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http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u63 ... 6d16a6.jpg

I went through 1.5 cans of rustoleum to cover the top half of this engine lid. It's a close match on color but not perfect. Although I used a blanket there is spray all over the carpet around the blanket. Not sure how to get rustoleum overspray out of carpet. I plan to have the lid done right come spring.

kevin

What do you think of plastidip?
I was reading at dipyourcar.com about it.
anybody tried it?

I would look into the cheaper line of epoxy primers at your local body shop supply , even the cheapest no name epoxy primer is gonna be better than any rustoleum paint , remember epoxies are two part and will get hard and be tough ...

Because this topic comes up now and then I thought about painting my bug with rustoleum a couple years ago. I went to the local Napa asking how much for a case of red rustoleum. The owner suggested the Napa brand paint would hold up a lot better than rustoleum. A gallon of paint was under $100. A body shop was willing to spray the car for me for $50. It was two-stage paint and still looks good. But the two-stage while hard is also brittle so I've got several chips now.

kevin

I Plasti-Dipped a diaganol control arm just to see how it would fair...still no road miles on it though, interesting product with various applications.

My Uncle is a painter (not automotive though) and has done a lot of quick and dirty racecar paint jobs (they get beaten up pretty regularly with tires that extend outside the fender-work). He has always expressed his love for NAPA Martin Senour paint, although he has painted a couple of my cars with $20 a gallon Rustoleum - they both happen to be flat paint jobs...But one was wet-sanded to 600 and looked like a fair gloss black car on a wet day - which is to say most around here

I brush painted my Baja chassis with Rustoleum primer/paint about twelve years ago and it's still holding up pretty darn well.

Prep is still 99% of getting decent results with any paint, including Rustoleum.

I have tested it as a top coat on some junk I have around here (intentionally and unintentionally) and it does not like the Texas sun... At all.

For non-exposed chassis it's probably OK, but I've had ~as good results with the cheapest rattle can black for pan/suspension/engine tin stuff.

Note:~most rattle can paints are not fuel/brake fluid//cleaner resistant in any way, including rattle can caliper paint.
The ~only stuff that will hold up hard as nails and chemical resistant will be powder coat or 2 part.

Piledriver wrote:Prep is still 99% of getting decent results with any paint, including Rustoleum.

I have tested it as a top coat on some junk I have around here (intentionally and unintentionally) and it does not like the Texas sun... At all.

For non-exposed chassis it's probably OK, but I've had ~as good results with the cheapest rattle can black for pan/suspension/engine tin stuff.

Note:~most rattle can paints are not fuel/brake fluid//cleaner resistant in any way, including rattle can caliper paint.
The ~only stuff that will hold up hard as nails and chemical resistant will be powder coat or 2 part.

exactly !!

Powdercoat paints aren't even so simple...My buddy and I have gotten to work with our sponsor powder-coater and they've got special powders for UV resistant/high temp silicon we've had a chance to use, but they also chip/haze with time/chemicals. one of my last projects was an 1-1/4"x0.095" HREW tubing handrail - and the shop owner said jewelry worn on hands would get the best of it eventually. Here's a few various coatins on similar projects

Plasti-dip'd arm:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... B591CC.jpg
Rustoleum brush'd (caliper w/caliper paint from the FLAPS):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 140046.jpg
Rustoleum can:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 200002.jpg
Baked-on 1200* VHT header can:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 180034.jpg
Powdercoat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 230013.jpg
Silicon Powdercoat (before baking):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... coated.jpg
Loctite rubber undercoating:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 210027.jpg
prep:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 120008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/ ... 180001.jpg

I have POR-15'd a couple pans, and I don't think I'd bother to to do it again. I may bite the bullet and try the Masterseries CT, but I've got another pan/body that the PO had a bedliner spray laid-down - and it's pretty cool too - would've been cooler if they first had fixed the extra holes the bottom of the dash had collected over the years.

I am really beginning to like vht
Ive purchase 2 stage u-pol clear- they use them for guitar finish reviews say it is a though clear
"pile" texas sun- yes oil paint will fade, same any oil paint but it does not affect the durability of it.
Oil has those particles that keeps metal moisted with essentials, to prevent corrosion
Bottom like if you have to ask this question yourself- youre a noob and rusto is sufficient for you because your paint job will have flaws.
If youre pro you already know the answer!
ps: this is older doc i wrote posting now:

apokrandt wrote:

After I tried shooing zero rust my life changed.. no more powder coating.

Do you mean shooting as in spraying?

I take it you get good results?

