo bug (blue thunder) is driving great except for that dam flat spot at any rpm around 101Kpa. Anyway my dad got so pissed off with me complaining about it he call one of his old friends who's 81 years old tomorrow. Anyway drove the bug to him told him what the problem was and what I thought was wrong, after Ivhad finished talking he told me to shut up and let him work
With in five minutes or just rev'ing it up and going for a quick drive he told me " that engine timing is so retarded im suprised it's running at all. Now I had my WOT timing at 30 degrees BTDC @ 3000 rpm, crusing timing at this rpm was 40 degrees BTDC and boost pressure I retarded 1 degree per 1 psi boost. Any one the old man keeper the 30 degrees BTDC at WOT but brought it in a lot earlier at 2500rpm and upped the idle timing from 13 degrees BTDC to 15 BTDC and set the timing boxes witch light up to 18 degrees BTDC when you set off from a standing start. He also retarded my cruise timing from 40 down to 35 and blended that down to idle timing. My first thought was that the engine is going to ping and suffer massive detonation with the timing at WOT coming in so fast and hard but I was wrong so so wrong. The take of from a standing start is amazing, she feels so much smoother when cruising and NO more flat spot around 101Kpa. In surprised how quickly the beetle can take full timing advance. Why the hell do all the websites and text books tell you to set the timing to 28-32 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpm when these engine work so much better with the max timing coming in 1000rpm earlier?

[66brm]

It's set that way to eliminate any more mechanical advance with a distributor, that why people talk about the 010 as a good performance dissy as it advances quicker than an 019. Since you have a bb you are no longer restricted to a mech advance dissy.

[madmike]

and u can remove one spring in the 010 dizzy and they advance even quicker

[advinnie]

I've stupidly because I was not aware of this have always based my ignition Maps with 24 degrees BTDC being at 2500rpm @ WOT and max timing at WOT of 28-32 degrees BTDC @3000 ish rpm cause I thought they were basically fixed timing points on the map table and added up to 10 degrees more timing when when at crusing manifold pressure.
Well I've seen doing many engine runs today and the beast is going good on the more agreessive map but I'm still running rich. I will get my notebook and get back to you with the A/F ratio figures in a bit

[advinnie]

Right heres my A/F ratio readings
Idle = 28.9:1
Normal acceleration from standing start= 12.7:1
Hard acceleration from standing start= 10.3:1
Crusing = 13.8:1
Cruising then normal acceleration= 13.8 down to 12.1:1
Cruising then hard acceleration = 13.8 down to 10.3:1

But an hard acceleration the A/F ratio drops to 10.3:1 untill around 101Kpa then it leans out to 12.9:1 till 104Kpa/0.5 psi boost then drops back down to 10.3:1 and stays there up to 8 psi/ 156 Kpa of boost then starts to lean of fast but normally I have my wastegate set to control boost at 8psi max.
So I'm a little rich on the cruise, I would like to be at 15-16:1 instead of the 13 8:1 witch I am at now but how? Smaller idles or mains?

Also I'm still rich on boost at 10.3:1 I would like to lean of to get a reading of 11.8-12.5:1 but how smaller mains?
Im also guessing that the reason I'm seeing a lean spot around 101Kpa is because of the carb (Weber 40 dcoe) being to big and the air flow starting to stall at this manifold pressure cause the 1600 engine just can't produce enough vacuum ?

[kangaboy]

Right heres my A/F ratio readings
Idle = 28.9:1

Really? Try again...

[advinnie]

Yep for real. At idle my innovate lm-2 reads 28.9 to 33.1:1
Untill I rise the rpm a little. I'm guessing it's so rich at idle it's confusing the reader?

[advinnie]

https://youtu.be/QdRkOOkdrsI
My turbo 1600. It can go faster than this but I found it bloody hard doing it one handed