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Is there a rule of thumb on how much freeplay at arm with hydraulic clutch setup?

I don't know for sure but I would suspect that normal free play at the arm/Throw Out bearing would still apply. It is that wear that I suspect should be maintained.

http://nastyz28.com/threads/throwout-be ... ay.179137/ ????

Wondering what normal is? Do I adjust the rods till there is only a small amount of freeplay, or just till it is snug? I can't seem to find any thing online.

One of the inputs on the URL I posted said that the TO bearing should not be in contact with the fingers on the clutch cover. Since I am not at home I am not sure if I have a VW book here.

I'll do some searching later but right now I am in the middle of water issues and flooding. Got the rest fixed and another faucet let lose .

Lee

oh crap, hate when that stuff happens. Yea, I'm looking at those and trying to see how much travel I have at arm. I'm gonna need a buddy here to push the pedal.

Try backing off the adjusting nut from the slave cylinder to the clutch arm. I did have a book here and it does give a free play range at the pedal but I don't think that will work on a hydraulic clutch (I could be and probably am wrong) setup. I did do some searching and couldn't really find anything other than different ways on how to do the conversion.

There is a spring there that backs off the TO bearing from the disc. See how much free play there is by pulling on the arm manually. Mentally mark the location of the arm is when the bearing just comes into contact with the disc then use this as a point to begin the back off to keep the TO and the clutch cover from being in contact when not shifting gears. A way but probably not the best way.

Thanks, I went one way, but was wrong, won't shift at all. I'll go the other way, a bit at a time, till it shifts easy again. Trial & error will get me there.

I've got a hydraulic clutch conversion myself but the engine isn't in place yet. I've done a bit of looking and listening and so far what I said was what I have been hearing. It could be that what I have been told is out of no-knowledge also .

Lee

I have a T3(Vanagon) slave on my Manx so the throw out bearing rides on the pressure plate fingers all the time with the pressure of the internal spring in the slave cylinder.

1800 gearbox, 2 litre bellhousing, vanagon slave cylinder, stage 1 200mm clutch, Subaru EJ22, 19mm brake master with residual pressure valve removed as clutch master.

Interesting. Constant contact is something I was told not to have. Its amounts to be like riding with your foot lightly on the pedal Hmmm!

I pull the clutch arm manually with my hand and hold it so the TO brg is against the PP and adjust the nut on the slave to where it just touches the arm and then back off 1/2 turn or so, so that there is just a little play in the arm when moving it by hand.

BAJA-IT wrote: ↑Mon May 21, 2018 3:25 pm I pull the clutch arm manually with my hand and hold it so the TO brg is against the PP and adjust the nut on the slave to where it just touches the arm and then back off 1/2 turn or so, so that there is just a little play in the arm when moving it by hand.

That sounds better. You just don't want the bearing to ride or rattle against the PP arms.

Lee

That's about where I am now I believe. Just kept tightening a couple turns at a time, till it felt good shifting, Thanks for the help guys, I love this site.