Andrew

I would like to add some feedback. I really really like this product!
It sais it's ready to spray- nope for fine finish!
I added 5-10 percent acetone, but had little orange peel.
Usually my experiance with orange peel on laquer based it that it needs mineral spirits. I think acetone speeds up drying, vs. mineral spirits oils enhances flattening.
...so ive had little orange peel, but after adding another 5-10 per. of mineral spirits came out like this: look pic.
ps: It sprays as good as nothing i've ever sprayed
It flattens like oil- very nice
I used HVLP turbinaire. It started drying on the gun really hard.
.....I hate to clog the powdercoating info here with this note (thanx scott for introducing a oven room idea to my head,now its stuck and i am already planing on building one, which will be also used as a steel security door to my garage (4-piece)
..crazy idea ibut why not multitask)
I dont have a reference to long term durability, but flyer says that it will fade unless coated. Fading will not effect durability.
Its all good i like it even as a good base.;
Material shown on photo was ospho treated, red rusto primer, then white rust primer and zerorust 1 coat.
so far very good
OGvandal

It’s been a long time since I shot lacquer (mid to late 60's) but I think adding mineral spirits to lacquer slows down drying/setting time allowing over buildup of product which could be the cause of the orange peel look. Lacquer, as I remember requires a light or mist coat for the heavier coat(s) to stick to. Spraying too close can cause that also.

When I did some lettering and striping (heavy on the word some) on a couple of cars, we used Penetrol as a reducer to slow down drying speed of the “1 - Shot lettering enamel” allowing the enamel to flatten and to be worked longer on warm days.

Penetrol originally was a preservative for Cedar but it also works very well as a deck protectant for things like wooden trailer decks and house decks. Kind of expensive but then it last longer than other deck protectors so you either break even or are slightly ahead.

If you look it up you will find two products, one from Australia and one sold under the name “Flood” (company name) and they look to be similar products. It is the Flood brand that I am familiar with.

Lee

GREAT!!
good to know... it gets hot here a lot especially since i am tree sheed mechanic
I bought penetrol months ago but did not now about its application.
so that might be good for pinstriping as well
thanx man

"Bottom like if you have to ask this question yourself-youre a noob and rusto is sufficient for you because your paint job will have flaws. If youre pro you already know the answer!"
Man that's a pretty insulting rude comment if u ask me, unless I mistook it, you just said to the ol boy that started this thread that he's not going to do a descent job anyhow so he might as well use inferior product. Were all here ask questions and share our experience with each other because were all "noobs" at things at some time and ten years down the road that "noob" may turn out to be so good they end up famous, you never know. Like the old saying goes, no matter how big and bad you think you are, there's always someone bigger and badder. No matter what you think you know about paint or how good you think you are, there's always some one who knows more and is better than you

bens collision wrote:"Bottom like if you have to ask this question yourself-youre a noob and rusto is sufficient for you because your paint job will have flaws. If youre pro you already know the answer!"
Man that's a pretty insulting rude comment if u ask me, unless I mistook it, you just said to the ol boy that started this thread that he's not going to do a descent job anyhow so he might as well use inferior product. Were all here ask questions and share our experience with each other because were all "noobs" at things at some time and ten years down the road that "noob" may turn out to be so good they end up famous, you never know. Like the old saying goes, no matter how big and bad you think you are, there's always someone bigger and badder. No matter what you think you know about paint or how good you think you are, there's always some one who knows more and is better than you

nicely put ,theres no reason to look down at anyone

oh no sorry guys
i am noob myself that just went through the stage of learning everything on rusto....so many mistakes that it happened...i mean when do unskilled painted is looking at the things like humidity in the air etc. ...so therefore no catalyst on test tries for me.

I would be very mad on myself if i tried to shot 2 stage without spraying much before. For the fact i know that it would not come out.
Not to be rude (it might read like that, but its more like brotherly punch in the shoulder not to loose 100 bucks on paint that is difficult to rework backwards)

Overall wish good results!!

Well, I'm considering a rust oleum paint job on my Thing. My previous baja was a auto paint and after a couple desert runs in a pack the rock damage to the front left chips everywhere. Being metallic I never bothered trying to touch up. The new car is much faster and the big 33's throw rocks very well. The car is only outside for runs and sees very little street time. Currently I am so many colors and have raw aluminum fenders. I don't mind, but I think it attracted my recent CHP stop. Being one color I hope will let me blend into traffic better. I'll let you know how it goes. Gonna be a bit, as some cancer has to get welded up first.