Nice job on removing the plugs.
two of the taps came covered with a thick, waxy coating presumably to protect them from rust and physical damage. How does this stuff come off??? Mineral spirits or kerosene doesn't seem to touch it...
This stuff usually
just peels off like a bannana peel. Take a knife and cut it from the shank to the cutting tip in one of the "gullets" of the tap, (there's probably 4 of them). After that it should peel off.
Next, seeing as what I have are taper taps, does this mean that I have to drill into the oil passage the same depth as the length of the threaded portion of the tap?
No. The tip of the tap is smaller than the hole you will be drilling so it will, likely, not cut much of a thread. Standard practice is to drill 3x the tap diameter depth. For example, 3/8" deep for an 1/8NPT, 3/4 for a 1/4NPT, and so on. The good news here is that if you drill a little too deep, it usually doesn't hurt anything since it's just a fluid passage anyway. NPT taps are "full form" taps in that they cut the complete thread profile, unlike straight cut taps that cut only the thread major diameter, the pitch diameter, and not the minor diameter, (which is cut be the drill). This is why NPT taps need so much torque and can crack thin web bosses, especially on the bigger taps, (which is why I recommended the tapered reamers for these larger sizes).
The threads won't be fully formed until the tap is all the way into the case, right?
You will NOT be cutting to the full depth of the tap most likely. Tap until you have a few threads and check your plug. Tap a little deeper until the plug starts. Remove the plug and go a little deeper. re-check until you get the plug to be flush, (without sealing compound). Remove the plug, dope it up, and tighten it down. You'll get a feel for the depth after the first few holes.
_________________ Devastator's Build Thread
MS2Extra EFI W/spark
T3 Turbo making 10 lbs boost
"If everything seems under control, you're just not
going fast enough."