1641 Turbo EFI Manx. 250Hp/337Nm Turbotub

[madmike]

Yes pull up

[rubenski]

Ok. Thx!

[rubenski]

Current mood

My buddy came back to help me bleed the brakes.

Did it by the rules and after 3 go rounds the left rear kept blowing bubbles...

And not one in the other 3 corners...

So wheel and drum off, a little moist but mostly dry brake dust inside.

Guess the brake pump is broke?
It is not leaking on the rubber boots on the pump.

[petew]

You know the trick about locking up the rear drums with the adjusters? I had constant woes bleeding my back drums until guys on the offroad forum taught me this. You tighten the adjusters hard up against the drums and then pulling the handbrake on. Only once that's done do you start bleeding them. Otherwise, there are lots of little corners in the wheel cylinder for the air to hide in exactly like you're describing.

BTW, if that doesn't fix it, don't buy a new master cylinder. Have your current one re-sleaved. The new ones are rubbish. Even if they say "ATE Germany", they're still made in Brazil and junk. I have a spare used one waiting for a re-sleaved in case my current one mucks up.

[rubenski]

Pete do you mean the cilinder in the drum or at the pedal?

[petew]

Master cylinder = at the pedal
Wheel (or slave) cylinder = inside the drum

Also, look at your rubber hoses. They're the first thing to cause trouble. If you've got plenty of pressure in the system, but you keep getting air change the rubber lines first. That's good insurance anyway.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Master cylinder = at the pedal
Wheel (or slave) cylinder = inside the drum

Also, look at your rubber hoses. They're the first thing to cause trouble. If you've got plenty of pressure in the system, but you keep getting air change the rubber lines first. That's good insurance anyway.

All good points Pete. The rubber in the soft lines are not insulated like the shoes are so they hang down into the muck and mire off the road so they can get hardened up/stiff and crack.

Lee

[rubenski]

I cleaned the inside of the drum yesterday, i will mount everything back today and try the offroad method Pete suggested.

If i still got air i'll start replacing lines and parts.

I'm ruling out the master because all other 3 lines bleed without a bubble. So the problem has to be in the section from the T-splitter to the drum.

[Clonebug]

Jack the back end up so it is higher than the MC. Sometimes that can be an issue too.

[rubenski]

Yup, I got that advice today too.

I put it all back together and hoping i can find a friend to push the pedal again tonight.

[rubenski]

Oh and i got pointed out too that the line hanging off the bleeding nipple has to be submerged in brake fluid.

Could also been a problem.

[Clonebug]

I never put a hose on the brake bleeder............except to keep the fluid from blowing all over the place. I don't submerge it.

[rubenski]

Dont you always have to put a clear line ont the bleed valve? Isnt that the only way to see if there are any air pockets in it?

Cant imagine the mess without a hose attached to it.

[Clonebug]

I have done it with a hose and without....without a hose I just crack the nipple a tiny bit to let the air out.

I usually just put a short piece of hose on it to point it down to get the fluid to aim for the baking pan I use for a fluid catcher. It's nice and wide and I can just point a hose in the general direction.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If you are going from the bleed to a container using a clear hose the hose end should be submerged. One of the reasons is incase the pedal pressure softens during bleeding, before the valve is fully closed, to insure that there is no syphoning of air back into the slave cylinder. Depending on who I was working with and how we communicated I don't remember using a hose very many times (it can be messy though).