Do I have something wrong?

[brookester]

I have a built type one swing axle with 3.88 r&p and Weddle gears bolted to my 2332 turbo t1. It makes 250-275 lb ft of tq.
My question is recently I have noticed when I go from reverse to 1st it has a small clunk and also seems to have more slack and a small clunk when I'm going from to on throttle to off throttle. It drives good and goes through all gears fine.
I checked the rear axle nuts and trans mounts and everything is ok there.
Does anybody have any ideas based on this ? Something obvious I can check?

[Marc]

Is the shifter moving as you get on and off the throttle? You may have a sloppy front mount. I've found that urethane mounts typically have too much play between the steel tubes and the plastic, so no matter how tight you get the hardware there's still motion happening under torque loads. I just wrap duct tape (the real, metal-foil kind) around the tubes until they're a light press-fit into the bores in the plastic. But with the power you've got, I wouldn't expect any conventional mount to last very long unless you fit a strap kit...a mid-mount and/or rear hanger is definitely called for.

[brookester]

I should have mentioned that it's solid mounted, strapped and I have a Kafer bar.
Also, I am using a fairly new Kennedy stage II and a Daikin disc and a hydraulic clutch pedal.

[Marc]

Yeah, I suppose you should'a But the question remains, is the shifter moving? Could be that your clutch center's coming apart, but let's rule the external stuff out first. You said that changing directions aggravated the symptom, and the clutch doesn't care about that (it's going in the same direction regardless) so with that in mind it really sounds like a mount problem.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Some wild shots:

From first to reverse

Have you tried re-bleeding the hydraulic system?

Are all the bolts tight; e.g., like the 4 from inside the bell housing and the forward mount? I had the front solid mount flex problem once. It wasn't much but it was enough.

Did you put any loops or high and low bends in the clutch's hard line to shorten it up; air pockets have been known to form there. It is something I have seen done several times on brakes and other similar things which is why I brought it up.

Also did you get the mount that goes on the side cover that corrects the slave cylinder the geometry? For example: http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... sion-parts

Just some thoughts.

[brookester]

The pedal is working fine. Good pressure.
The Slave Saver is in place. I learned about that a few years ago after I sheared off a couple rods.
I will check all the bolts just to be sure but now I'm wondering if I might have damaged a fulcrum plate or something like that.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Going back to Marc's point about the urethane mount: when I had the problem with the solid mount flexing (the one at the nose cone) the shifter handle moved just enough, if I had my hand lightly resting on it, to feel it which is why I checked the mounts.

I am assuming that you are using a solid connector; check the condition of the shift rod connector to the shift rod and the grub screws on the connector. They can loosen or the threads on the connector can get damaged (hole elongated for example) by a lot of hard shifts. I think someone said that some of the newer versions may not be as good as the older one.

Also, what shifter are you using?

I have a Scat Drag fast shifter who's general shift action I like very much but does something similar to what your are talking about. I usually run in first and second only but each time I shift it kind of feels different. If I shift slow or double clutch going either up or down gears it seems to work better which is not right. I got the shifter used and while I like the action of it, I am not always sure of how far into gear it is going some times.

I still wouldn't be surprised if it is something internal but get the easy cheap checks out of the way first.

[Pablo2]

I have a built type one swing axle

Did the build include new intermediate housing or rebushed bore for mainshaft ball bearing?
Was the nosecone resurfaced or a repair thrust plate added?

All old swingaxles require that something be done to regain a hold on the mainshaft's ball bearing, or else forward / aft movement of the mainshaft will result (and this movement can be heard).

So, again .. is there movement in the shifter, when accelerating/decelerating in 3rd gear?

[brookester]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your help. I think I found the culprit.
I have the CB Performance rear disc brakes and the center section where the splines are located is moving. I don't know how it is secured in there but it moves probably a half inch back and forth. Looks like I need to call CB.

[Pablo2]

Lol .. I'd say you found it. Fortunately, CB is one of the companies the stands behind what they sell.

[brookester]

They said they would look into it and call me back. I have had good luck with them.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Did you have a low speed squeaking noise coming from the rear of your car?

[brookester]

I haven't noticed anything. Why do you ask?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I had a constant squeak at low speeds that turned out to be the hub on the driver's side drum/hub sliding on the splines (IRS in my case). I would re-torque the axle nut, pin it, and it would be OK for a while then start in again. This went on for several years.

I finally bought a Torque Dude/Meiser and got a good over torque on the axle nut; haven't had that problem since. A lot of people exceed the torque spec on the axle nut for this reason. The tool also works famiously when removing the nut.

Just in case you weren't aware of this.

Lee

[brookester]

Before I went to the discs, I stripped out a lot of drums and eventually some nice axles. Then I bought the Torque Dude. They're worth every penny. I recheck them every couple thousand miles now. I also use the Castle nuts with the flange on them and I think that might help too, dunno.