1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Thanks mate
I don't know what the fuel enrichment and plungers are lol I have never seen them, but it's probably what the problem is because I can't find anything else.
Work is a completely different thing.... I was working in community services and I spoke up about stuff that was wrong, and for my good deed I am shown the door. That's fine, is rather do the right thing than to go with the flow, but my confidence has taken a pretty big hit, and this mongrel car isn't helping lol
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I don't know what the fuel enrichment and plungers are lol I have never seen them, but it's probably what the problem is because I can't find anything else.
Work is a completely different thing.... I was working in community services and I spoke up about stuff that was wrong, and for my good deed I am shown the door. That's fine, is rather do the right thing than to go with the flow, but my confidence has taken a pretty big hit, and this mongrel car isn't helping lol
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- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 2:44 pm
Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Update!!
I just finished rebuilding my 40mm Webers and installed them. I start turning the motor over and it starts, but then the left carb starts flooding big time! So I take the top off and replace the needle and seat.
I give it another go, and it starts, and even at the initial settings, it's already running so much better! I get it warmed up, and set the idle mixture, and it's running beautiful! It was getting late so I've called it a day. Tomorrow I'll do the final adjustments.
Thank you to everyone who have shared their advice and support!!! I have really appreciated it!!!
I just finished rebuilding my 40mm Webers and installed them. I start turning the motor over and it starts, but then the left carb starts flooding big time! So I take the top off and replace the needle and seat.
I give it another go, and it starts, and even at the initial settings, it's already running so much better! I get it warmed up, and set the idle mixture, and it's running beautiful! It was getting late so I've called it a day. Tomorrow I'll do the final adjustments.
Thank you to everyone who have shared their advice and support!!! I have really appreciated it!!!
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- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:55 pm
Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
It's the choke assemblies, typically the cover is taken off and a blank off plate is attached. The pistons in the body stay there but if they move they will richen up the mixture causing flooding and black smoke
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Dood... congrats! On to the next problem
Lee
Lee
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
I blew 2 oil filters so the next problem happened pretty quickly lol
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- Posts: 405
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Oil control plungers sticking?
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
I checked them just before I fired it up the first time, but I think I'll be checking them again
What oil do you use in WA?
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What oil do you use in WA?
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Depends if I built the engine or not, typically a 15w40, for street engines, 5w30 for higher performance closer tolerance engines. I always recommend keeping an eye on new engine oil pressures and choose the weight accordingly
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
15w40 semi-synthetic is what I'm using at the moment. I just installed a new 26 mm pump and blew a Ryco filter!
I've ran 20w60 Penrite some time ago in the motor and had no issues, so I doubt it's the oil, though the old pump was in pretty poor condition.
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I've ran 20w60 Penrite some time ago in the motor and had no issues, so I doubt it's the oil, though the old pump was in pretty poor condition.
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
On a positive, I've almost finished connecting up my DIY Oil Catch Can!
I made it using PVC downpipe. For the hoses I used the stainless steel ones that they use under kitchen sinks. They handle high water pressure so they should cope with a little oil vapour!
I have a line coming from each tappet cover, and I'm going to connect a third line to where the fuel pump used to be. I still have to get a suitable connector. The catch can then runs to the top of each air filter.
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I made it using PVC downpipe. For the hoses I used the stainless steel ones that they use under kitchen sinks. They handle high water pressure so they should cope with a little oil vapour!
I have a line coming from each tappet cover, and I'm going to connect a third line to where the fuel pump used to be. I still have to get a suitable connector. The catch can then runs to the top of each air filter.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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- Posts: 135
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 2:44 pm
Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?
Update!
I now have the engine running beautiful!! I was blowing oil filters because when I bought new oil pressure and relief pistons and springs, rather than being supplied what I had ordered which was the standard kit, what I received were booster items. Once I finally realised the issue I went and bought a second hand set of standard springs and haven't had another issue since! The car is running sweet as!!!
Thank you everyone who shared their thoughts and provided some advice!
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
I now have the engine running beautiful!! I was blowing oil filters because when I bought new oil pressure and relief pistons and springs, rather than being supplied what I had ordered which was the standard kit, what I received were booster items. Once I finally realised the issue I went and bought a second hand set of standard springs and haven't had another issue since! The car is running sweet as!!!
Thank you everyone who shared their thoughts and provided some advice!
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk