i have a 1641cc with a 110 engle cam, i have stock heads and a solex carb,
i just want to take full advantage of the cam, my mechanic said big valve heads would do wonders for me......
what else you guys suggest i do to make decent Daily driver power, as far as heads and carburation,
thanks
engle 110, and Big valves?
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Guest
A 1641 will run great and last forever with 110 cam, stock heads a set of
Kadrons and a nice 1 3/8 extrator exhaust. Do not waist your money
on big valve heads unless you want to build a big motor with big carbs
and big exhaust. I build a lot of 2007, 2110 and 2276 engines that get
a lot of good from big valve heads and porting but it cost several
thousand dollars to put the entire package together.
Kadrons and a nice 1 3/8 extrator exhaust. Do not waist your money
on big valve heads unless you want to build a big motor with big carbs
and big exhaust. I build a lot of 2007, 2110 and 2276 engines that get
a lot of good from big valve heads and porting but it cost several
thousand dollars to put the entire package together.
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1970beetle
- Posts: 947
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2003 1:32 pm
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Searoy
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2001 12:01 am
On stock heads, the stock valves outflow the stock ports. Big valves are easy money, so almost everyone who sells heads offer a "stock head with big valves" and makes money from them. But they really don't help squat. Well, they'll do wonders all right, make you wonder what they are doing for you. Porting is real work, and most don't know how to do a proper job, so they avoid screwing up a perfectly good set of heads just to make a few bucks when most folks will just say, "Yeah, big valves, that's the ticket." It's a lie.
A good set of ported heads with stock sized valves (not stock valves, stock sized) will be an amazing power getter and not adversely affect your fuel economy or low end power. What they will do is wake up your top end and make more power everywhere.
Don't get the big valve heads. At most, get Stage 3 041 heads from DRD, AJ or Headflowmasters. That's a real port job, round ports, with 37.5x35.5 stainless valves, usually HD single springs and upgraded studs, retainers and locks, plus a great valve job which can make all the difference all by itself. Good heads are a great investment in power. With those you can build everything up to a mild 1915 and have awesome low RPM power where you can use it, and a reliable, efficient engine too.
Progressive carbs are a pain to tune right, but when you do they are great "set and forget" carbs. I ran one, and I would again on the street, on anything up to a mild 1915 (I see a pattern forming). In fact most folks use them on too small of engine. 1776 should be the minimum, and they can be useful on anything up to about 2.0L. They might not be the most powerful, but they can be very streetable, and better than a smaller carb. They're easier to tune on bigger engines. Make sure you use the heat risers properly or it'll never tune. You'll want a SVDA vaccum advance distributor too for excellent fuel economy and off-idle response. Trust me. It's a great combo. Add a CDI and Petronix and it'll be about as reliable as a modern car.
Run a small header through stock heaterboxes, 1 3/8" merged, not the EMPI crap. Just make sure everything is clean inside and out.
Lets see.
Intake - Progressive carb and CLEAN stock end castings.
Ignition - SVDA, Petronix, CDI
Heads - 37.5x35.5 Stage 3
Exhaust - 1 3/8" merged through heaterboxes, choose a single 2.5" muffler
Pistons? Man, I hate 87s. I say go 94s and never look back. They'll last at least as long as 87s, probably longer, and make WAY more power.
A good set of ported heads with stock sized valves (not stock valves, stock sized) will be an amazing power getter and not adversely affect your fuel economy or low end power. What they will do is wake up your top end and make more power everywhere.
Don't get the big valve heads. At most, get Stage 3 041 heads from DRD, AJ or Headflowmasters. That's a real port job, round ports, with 37.5x35.5 stainless valves, usually HD single springs and upgraded studs, retainers and locks, plus a great valve job which can make all the difference all by itself. Good heads are a great investment in power. With those you can build everything up to a mild 1915 and have awesome low RPM power where you can use it, and a reliable, efficient engine too.
Progressive carbs are a pain to tune right, but when you do they are great "set and forget" carbs. I ran one, and I would again on the street, on anything up to a mild 1915 (I see a pattern forming). In fact most folks use them on too small of engine. 1776 should be the minimum, and they can be useful on anything up to about 2.0L. They might not be the most powerful, but they can be very streetable, and better than a smaller carb. They're easier to tune on bigger engines. Make sure you use the heat risers properly or it'll never tune. You'll want a SVDA vaccum advance distributor too for excellent fuel economy and off-idle response. Trust me. It's a great combo. Add a CDI and Petronix and it'll be about as reliable as a modern car.
Run a small header through stock heaterboxes, 1 3/8" merged, not the EMPI crap. Just make sure everything is clean inside and out.
Lets see.
