Hello....I have a Sterling which has a cowl roof top that opens for getting in/out. I am planning on converting it to some type of auto system with a keyless remote entry. (Push a button..top opens..Push another button..top closes) The eletronics are no problem but I'm trying to decide on the type of mechanical system that I want to use. My three choices are:
1...Electric servo...Not feasable for my requirements.
2...Hydraulic with a 12 volt pump
3...Air pneumatic
I'm leaning towards the pneumatic system for several reasons..Plumbing and cost. My design (so far!) will use two slim 3' long pressure tanks made out of schedule 80 pvc slid into the inner body cavities on both sides. An on-board air compressor with a pressure switch will keep them full.
Activation will be by an air toggle and an air solenoid. The solenoid will be operated via the keyless entry system and the air toggle will be from inside the car. (An air toggle looks like a normal toggle switch but controls air pressure instead of electricity)
The power rams are modified gas/hydraulic lift assemblies. I've taken two old ones, cut the bottoms off, machined steel link assemblies with built in air fittings and welded them back in to the tubes. The pistons had the bypass holes welded shut. 100 psi delivers a decent amount of lift.
The roof cowl currently has two gas/hydraulic lifters now..one per side. I would replace these with heavy duty ones that almost but not quite lift the roof on their own. The two modified ones would be installed along side the "normal" ones.
Air pressure would be delivered thru a bleeder with a regulator to prevent launching the roof across the yard. The added lift would be enough to raise the roof.
Closing would be done with the same system but with the air rams isolated from the pressure and instead linked to the engines vacuum. (Pressure the ram pistons up and suck them back down)
Any thoughts? Ideas? Any one done this? Pro's and con's?
Thanks, Mac.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
www.shootiniron.com[/url]
Sterling roof lift system?
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- Posts: 484
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:17 pm
Hi Mac,
Several discussions on this variant can be found at the Nova International site. Personally, I can't see complicating the mechanism with extra parts. Either go all pneumatic or all hydraulic. Combining systems is somewhat risky due to the fact that you are doubling the amount of plumbing that can go bad and if one system fails, there may not be a way out of the car (or in).
The problem with pneumatics is one you stated - rapid lift and deceleration. Too fast, and you'll crack the canopy mounts and windshield. I've yet to see a slow bleed system for air power that's reliable.
Hydraulics has it's issues as well, but I feel it's more reliable, and you can buy the components for as cheaply as good pneumatics if you search for them. I can provide the motor/pump numbers if you want.
The final option is no system at all, just the giant garage springs and lift arms like you would find at an autoparts store. But since you want to make the canopy remotely operated, that's out of the question.
But, these cars are ripe for custom stuff. If you can figure out the air powered system, I'm sure others will follow!
Rick
Several discussions on this variant can be found at the Nova International site. Personally, I can't see complicating the mechanism with extra parts. Either go all pneumatic or all hydraulic. Combining systems is somewhat risky due to the fact that you are doubling the amount of plumbing that can go bad and if one system fails, there may not be a way out of the car (or in).
The problem with pneumatics is one you stated - rapid lift and deceleration. Too fast, and you'll crack the canopy mounts and windshield. I've yet to see a slow bleed system for air power that's reliable.
Hydraulics has it's issues as well, but I feel it's more reliable, and you can buy the components for as cheaply as good pneumatics if you search for them. I can provide the motor/pump numbers if you want.
The final option is no system at all, just the giant garage springs and lift arms like you would find at an autoparts store. But since you want to make the canopy remotely operated, that's out of the question.
But, these cars are ripe for custom stuff. If you can figure out the air powered system, I'm sure others will follow!
Rick
- Kubel Nick
- Posts: 1770
- Joined: Sat Jun 29, 2002 12:01 am
I'm considering on installing one on my Sebring but our cars uses 2x electric motors to open the top so it's fairly easy for us, just hook up a remote controller, program it and we're done. So maybe convert your hydraulics to a Sebring style electric motor?
