I doubt that combination will ever see 5800, it'll be all done by 4500 or so. Doesn't really warrant a CW crankshaft if you'll be keeping it below ~5000, but if you go ahead with one you'll want to lighten the flywheel a bit to compensate for the added inertia...not necessarily to the ubiquitous 12-lb weight, but perhaps ~15 lbs. The influx of Chinese new cranks has sort of pushed the old-school cranks that were made by welding counterweights to an original German forging off the market but they're still available from a few sources and would be my first choice, but for an engine this mild anything
except a cast crank should be fine.
Note that as a rule any CW crank you buy is going to come drilled for 8 dowel pins, using the SPG pattern where one is slightly offset for indexing purposes. It's challenging to do a proper job of matching a flywheel to an already-8-dowelled crank (simply using an SPG drilling guide doesn't guarantee perfect alignment, the only way to be sure is to drill them both together and then ream to the correct interference fit) but again, your combo won't be putting severely high stresses on the junction so perfection's not really mandatory. Use an oversize washer under the gland nut and an undercut nut if you can find one (Berg used to sell the GB202 modified stock nut but nowadays only offers CrMo @ ~$50, overkill IMO for this build). A $16 Chinese one from AA Performance Products would be fine. They sell cranks too; I haven't used one of theirs but haven't heard any negative reports about them FWIW. Always check the clearance between the head of the gland nut and the center of the clutch disc since a thicker washer and/or a flywheel that's been resurfaced a lot both reduce that - once the disc wears it can contact the glandnut, preventing clean release.
With stock 1.1:1 rockers that cam should be fine with good stock springs (I'd put a .030" shim under each to stop them from chewing into the head). If you wanted to step up to 1.25 rockers some cheap HD singles would be wise IMO. For just about any engine that's expected to be thrashed upon, even a near-stock one, it's a good idea to go to a "solid" rockershaft setup to eliminate the liabilities of the stock wavy washers & springclips - I'd add that to your list. Stock pushrods and valve adjusting screws will do with the 1.1s (.387" lift); for the 1.25s you're at .440" and getting close to needing HD pushrods and swivelfoot adjusters...that may not be justifiable budget-wise for the small power gain offered.
Never been a fan of either the sand seal (other than for off-road use) or the filter-pump. The pump's better than having no filter at all, but typically they come with gears quite a bit longer than necessary resulting in oil pressure high enough to open the cooler bypass in normal driving - you may need to install a stiffer spring and/or run lighter oil than you would with an old-school legit fullflow setup based upon a stock sized pump. Also, be sure it's going to clear with your chosen exhaust system. It's cousin, the in-n-out pump, has fittings to connect hoses to a remotely-located filter...if you're willing to accept the potential liability of the added plumbing, IMO you should just go ahead and do a classic full-flow setup. There's also an aftermarket fitting which goes in place of the rear pressure control valve for the return line if you're leery of drilling & tapping the case for it - those work but eliminate the control valve so warmup can take a little longer (I wouldn't go that way in a cool-weather location).
You really don't need the straight-cut timing gears; even with HD single valve springs, just using cam bearings with double thrust shells would be enough to control the endthrust generated by stock gears. But they'll do no harm if you like the noise.
Another suggestion - again for an AA product...I swear I'm not on their payroll
would be to have the heads flycut to the 98mm size used for late 90.5 and 92mm cylinders and get a set of AA's "thickwall slip-in" 88mm pistons/cylinders. No machinework needed to the case and you get 1679cc, still within the limitations of the stock carburetor but enough bigger to feel the difference (can't really say that about slip-in 87s, and they have rather thin cylinderwalls).
