1641 Turbo EFI Manx. 250Hp/337Nm Turbotub

[panel]

I think most lines are steel or copper nickle now a days.......no copper and no aluminum.

Replace them dude......

[rubenski]

Naaah, i dont see the problem.

Here in belgium, there are plans for a 5yearly inspection of oldtimers (+30yrs old)
So if i have to go trough that the linelock will have to be removed or it wont pass.

Anyways. Buggy is not being driven in winter time so it will get an yearly inspection.


Clone,

I kinda like the new shiftrod advice but cant justify the cost.
My friends father will do it for free, or for the cost of a few beers
I will have to wait a few days but hell, im going to fast trough my winter upgrades and the real winter still has to start.

I will be straightening the bracket today.

[Clonebug]

If you reset the shift rod you shouldn't have a problem.

I do recommend the adjustable end and the universal joint style connector because it makes adjusting the shifert oh so nice and easy and you never have any shifting problems.

[rubenski]

I dont really have problems shifting. The original problem with getting reverse sometimes was because of the missing shiftrod bushing.

Now i know how easy it is to take it out, i can always add a adjuster it i feel adjusting is a pita!


Thanks for the help and advice!

[panel]

Naaah, i dont see the problem.

There is a reason it's illegal here in Canada to not run copper I'll stop riding ya now.....

[petew]

So i finaly found something bad on this buggy...

I wanted to place a new shift rod bushing today.

When i took the shifter of and got the old grease off and slide the shift rod out there was no sign of the old bushing. Only the metal ring and a little plastic edge was left on the rod.

And i also noticed the rod was'nt welded properly when they shortend it, see below:

I realize you're feeling ticked off, but having a straight shift rod actually doesn't matter as long as the rod clears everything in the tunnel and works ok. Replace that bushing is a good idea though. Pleased to hear to fixed it up.

One day I'll tell you all the things I found wrong on my oval beetle. As a friend of mine says, "my anger keeps me warm at night".

[rubenski]

Yes but it is a problem to slide the rod trough the bushing.. the welds are so thick i couldnt slide it trough

[petew]

You don't need to slide it all the way through the bushing. You cut a split the bushing, wrap it around the shift rod and push it into place. I'm sort of surprised no one else suggested this. It's way we've all done it over here.

[rubenski]

But can you click the bushing in place when it is already on the rod? I tought it would damage the bushing at the edge...

Anyways, wont be a bad thing to have a properly welded shiftrod.

What else to do in winter-upgrade-time

[petew]

But can you click the bushing in place when it is already on the rod? I tought it would damage the bushing at the edge...

Totally. You're cutting the bush open so you can put around the rod. Like a split axle boot. Then the shift bracket inside the tunnel keep it round the rod.

[rubenski]

Hi,

Got the shiftrod back from my friends father.

He did an awesome job!

You cant even see it was shortened. Spotwelded and grinded back.

Petew, i tried the way you suggested but that didnt work. Ended up putting the bushing in the bracket and then pushed the rod trough. After i greased it like crazy it just went trough with little effort.

Mounted the gene berg shifter and it is ooooh soooo smooth!! Cant wait to give it a testrun.
It never went in gears easier!

Now i'm waiting for the right hose that connects the brakefluid reservoir to main brake cylinder.

To be continued!

[rubenski]

Hi all!

So i finally got the correct hose for the brake fluid reservoir to the mastercylinder.

I then put the fuel tank back in and got the hood back down.

Next task is to connext alle the brackets that hold the hood down and then the windshield.








Greetz!

[rubenski]

So i finished the front with only bleeding the brakes left to do.

Moved over to the back with the reinforcement of the rear suspension.

I cut off all the brackets wich were welded when i bought it second hand.

Here i am atm:

Standing behind the engine, left side:








Right side:





So normaly the long tube has to go on the front side of the shock towers (rear seat side) but because i have 2 storage boxes there it has to be moved to the other side. (Engine side)

This is how it "should" be done



What do you guys think?

The hard cardeboard pieces will be made of iron if im sure its good.

[madmike]

That will do the job but those angle chunks of wood will catch fire when u weld
our 'Winter' starts Thursday up here

[rubenski]

Haha.

I expected a comment like that.

Thats why i will use ducttape to finish this job

I will try another layout on the 2 short rods and see if i tried every possible config!