k03 Turbo EFI..... stock type 1 in a Fiberglass buggy.....

[TurbahRascal]

Indeed this is what i did... I did some interesting things though and now I'm having issues. To start with, I used Microsquirt, 89 jeep 4.0 injectors, edis 4 from an Escort with a neon coil. Throttle body, from an escort, adapted to stock intake, CB Performance fi end castings, K03 Ebay turbo sits very high with a short silicone charge pipe to T.B. I have cts,mat,map,and wideband 02. The cts is the cylinder head one from Thedubshop, the iat came off a Jeep 4.0 and the map is a 2 bar GM from a grand national. I am well aware that some of what i did could be done better, i followed Clonebug's thread and started with a blow thru solex. After making sure edis was dead on at 10 degrees, I tore it all off and went fuel injection. Now, my car runs, but my tach is erratic as heck and its causing my advance and fuel to go wacky too . With the car running, I found the ve table was way fat so i tinkered with that and found i could lean it out to get better results, but the rpm are still bouncing all over, at idle it goes from 1200 to 3000 on Tunerstudio, but the engine isnt......any clues? I have the pip and saw form the Edis module in shielded wire, as well as the vr sensor connected to the ground wire on the edis but nothing else, oh and the vr i'm using is the hidden job from Mario... and i do have a shortt log file, but im unsure of how to insert it here

[TurbahRascal]

Currently, all grounds are to the distributor hold down stud, with a 4 gauge ground cable off the back of the engine to the battery negative. I've gone ahead and grounded the pip/saw shield to the sensor ground from the micro module, we'll see if that helps after a bit. I'm kind of tired of starting it because I'm not sure how to help the erratic tuner studio tach. Also, it seems to lose connection to my laptop frequently. The car stays running, but tuner studio says off line.

[petew]

I remember somewhere reading about static/noise/dirty signal from the crank sensor. You run a capacitor in line to prevent it. Have you looked into this? Is the ECU getting an erratic signal from the EDIS? That's the first place I'd look.

BTW, love to see some pics too.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"Rascal", how did you wire your glass buggy? Is it a full length pan or shortened pan?

I do not use the pan/ chassis for grounds with the reasoning being... tired metal and the possibility of poor welding done in the past. If you have a stock length buggy then there is probably going to be less of a chance/problem with bad/dirty welds.

My ground goes from the battery post to a keyed disconnect switch then to one of the bolts between the engine and trans. Since my street buggy is now off-road I can now wire quite a bit differently as the requirements are much simpler now.

I do not use the woven strap type of ground wire like VW does with their two piece grounding method. Those woven ground straps breaking down have a long history of being a problem not only with VWs but with older American cars also.

I also now run (heat reset in my case) circuit breakers and buss bars for connections (again, my wiring is now very simple and buss bars can help make joins simpler).

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 3&t=127936 If you haven't seen this build in its entirety there is a lot to learn here: a turbo in a FG body.

Lee

[TurbahRascal]

I think most of my issue is coming from the edis sending a dirty signal to the ECU. At this point I've bypassed the edis module. Ripped it off completely. I'm fairly certain I can fire a DumB coil straight off the microsquirt so that's what I intend to do. I thinky issues primarily come from not using a Ford 36-1 setup. I'm using the dubshop hidden crank trigger which I think the edis didn't like. As for my grounds, there is a hole on the case between the trans and the fan shroud. I cleaned that up and ran everything to there. I have a ground cable off the rear shock......frame bracket. I hooked the VR sensor up to the ECU earlier tonight and cranked it. I do get signal but I have to verify it's clean enough. Once I do that I'm gonna fire straight off the Dodge coil. Should work I hope. I've got 14 days to get it drive able. Then it's off to Horsfall.

[TurbahRascal]

Oh and I must say, clonebug's build is kinda what got the gears turning. At first it was turbo a carb. Then it was electronic ignition turbo a carb. Then it was full efi turbo. All without completing any of the setups. Efi turbo must work. It must. Failure is not an option. I've got too much money and time in it to fail.

[Clonebug]

EFI turbo works great but it's not a bolt on.......you do have to put in the time.

