BTW, both casing are corroded, the first very badly. I'm just trying to figure out if there is anything useful in there that I can keep. trying to put together a back axle for a 60' SC bus that's being converted to straight axle.
I got a reduction box tranny without any Digits the no`s are
4951660
What info is available on that one
Hi
Ok so far every trany I have stripped with only numbers with out digits
Have had 4.375R&P and 1.32 3de and .89 4th gear and almost 90% of the time it has the thinner syncro cone 1st gear that no syncros is available for
Basically the only spares I strip out of this tranny is the 3de and 4th coarse gears
Flagbuggy wrote:
... the only spares I strip out of this tranny is the 3de and 4th coarse gears
The steel cage idler gear bearings are much better than the plastic cage bearings in late gearboxes. You should save all those.
Also, the steel 4mm 1-2 shift fork should be saved.
I picked up an IRS trans that I was told had a 4.375 R&P. The code on the side of the trans does indicate via the list of trans codes I've seen allover the internet as a 4.375, BUT? that list also indicates that it would be bolted to a 1200 from chassis No 0 981 810. I'm sure it's IRS due to the fact that it has the input shaft "collar".
So what gives here??? is the motor&chassis number wrong. Or the gearing??? Only thing I am sure of is that it is IRS.
sixty9fasty wrote: I'm sure it's IRS due to the fact that it has the input shaft "collar".
The collar doesn't make it IRS. It just means the trans is 71 and later.
What is the trans code?
Whoops forgot that it's AA, and does have the IRS output shafts/flanges (although yes I am aware they can be swapped to swing and vise versa given its not SCC)
I can't remember, last time I saw one of those was 4 years ago and I didn't write the config down. At least one of them was a swing axle with a 4.37 R&P.
Kevin?
HOW TO TELL IF YOUR INPUT SHAFT IS MEANT FOR A T4 (1700/1800/2000 bus type motor) or a Type 1, (1600 etc bug/early bus motor)
The input shaft, or rear drive shaft, is longer on the T4 style motors as the needle bearing is in the crankshaft instead of the gland nut, so it needs to reach further. since it is easy and common to swap parts around, when you buy a trans its hard to be sure what it is really for. you can simply cut the end of a T4 style input shaft to make it work on a bug. The quick and easy way to tell what it is set up for is to measure the distance from the edge of the bell housing to the end of the shaft. Lay a straight edge across the bellhousing and measure from teh back of the straight edge to the end of the shaft. if it is setup for a T1 this length should be no more than 16mm or 5/8 an inch, T4 it should be 27 or 1 1/16 max
T1: 5/8 inch MAX
T4: 1 1/16 inch MAX
since there are no FAQs in this forum i figured I would just post this info here for quick reference.
give a man a watch and he'll allways know what time it is. give him two and he can never be sure again.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
