I was worried more about the burrs that could be made in the stock bolts funny/specific tool pattern. No burrs then no problem but if there are burrs then they might be hard to clean out. Sharp drill bits can make a big difference but not always.
Lee
Inboard disk brakes?
- Jadewombat
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Inboard disk brakes?
It's an idea borrowed from the Air Force. All of their stuff used to be wire tied because those old planes would vibrate so much. I bought the jig for drilling bolt heads, but didn't have much luck with it. I don't know what I was doing wrong but it kept deflecting the head of the drill bit.
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- Posts: 17731
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Inboard disk brakes?
Very probably the jig was not made to fit the application properly or made too general to fit many applications.
I've never lock wired myself even when the fastener was drilled for it (I don't remember there being a reason for that type of bolt head to be used where it was (nor was there anything to tie to ) and never had reason to use the spec in any design work I did. Their use was, as you said, more for extreme applications or where constant "corrections" were not the norm (kind of like the two colors designations used on "AN" fittings). There are other locking methods that work... up to a point then I agree: break out the wire.
Mr. Bats picture show one application of lock wire, when on the bolt head. There is another way, usually for the nuts where the holes are across the flats and not through the threads. Through the threads requires a hole in the bolt; e.g., castellated fasteners for example but the across the flats, as I remember can be had in bolts also.
If I remember correctly that the stock CV bolts have a fine spline specialty tool pattern in the cap/head which is what I was concerned about.
I wonder how much strength loss is had, if any, by going through the bolt head like that: if I remember correctly, the through the flats style is supposed to be stronger. Don't know for sure... just contemplating looking at the pix again.
Lee
I've never lock wired myself even when the fastener was drilled for it (I don't remember there being a reason for that type of bolt head to be used where it was (nor was there anything to tie to ) and never had reason to use the spec in any design work I did. Their use was, as you said, more for extreme applications or where constant "corrections" were not the norm (kind of like the two colors designations used on "AN" fittings). There are other locking methods that work... up to a point then I agree: break out the wire.
Mr. Bats picture show one application of lock wire, when on the bolt head. There is another way, usually for the nuts where the holes are across the flats and not through the threads. Through the threads requires a hole in the bolt; e.g., castellated fasteners for example but the across the flats, as I remember can be had in bolts also.
If I remember correctly that the stock CV bolts have a fine spline specialty tool pattern in the cap/head which is what I was concerned about.
I wonder how much strength loss is had, if any, by going through the bolt head like that: if I remember correctly, the through the flats style is supposed to be stronger. Don't know for sure... just contemplating looking at the pix again.
Lee
- Jadewombat
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Inboard disk brakes?
If you're really worried about it after being drilled, just run a normal hex bolt instead of the 12 point spline cv bolt. I've never heard of a bolt being sheared off due to the tiny holes being drilled for the wire--although if that number is non-zero it's tiny compared to the frozen or overtorqued 12 point bolts that didn't want to back out that the universe has seen. I've spent many, many hours over the years freeing those things up with a chisel, hammer, and vice grips as I'm sure you guys have.
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- Posts: 17731
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Inboard disk brakes?
I think you miss-understood; I was thinking out loud about the holes for lock wiring when they are drilled across the bolt head, not at a diagonal flat to flat..
You also have to remember that I was dealing with larger loads than we are talking about here; e.g., 12 to 16 G's and bolts for mounting jet engine to the struts.
I also am aware of certain types of hex heads (the flat ones often used in close quarters can/will/have been known to twist the heads off if the drilling across the head is not done correctly; e.g., too close to the radius from the shank to the head or will have "walk off" by the wrench or socket). I have twisted more than a few bolt heads off myself plus stripping out the threads.
I also agree with the over torquing bit but that is going to be done lock wiring or not. You must admit, not too many people bother with torquing all of them on especially when they are in a hurry.
You also have to remember that I was dealing with larger loads than we are talking about here; e.g., 12 to 16 G's and bolts for mounting jet engine to the struts.
I also am aware of certain types of hex heads (the flat ones often used in close quarters can/will/have been known to twist the heads off if the drilling across the head is not done correctly; e.g., too close to the radius from the shank to the head or will have "walk off" by the wrench or socket). I have twisted more than a few bolt heads off myself plus stripping out the threads.
I also agree with the over torquing bit but that is going to be done lock wiring or not. You must admit, not too many people bother with torquing all of them on especially when they are in a hurry.