There are many ways to set up a Megasquirt/Microsquirt system but if you use a mixed setup you usually end up having to be an Engineer.
Mario has done a lot of the hard work by testing stuff and making sure it works...plus he knows what the settings in Tunerstudio need to be.
I prefer to leave that stuff to him and fortunately almost all of my stuff has worked flawlessly right away.
Once there was a jumper positioned wrong but otherwise it's been a bolt on.
EDIS is a little touchy and expects It's own parts and signals. It does work really nice and the limp home feature is kind of cool..........but If the others never go bad then you don't need a fail safe either.
I haven't had any issues with any of my MS stuff in the 30,000 plus miles I've been using it. I don't even bother taking tools along anymore when I go on my weekend trips with the Wife in the buggy.

Concerning grounds......I ground nothing to the engine....All my grounds go to a central ground plate up front where the ECU is and then a big fat ground wire goes back in the harness to the transmission area and then is jumpered to the battery ground.
All the stuff on the engine needing grounds go to the same ground terminals on the trans and then get tied to the battery also.
The bottom lug on the terminal is the main ground...you can see the 8 gauge wire that comes from the front and then goes to the battery. Other grounds go there too.



All controls for W/I and Boost Control are also all ground based so a lot of the other wires are technically grounds too....It does get a little complicated.....
I have a 8 gauge ground jumper from the trans case to the trans mount on the frame horn to complete it.
I have a angle iron bar under the hood that I use for ground but that is also grounded to the main ground going to the back.

Here you can see the main power terminal and main ground terminal which goes to the back terminal and then to the battery.
From here the power goes to the main relay and also to the two fuse boxes.....one is always live and the other is powered by the ignition switch.



Here is the angle iron bar which holds all my crap under the hood.......fun isn't it......



I keep adding stuff every year and now it's due for a cleanup and getting rid of the jumpers that are on the terminals. It's amazing how much wire you end up with to run all the cool stuff that MS can do.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Again, my electrical needs are much less than CBs but I still recommend going to the block via a keyed shutoff switch to close the circuit during long storage and theft protection. As I have done more old school wiring updates plus having had a lot of experience with failing old style wiring and fighting with less than desirable "out of the factory" wiring. Grounding, especially at the engine which is so important, has always been a problem with old cars.

I do highly recommend the use of buss bars as you can wire them so many different ways and accomplish so many different things when and as needed.

[TurbahRascal]

I've read pretty much the whole safari squirt Clonebug thread, kinda what got this started, at this point I'm overwhelmed. I know stuff must be grounded relatively ok because when it did run all sensors work, it was just super nut-so tach, which i can only attribute to wrong vr sensor for Edis. at this point I think I need to not use Edis. So, what coil/igniter should i run with Mario's hidden crank setup? Any suggestions appreciated, I was thinking about trying the coil from a 2.5 Subaru circa 04 or so, it has a 4 pin input and a visible circuit board molded into the bottom, (so maybe built in igniter?) Napa part IC252. i can hook my hei style wires to it, if it would work. But my google-fu is falling short, i cant find definitive proof it will work, Its a 100 dollar bill if it doesn't..... I think the Volkswagen 4 tower coil from a 99 beetle would work too but id need new wires, because the coil side is a pin in the tower.... it looks weird. I could go cop if it would fit, but my j tubes come up high...and 4 coils plus four connectors is by far the most expensive option.

[TurbahRascal]

i have in-fact confirmed the ic252 has an internal igniter, and found the pin out diagram, I will go buy one in the am, wish me luck.

[TurbahRascal]

It works. 02 Subaru ej25 coil has built in ignitor and fires my engine. Except I'm backfiring. I have firing order at the coil of cylinder 1 and 3. And cylinder 2 and 4. Injectors are wired number 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 also. Does this make sense?

[TurbahRascal]

I think it's the injectors. If I'm getting fuel in the cylinder that's getting waste spark on the exhaust stroke......boom-- pop. Off to wire them differently

[TurbahRascal]

Update!!!!! Runs like a champ. So I ditched edis, went with Subaru coil ic252, with built in ignitor, had to reset the trigger wheel to match what microsquirt wants to see, but now it purrs like a kitteh, I'll try to figure out pics or vids soon. Now that it runs reasonably well I'm a bit less worried.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Whoo-hoo! Congrats on a fix and the now good running. Kind of takes the "pucker" out of things doesn't it.

Lee