Paint and supplies for the rail and how much.

[Leatherneck]

So I have taken all the paint off, added a body. Here is what I am getting. It has been awhile since I have painted it, any suggestions on quantity? Of course also have the arms, engine tin, tranny etc. to paint as well. In advance Thanks!

Mar-hyde Self etching primer.
Nason Select primer
Ful-thane base and mix
gallon of thinner.

[Leatherneck]

Getting a gallon of each. But who gives a flip.

[SCOTTRODS]

28 people care enough to read what you wrote..... I'm very interested in how you come out on this, if you don't mind the folks not replying so much.... I have no idea how much you would need.... I powder coat, but I don't paint. Powder is purchased by weight... anywhere from a few ounces to 55 lb boxes. I could probably get a close estimate on a weight of powder for you.... but I'd need measurements of all the pipes and panels (Length and width and diameters)... Again... let us know how it works out.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

As Scottrods said, a lot of people care but it is one of those questions that is hard to answer. Stuff like this usually ends up being more paint than you have on hand or you have way too much paint based on that you did not have enough paint last time. I laugh but it is a true statement.

I would suspect with reducers, thinners, primer, primer-surfacers, sealers and such, a gallon of color is going to go a long way especially if you are using a HVLP gun; not as much waste going into the air and painting everything else in the room. You said, I think, you were planning on several colors so that would reduce the base color amount unless you were putting on a base then tinting over it.

HF sells some inexpensive touch up HVLP guns (especially when they are on sale) which you probably want to use for the tubes at least. Touch up guns you will fill more often but they also let you get into tighter places than a regular gun will allow. Tubes are harder to shoot than flat panels and get good coverage all around the tube.

Anyway, I am sure you will do a good job on it. It is looking pretty good now and is going to look better.

Lee

[bens collision]

[quote="Leatherneck"]So I have taken all the paint off, added a body. Here is what I am getting. It has been awhile since I have painted it, any suggestions on quantity? Of course also have the arms, engine tin, tranny etc. to paint as well. In advance Thanks!

Mar-hyde Self etching primer.
Nason Select primer
Ful-thane base and mix
gallon of thinner.

Might be a little late but ill see if I can help any, first id try to find a direct to metal ( dtm ) primer so u can save some time and stress on ur shoulder by skipping a step and eliminating the etch primer. U said ful-thane base, ful-thane is a single stage urethane but since u said base I'm assuming ur spraying the buggy in base coat / clear coat? Not trying to correct u just making sure were on the same page. Nason base reduces 4:1 so if u buy a gallon of base u end up with 5 qts sprayable, depending on color and how u spray it can take 3 to 5 coats to cover, bad thing about buggy is you end up spraying half ur material into the air. Havin said that if u have the money for the second gallon id say get it, if u want to try to save some money get a gallon, paint just the chassy and see how much u have / need to finish the small parts. Most of the time on stuff like this I try to stick with a single stage urethane, its durable, cheaper than base clear and will have just as much gloss. Hope this helps some.

[hugging corners]

hey Leatherneck
In order to save quantity of paint i would suggest small sprayer because you are working 3-d tubing a lot, where with wide angle of full size sprayer there will be significant amount of overspray. I see that you might use hvlp. I have used it a little with house wall paint (did metal flakes looked trippy at evenings with some spot lighting) and also used spraying sound deadened as described in other threads.
Hvlp you can tune so it sprays only 4-5 inched from the object which will help, but it also sprays slower and warms up, so be careful that activator doesn’t start kicking in on your nozzle as you spray but before you go through the whole container of premix. Also if you will go in smaller amount of the paint each time you will loose a little as there is distance from pick up tube and container.
In you situation, and if you have compressor i would use smaller style of gun (like husky touch up gun -12 oz)
In college studied industrial design- model making and this style gun was standard for product design models (small car prototypes or electronics) We also used this guy on cardboard prototypes, to spray 50/50 water-joint compound to stiffen up the paper models- so it can push high viscosity.
Im not a painter at all so someone might correct, but that’s my 5Cent and good luck with another project
HxC

[Leatherneck]

Guys I really appreciate the input, I read them several times. Here is what I bought, gallon of each

To seal the bare metal.
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/vis ... 491-17.pdf

Using the 422-50
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/vis ... 5X_PDS.pdf

And for single stage
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/vis ... ethane.pdf
I might mix a little clear in the second coat to deepen it some. It is a metal flake.

I will be painting here in a little while. I have a small touch up gun like the one Hugging corners posted that holds maybe 4 ounces, might use that, will see how the Binks shoots too. Again thanks for the help. Will post how I did it and how it came out after I am done.

[mac2881994]

Good luck with the painting. I hope it turns out as good as you want it to.

How much did the paint and primers set you back?

[Leatherneck]

Good luck with the painting. I hope it turns out as good as you want it to.

How much did the paint and primers set you back?

All the supplies came up to $485.

Question for you guys. I have some areas I want to touch up, some areas I missed (next day) can I sand it down to primer and re prime and then finish coat?

[bens collision]

The spots you missed, did you get it all primed and just miss spots with paint? If so, most eurathanes can berepainted within 24 hrs without needing to be sanded. But looks like your post was longer ago than that. If you go to your paint supply store you can buy ' blender' in an arosal can, paint your missed spots and hit the fuzzy edge with the blender and it'll melt that fuzzy edge into the original paint. Or if you want to re shoot the whole thing, just sand the paint and shoot it, no need to sand it all the way to the primer.