Intake - Progressive carb and CLEAN stock end castings.
Ignition - SVDA, Petronix, CDI
Heads - 37.5x35.5 Stage 3
Exhaust - 1 3/8" merged through heaterboxes, choose a single 2.5" muffler
Pistons? Man, I hate 87s. I say go 94s and never look back. They'll last at least as long as 87s, probably longer, and make WAY more power.
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VW70pimp
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sat Dec 20, 2003 4:43 pm
i know im not going to get alot of power out of This engine,
but say i get my heads ported by Aj, cause hes right down the street from me, and i get a set of kadrons, or a progressive......
what kinda Hp, would i get??? just curious
mybe 90? with the 1641cc, 110 engle, stage3 stock heads by A.J, and a set of Kadrons??
thanks
but say i get my heads ported by Aj, cause hes right down the street from me, and i get a set of kadrons, or a progressive......
what kinda Hp, would i get??? just curious
mybe 90? with the 1641cc, 110 engle, stage3 stock heads by A.J, and a set of Kadrons??
thanks
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chazavw-its me
searoy is pointing you down the right path..... i would do exactly what he is saying.....
stock heads good port job..... maybe a step up on the valve sizes.... and a good progressive carb.... dual kadrons i think is just abit too much carb..... if you are going dual kads..... go with too much motor like 1914..... you can split the case very easily and get the machine work done fairly cheap......before you go with too much carb and waste $300....
i had a 1641 with en110 and stock dp heads and a stock 34 pict 3 carb.... ran alot better than stock but once i went to 1915 it was definetely mroe power..... i learned alot..... now i want to turbo.....
hp is like one of the best rushes you can get...... it gets addictive....once you get a taste of it you will want more.....
i have a 1915 going turbo and expecting about 10 psi and about 180+ hp and about the same torque...... if all goes well you can possibly go with over 20psi and you would have over 250+hp and the same amount of torque..... but there is alot to learn before you can get to that point.....
it is not unheard of to have over 300 hp and torque.... but you will need to upgrade the trans and drivetrain......
stock heads good port job..... maybe a step up on the valve sizes.... and a good progressive carb.... dual kadrons i think is just abit too much carb..... if you are going dual kads..... go with too much motor like 1914..... you can split the case very easily and get the machine work done fairly cheap......before you go with too much carb and waste $300....
i had a 1641 with en110 and stock dp heads and a stock 34 pict 3 carb.... ran alot better than stock but once i went to 1915 it was definetely mroe power..... i learned alot..... now i want to turbo.....
hp is like one of the best rushes you can get...... it gets addictive....once you get a taste of it you will want more.....
i have a 1915 going turbo and expecting about 10 psi and about 180+ hp and about the same torque...... if all goes well you can possibly go with over 20psi and you would have over 250+hp and the same amount of torque..... but there is alot to learn before you can get to that point.....
it is not unheard of to have over 300 hp and torque.... but you will need to upgrade the trans and drivetrain......
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James2
- Posts: 3148
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2001 12:01 am
Why are you saying this?1970beetle wrote:You'd lose bottem end torque. You def dont want big valves on a small engine.
You are 100% WRONG!!!!!!!
wrong! wrong! wrong!!!!!!!
I have a 1914 with 44X37 valves, STAGE 7 porting done by AJ Sims. The motor made over 100 ft lbs of torque from 3000 rpm -6000 rpm.
My motor made more torque then some so called torquer motors with long strokes and small heads.
Ya'll shouldn't be telling people crap unless you know it's true. and you ARE wrong!!!
POWER IS IN AIRFLOW!!!!!!!!
Now, if your talking a larger valve with a small port, you are right, it sucks. But a big valve with the right port will make more power and torque on anysize engine with the proper cam and carbs.
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1970beetle
- Posts: 947
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2003 1:32 pm
A simple wrong would have been good enough, also considering you already said I was wrong, what did you gather you balls or something?James2 wrote:Why are you saying this?1970beetle wrote:You'd lose bottem end torque. You def dont want big valves on a small engine.
You are 100% WRONG!!!!!!!
wrong! wrong! wrong!!!!!!!
I have a 1914 with 44X37 valves, STAGE 7 porting done by AJ Sims. The motor made over 100 ft lbs of torque from 3000 rpm -6000 rpm.
My motor made more torque then some so called torquer motors with long strokes and small heads.
Ya'll shouldn't be telling people crap unless you know it's true. and you ARE wrong!!!
POWER IS IN AIRFLOW!!!!!!!!
Now, if your talking a larger valve with a small port, you are right, it sucks. But a big valve with the right port will make more power and torque on anysize engine with the proper cam and carbs.