Please help me fix my New case

[Mugs]

Hi had posted this over at the other site and thought I may get some sound advice here Thank you if you can help out
Hello long time lurker New member Well just going to put it out there I Me no one else not even help from some one else.... have butchered my new case
Let me tell you how I managed to do this then hopefully I can get some advice on how to proceed
Building a new type 1 motor. I have a new autolinea aluminum case. So I debur, smooth and port between the cylinders in the the interior pulled all oil galley plugs, drilled tapped them for NPT plugs ran wire brush through all oil galleys in case and crank. Make sure all tolerances are with in spec trial assemble several times get my deck height and end play sorted out. Pulled all perimeter case studs run tap through all threads Clean every thing as I go.
So now its time to final clean every thing and bag it for assembling the short block. I had pulled the 6-12 mm x 1.5 mm main case studs for easy cleaning Went to run a tap into the 6 main stud holes as all studs and holes had some sort of lock tight on them.
What I did was run a 12 mm by 1.75 tap into the holes [didnt put on glasses and taps were mixed up in my tap and die set] seemed to go very easy. I only noticed when I went to run the die over the studs Now I have my glasses on and notice I have the wrong tap out!!!!
So what I have done is passed a 12 x 1.75 tap through a 12 x 1.5 threaded holes Embarassed [ tired no glasses Tap in the wrong spot in set] I can make up all kinds of excuses but its done by yours truly Embarassed This was easier than you think I even tried putting the stud in the hole and didnt notice
So now I need opinions on how to correct this
searched around and can not find another instance of some one else trying to fix boogerd threads an main case studs. Am I the only dumb ass who has done this? Thing is i can get the studs in and they seem like they hold just a little loose at first. So i am thinking some of the threads are still intact.
Here is some of my thoughts
1 Your an Idiot
2 Found a product from locktight called thread restorer where you put a release agent on the bolt/stud then use a 2 part epoxy to build the threads up then remove the bolt/stud and let it cure.
3 Tap it over size to 13mm x 1.5 and get new studs. may have to have them made ? do notknow if this is possible yet as may interfere with 92 mm thick wall cylinders
4 Timesert and use same stud size ? I have never used this product and need to find out if there is a size and length that will work Also the studs are counter sunk and I have 1 set of shuffle pins on this case

Any ideas guys I have a junk case that i can do some testing/trials on I was thinking maybe maybe recreate the condition on the junk case try the locktite product. Torgue it up. Then try to figure out the torque that will be on the stud /hole threads after the case has heated up. Then torque it up to that figure or till pull out and destruction. Any idea how much torque will be on the studs/threaded holes after heat up and expansion ? I have a glimmering hope this may work as I think a lot of the threads are still intact. Could even skip the release agent and make the studs permanent
Any thoughts on this or another plan of attack good or bad
Thanks if you can help or contribute This truly just makes me sick and need to try and get past this screw up
Here is the link to my thread at the other site
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... 14#8836114

[ONEBADBUG]

Why not just drill and tap it for 1/2"-16 or 20?

[Phil69]

The cheap option (if you can screw the studs back into where they came from) is to use Loctite stud lock.
Put the crank and bearings into the case and torque the 6 nuts.
If the studs don't pull you maybe okay.
The expensive option is to take your case to a machine shop and have the stud holes helicoiled.
You will also need to machine the case for shuffle pins as the counter bore for the stud seals might now be too big.
I'm currently in a dilemma myself I've home brewed an oil pump cover for full flow and may have sheared the drive key in the end of the cam gear as I'm cranking the thing and not getting any oil pressure.
I didn't have the money for a normal full flow pump cover but may end up having to shell out for a new pump.

[Bruce2]

1) Take a Sharpie and write the tap size on the tap. Then you don't need a magnifying glass to see the crappy etching they all use.

Loctite Form-a-Thread will not work, don't waste your time.

Drill and tap it to M14x1.5, then get some case saver inserts with that OD thread. Give them to a machinist to have them drilled and tapped up to M12x1.5.