My draw through turbo

[advinnie]

Yes CB performance black box. They have been helpful in the fact they have replied to my emails. They have told me to bypass the black box and just use a locked out distributor and see what happens so I did, set the timing to 24 BTDC went for a 52 mile drive and now problems at all. Then when I was home I started with the rpm at 900 and went up in 100rpm stages to 4000rpm and the timing stayed at 24 degrees plus or minus one degrees.
Then connected up the black box and went for another drive. Done 5 miles tops and the engine started playing up, turned on the computer and the software was indicating an idle rpm of between 900 to 4700 rpm and the timing was jumping around from 18 to 32 degrees and then the laptop was showing a idle rpm of 21,000 rpm . So long story short DONT BUY THE CB PERFORMANCE BLACK BOX it will last less than a year buy the megajokt system it's so much better and will last a lot longer. So for now I will run a 009 distributor with limited advance so my idle will be at 18 degrees and advance to 24 BTDC at 2500 rpm and no more.
I've also read that I can use a svda distributor and connect the vacuum can to the manifold I think so I can still have a good advance cruve and when boost kicks in it will retard the timing but I'm still looking into how to set it up.
Now can any tell me can I run the megaspark EFI system but only use the the ignition side of things not the fuel map untill I do decide to go EFI ?

[66brm]

Yes megasquirt will allow spark only or fuel only or can control both

[advinnie]

Cheers mate. Well I now have a strange electrical fault.
Right with the ignition turned off the coil has no power, turn the ignition on the coil has power, start the engine the engine starts
Turn the ignition off the engine continues to run and the coil has power I can even take the key out and the engine will still run.
But when I turn the ignition off all other electronic devices like the lights on all gauges, rpm gauge and fuel gauge turn of and the alternator goes off line and the warning light comes on telling me it's off line but coil still has power and engine still runs. Stall the engine by putting it in 4th gear go check the coil and no voltage at all untill I turn the ignition back on.

[Chip Birks]

Unplug the alternator light wire, the engine will stop. You need to install a diode in that wire.

[advinnie]

Right found out the problem with the black box miss reading the engines rpm. It was that the signal wire was to close to the 12 volt feeds wire as soon as I separated them the black box ignition system started to read correctly. I have also for two other issues.
1st issue was that with the timing gun placed on leads 1&2 the timing at idle was 15 degrees BTDC witch is what the laptop was saying but put the timing gun on leads 3&4 the idle timing vwas at 25 and 27 degrees BTDC wow that like 12 degrees more advance and it remained 12 degrees more advance throughout the hole rpm range so through that distributor away and welded up a new one and now the timing is at 15 degrees BTDC on all four leads.
2nd issue was that one of the plugs had died. It had only done 220 miles. So replaced it and to sound great once again. All the plugs are very very black out if I lean her out any more she pings when on boost

[advinnie]

Hi all can anyone tell me what would an exhaust backfire when the engine is under load like had acceleration.
The engine will rev up to 5500 rpm when in neutral and will accelerate at a good pace in any gear from 1000 to 5500rpm but put your foot down to the floor and you get bang bang bang from the exhaust. She will still accelerate hard she just back fires.

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Mine does the same thing after 1 bar boost. I once heard that if using a big plug gap the boost can blow away the spark and to make the plug gap smaller.

[advinnie]

That makes sense will give it a go now and report in 15 ish minutes

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Light bulb moment. I'll bet my problem with the miss fire past 1 bar is the STOCK COIL along with the standard plug gap and or points bounce.
I'll re gap to .20 tomorrow. Fingers crossed.

[advinnie]

My problem has nothing to do with boost.
I have some more information on the issue.
Right it really doesn't matter what rpm you are at it seems to be that as soon as you try and accelerate hard the engine backfires first before accelerating. Once she is accelerating she is fine even at 8 psi boost. It just the moment you try to accelerate that she backfires first. It sound like the launch control is on witch it's not.
I'm about to remove the pointless ignition module in the distributor and refit the points and see what happens

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Bet that fixes it. Its what I had to do on mine.

[advinnie]

Points refitted and no more backfiring but the old problem of fluctuating timing, by that I mean set a fixed rpm and using a timing gun you can see the timing is all over the place, like at 3000 rpm my timing should be 30 degrees BTDC but is fluctuating between 26 to 33 degrees, with the pointless ignition module at 3000 rpm with the gun it's Rick solid at 30 degrees.

[advinnie]

Your driving your bug on a sketchy tune 330 miles?!?! You have balls!

It made it make 874 miles

[madmike]

Bad spark plug Leads/plug's, will make them Backfire

[Krochus]

Take it from me. Just buy the Megajolt and move on to the next problem.

My limited 009 ran okay or so I thought but right at the end it started misfiring under boost. Going edis not only fixed that but gave me 4 more mpg on the first few tuning sessions. Low rpm performance just driving normally is night and day better.

Factory ignition can be a stop gap but no matter what you do that stock coil and advance mechanism is going to be a bad compromise