How does Sterling doors open, with a turn of the key electrically or can it be opened/closes with no electrical current? Programmable remotes usually has 4 functions (give or take), can program 1 function to open and another to close as long as the top is controlled with an electric current. One thing you'd have to look for is does the current close only when you press the button or does it stay close for a few seconds from it's programming...
How does Sterling doors open, with a turn of the key electrically or can it be opened/closes with no electrical current? Programmable remotes usually has 4 functions (give or take), can program 1 function to open and another to close as long as the top is controlled with an electric current. One thing you'd have to look for is does the current close only when you press the button or does it stay close for a few seconds from it's programming...
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- Posts: 88
- Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 12:01 am
my 2 cents...
I used the hydraulics from a chrysler lebaron convertible top. This system had a couple of issues. First, the oring in the motor unit liked to blow out. I used a large hose clamp to keep it retained. Second, because of the weight of the top it liked to bleed down from the up postion. I eventually used two solenoids to keep if raise. Benefis were that it cost all of a hundred dollars to make the whole thing work. The lines were plastic that was available through my local NAPA retailer and it used compression fittings. I mounted the motor up front and wired it to a on/off/on toggle in the car and a on/off/on spring to the center position keyed switch outside the car. If I had to do it all again...I would go with the linear actuators from one of the many companies that sell them. They are pretty much bulletproof and one can lift 250lbs. They may need some tweaking of the body to fit, but they are so much more dependable. Costs are coming down on them and the roof is not something you want failing on you....
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:24 am
Hello!
I used to have an air top on my Sterling, but always seemed to be replacing the compressor. The top was fast to open, though, and when it closed, it was very impressive. (The top would 'hang' for a second, then drop very fast, stopping just before it hit the body, then gently closed.) This would cause quite a few squeals from my passengers
There was an airtank mounted just under the gas tank, and held 100psi. It was replenished by an air compressor, that would sense when the pressure was low, and run until the pressure was back up.
This worked fine for many years, but I got tired of replacing the compressors. I went to a hydralic system, and like it much better. Even though I have to hold the button while the top raises and lowers, I now can pause it halfway down if I want. This is great in the summer when you want a little air, but dont want the top all the way up. (I got a ticket for that, BTW)
The hydralic system I went with was made specifically for Sterlings, by Precision Hydralic Systems in So. California. (sorry but I have lost their contact info)
Maybe the compressor quality has gotten better since I had my air top, but I really like the hydralic one... Good luck with whichever one you choose!
I used to have an air top on my Sterling, but always seemed to be replacing the compressor. The top was fast to open, though, and when it closed, it was very impressive. (The top would 'hang' for a second, then drop very fast, stopping just before it hit the body, then gently closed.) This would cause quite a few squeals from my passengers
There was an airtank mounted just under the gas tank, and held 100psi. It was replenished by an air compressor, that would sense when the pressure was low, and run until the pressure was back up.
This worked fine for many years, but I got tired of replacing the compressors. I went to a hydralic system, and like it much better. Even though I have to hold the button while the top raises and lowers, I now can pause it halfway down if I want. This is great in the summer when you want a little air, but dont want the top all the way up. (I got a ticket for that, BTW)
The hydralic system I went with was made specifically for Sterlings, by Precision Hydralic Systems in So. California. (sorry but I have lost their contact info)
Maybe the compressor quality has gotten better since I had my air top, but I really like the hydralic one... Good luck with whichever one you choose!
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- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 9:42 am
hydro top
On my first stirling it used convertable top motors---always leaking and plenty of lines, and the motors were expensive. changed to a chevy starterpump like the lowrider crowd used+++ awsome! one line to each cyl, would lift and lower as fast as you wanted. It was power up and gravity down, the bleed valve on the pump even had an adjustment screw for summer and winter a definate plus, and all the parts were aviable at any hydrolics supplier or farm supply, or truck dealer. same thing as use on a lift gate. the whole system cost less than 500. It is easy used with a wireless remote. Noted J.C. witney has door lock remote systems for 39.00 today, add a relay and your in business!