How to tune Water Injection

[GARRICK.CLARK]

Yes,I can see that now. Ok' I'll give it a go. The nozzles are devils own DO1's. I sized them up to the cc size of an individual cylinder. Which is 477.75 cc per pot n piston.

[Clonebug]

D01’s are 1.0 gph flow. Four of them are enough for almost 300 hp if not more.
When I checked mine they flowed more than what Devils own said they would.
You might want to look for some 0.5 or 0.75 gph nozzles instead..
Too much water will make the engine blubber on anything less than full throttle.
Setting them up in a staged system would be better but is tough to do with an ITB setup.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi . I'm back on this subject. I'm finding it hard to find a good solenoid for the right price. The one clone showed me is only available over sea's .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

SO. I've found a snow performance solenoid in the UK.
Got a few question.
1st is can I fit the 4 PORT adaptor anywhere, like behind the back seat were the pump is. ( Neat install )
Also can I fit the solenoid in the same area. ( less wiring )
Some people say they need a relay fitted. My AEM kit has a separate wire to trigger the solenoid. So I'm thinking link the solenoid to that wire and jobs done.
Thinking pipe lengths might be an issue

[Dan Dryden]

I’m a little confused by the conflicting information given about water meth injection.... I’ve read that it is better to position the spray nozzle(s) under the throttle plates, as far upstream as possible from the valves to allow for it to mix and cool the intake charge.....
Yet the latest thing from these WI companies seems to be allowing for a spray nozzle to each cylinder (which would typically, on a VW engine at least, need to be positioned very close to the valves.
What’s the best method?

[andy198712]

Up stream gives it time to absorb some of that heat but also for your sensor to see the cooled air (depends where your sensor is) so you can monitor and tune and adjust for the new cooler temps.....
Is my thoughts

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I have my nozzles in the middle of the manifolds so hopefully its going to work. The AEM kit has a controller.0 to 15 psi, So if I want spray to come on at 10 psi boost I set the gauge to 10. BUT, the controllers are not accurate .The spray starts sooner, SO, I'm thinking of putting a carb jet in the boost feed pipe to the controller to limit the signal.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

So got the normally closed solenoid today so on with the fitting.
With there being cylinders on either side of the engine, the water pipes to the manifolds are still going to be long as the meet the metering block, before the metering block will be the solenoid. I'm not convinced the vac wont pull the water that's in the pipes leading up to the solenoid.
What test can I do to convince myself it wont do it.

[Clonebug]

The solenoid should be as close to the nozzles as possible. Hopefully you bought a solenoid capable of staying closed with vacuum....some won't.
If you bought it from Snow it should be........emphasis on should.
My solenoids are mounted on the fan shroud with about 14 inches of line to the nozzles. I don't have any problems with sucking water out.
Even if it sucks the water out of those lines it isn't going to really make a difference since it will do it immediately after letting off the throttle during the high vacuum decel.
As long as it isn't sucking water out of the tank during normal driving. That is what the solenoid is for.

Just make sure you have it wired good...you don't want a failure during high boost....especially if the engine depends on it for detonation control.
I am always on the lookout listening for detonation.......no one drives my buggy at high boost without me in the passenger seat.......well....no one drives my buggy besides me anyways.....
That is why I have a switch on the dash to turn off high boost. It's a back up to keep from hurting something.

I wired mine about the same way as RB Racing did. I don't use a controller due to it being another failure point.
They use nozzles with built in check valves now but did use solenoids earlier.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html

I use Hobbes switches set at a certain psi for dependable spray control........not much to go wrong and it's served me well for over 5 years and 30,000 plus miles.

[Schweg]

I have my nozzles in the middle of the manifolds so hopefully its going to work. The AEM kit has a controller.0 to 15 psi, So if I want spray to come on at 10 psi boost I set the gauge to 10. BUT, the controllers are not accurate .The spray starts sooner, SO, I'm thinking of putting a carb jet in the boost feed pipe to the controller to limit the signal.

How inaccurate is it? I am guessing that it errors low and starts early?

I just pick one of those up and I am looking to get it in soon.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Well if I dial 10psi on the AEM dial the yellow water activation light comes on when the boost gauge is at 5psi.
I have now taken the boost signal that goes to the AEM controller from the BACK of the carb hat ,maybe that's a weaker signal area. not tested it yet .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Clone, Thanks for the input, I understand it better now. I have also got some semi see through water pipe, that with the green -30 fluid . I should hopefully be able to see the green fluid in the tube. If so I can test if its sucked the fluid out on the 1st run.
I'm also gunna get an intercooler made, I've seen the twin turbo ones ,this is the design I need..

1 Boost inlet at the top and 2 outlets. 1 at each bottom corner.

[Clonebug]

Oh...you'll know if it's sucking water.........

It will blubber and cough and generally run like crap if it's drawing water in at cruise.......that is when you have the highest vacuum.........
Also....your tank will empty pretty fast.
I can go over 700 miles on about 3 quarts of mix in normal everyday driving.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Don't the devils own nozzles have a basic 1 way check valve at the back of the nozzle. I have these ,1 in each manifold port, engine runs good and no idle issues, If the nozzles were flowing 2 way right now the idle would be bad wouldn't it.

[Clonebug]

My Devil's Own Nozzles do not have check valves.......from what I have read a check valve comes with it's own issues.
That's why I have the solenoids that I use. It takes the guess work and chance of failure out of the equation.

Any restriction in the flow.....like a check valve.... is time that the water is not getting to the engine. (I base this from the RB Racing website.....most of my info has come from reading their web site extensively.) They do use check valves now but they also have a pump that puts out 1000 psi.

Also...another thing to keep in mind......if you are running small nozzles like 1.0 gph or smaller....make sure!!!!....you run a very good filter to keep the nozzles from plugging.

I do have a filter between the tank and pump.

On a different note......I switched to the Devil's Own 300 psi pump this spring and I can't really say if I noticed that much difference. I haven't had any detonation so I guess that does say it's working.....was it worth the extra $150.00 to change it out??? That remains to be seen.