Honest opinion Rustoleum

[twodogsbob]

I'm in the process of building a baja, nothing special just a sweet grocery runner..
Rest of the vehicle will be shot with automotive paint but, to save some dollars do you see a problem, if properly prepared, sanded, wax and grease removed, if I shoot Rustoleum primers and paints in the wheel wells, hood compartment, and engine compartment.. They will be shot with a gun and not rattle canned..
Thanks Bob

[MNAirHead]

Before going for this method... check into one of the industrial paints (zero rust, master series, POR etc).

Tim

[namelesswonder]

I would do higher quality for wheel wells and engine compartment, as those will be "exposed" to various elements, and your trunk area will not.

However prep work is key, so it could last well enough, but probably not as long as an industral paint.

[doc]

I've had very good luck with spray can rustoleum on undercarriage parts. As namelesswonder points out, good prep is key. Rustoleum is not as durable as the more expensive industrial encapsulators. If you hit it hard enough, it will chip. Never heard a complaint about POR15, but it's pricey.

Rustoleum will not be show car quality, but it will do a reasonable job. You gotta decide what results you want. Rustoleum is easy, cheap and available at every home center and hardware store.

Rustoleum painted brake parts


Let us know where you come out.

doc

[MNAirHead]

If you're still deciding, I can take pix of my Single Cab rear deck with brushed on Zero Rust...

My next car will have this for everything that's not in a "pretty" location

I actually use my single cab as a truck.. I've had to touch it up due to scratching etc.. is fairly simple to update.

Tim

[GodJockey]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 53&start=0

Here is a great test of alot of frequently used antirust products, the rustoleum does a great job even compared to the high priced products and mind you your car will never see these conditions.

[bugsterkafer]

Buy once, go the epoxy route

[hugging corners]

bump

[Daniel G]

I would just buy a can of Master Series myself..I have tried it and POR-15 and I like masterseries a lot better...

[MinamiKotaro]

Use Rustoleum for the entire car. Inexpensive, tough, durable, and looks great. I had people with paint jobs costing thousands of dollars complimenting my Rustoleum paint.

[Stray Catalyst]

Rustoleum sun-fades pretty quickly. I prepped and pained my previous DD with it, and while it looked okay, the paint faded enough in a single year that touch-up paint (from the same batch as the original paint) was noticeable at a glance from a few car-lengths away... and I was painting in sky blue, not a vivid or dark color.

[craigvwdude]

Rustoleum as Stray Catalyst pointed out, will fade pretty fast. It just doesn't have quality resins and have UV protection.
There's a reason it's cheap!

[bens collision]

If u want some cheap, durable paint for the under side, go to ur local farm supply store and look for some vansickle paint. Its an industial enamal and only runs about $25 / gal in our area

[crvc]

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j47/k ... G_3180.jpg

I needed to go cheap and went to the local Napa to check prices on a case of Rustoleum. They said their two-stage paint would be less and would last a lot longer than rustoleum. Once I started working with the Napa brand paint I found how tough it is. I did this three years ago. Now and then I patch chips with an identical color Rustoleum.

kevin

[Piledriver]

For areas where finish quality is unimportant (trunk, underside/under fenders) but durability is key, don't forget truck bed liner.

I haven't met a rustoleum product that can take any chemical contact.
Fuel/brake cleaner/brake fluid gets on it--~antyhing, it's done.

It's a shame it can look so good when you do all the prep, but it's the same prep effort for a decent paint that will last, and the PAINT cost difference is really not that huge for most paints.

Having to strip it all off again to paint it properly is the worst part.