Clutch Upgrade with 20lbs of boost

[kangaboy]

So after trying to reach my summer goal of 20lbs of boost, my clutch started slippin in my beetle at about 14lbs. Can I get some suggestions about what to go with? I'm pretty much keeping it a street car, but wouldn't mind getting more race oriented after a trans upgrade.
...and then there are the proverbial snowball effect things that come to mind...I only have a four dowel crank, stock trans, no additional frame horn bracing, yada, yada...
Lets start with the upgraded clutch for now.

EDIT: My commute consists of at least 20 minutes of stop and go traffic both ways.

[buguy]

What kind of hp are you making? It will matter if it is 110 or if it's 600!

[kangaboy]

Eh, it's a rough estimate, but I would guess around 200hp+ at ~20psi. I haven't dyno'd it, but I have punched some numbers into some of those HP calculators, and this is a conservative bet.
1776cc
5200rpm
20psi

[GARRICK.CLARK]

I use a stage 2 and a CB dual disc. Its a bit heavy on the street but doesn't slip, It did slip with a daikin disc, so DONT buy a daikin disc.

[petew]

Get a long clutch lever on at the same time. Makes it easier to push.

[Chip Birks]

What clutch do you currently have? Stg2 and copperhead would probably be a great combo.

[kangaboy]

What clutch do you currently have? Stg2 and copperhead would probably be a great combo.

oh...just a stock one

[petew]

Bahaha. That's hilarious.

Btw, is it possible to 8 dowel that crank without pulling the motor down?

[Chip Birks]

Bahaha. That's hilarious.

Btw, is it possible to 8 dowel that crank without pulling the motor down?

Yes, or so I've heard. just gotta buy the jig to do it.

[kangaboy]

What clutch do you currently have? Stg2 and copperhead would probably be a great combo.

So is the dual friction disc that CB sells the same as the copperhead? Saw another thread that suggested it was. I only ask cause I have been shopping with CB for a while now and wouldn't mind going through them again. If not, I can go the AirCooled.net route.
Also, is it assumed the Kennedy Stage 1 PP is boarder line for my power? Don't care to grab the stage 2, but just wondering where the difference will be noticed on the drivers end. I'll feel it on the clutch pedal throw, correct?

And as far as 8 doweling the crank...the snowball effect comes into play again. Should I 8 dowel my crank and flywheel while doing the clutch change? should I just take the crank out and put a C/W crank in? then I need to take my heads off and get better valve springs...and then pushrods? or do I just torque the gland nut to 350ft/lbs with red Loctite and call it a day?

[risk]

No problem 8 doweling with the engine together.. I have done this, but you need a big heavy drill press to do it right. I doubt you will get a good dowel fit using a hand drill.

x2 on the copperhead and stage 2 pp. I ran that combo and loved it.

Be careful with using a longer clutch arm, you may not get enough engagement depending on your setup.

[buguy]

I wouldn't do it. By the time you buy the jig, drill bit, and reamer, you could damn near buy a cw crank.

[rubenski]

No problem 8 doweling with the engine together.. I have done this, but you need a big heavy drill press to do it right. I doubt you will get a good dowel fit using a hand drill.

x2 on the copperhead and stage 2 pp. I ran that combo and loved it.

Be careful with using a longer clutch arm, you may not get enough engagement depending on your setup.

Is the copperhead you talk about a 4 puck?

[risk]

Here you go:

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Copperhea ... erhead.htm

[gbaker770]

The copperheads that Art was making I'm pretty sure are different. I believe those are long gone, and from what I heard they worked good too.
A stage 1 properly setup will hold anything at your current power level. I'd try something like a Daiken/Kush-Loc or similar. Stay away from the heavy sintered iron discs like the BM, they will kill syncros.