Wilwood Dynalite Brake Upgrade

[ToRy 70]

Is reducing mass ever a detriment (for example, reducing rotational mass vs increasing clamping force makes it easier to lock up and skid) or is lighter always better?

[Piledriver]

I cannot think of an example where heavier enhances performance, with the exception of brakes.

Big brakes have a larger mass, heat up slower, and have more cooling capability, and at least the calipers are generally stiffer.

There does come a point of diminishing returns, on the street or AX getting rid of massive brake heat isn't remotely the issue it is if you are screaming around a road racing course.

[Bruce.m]

Any progress pile?

A couple of pics of my progress.....

Front


Rear

[Piledriver]

Hoping to get it done this weekend, will take pics as it goes...
The rear susp. has been 90% assembled sitting for the entire work week due to my schedule.
(Can't be banging on things at 2AM in the back yard when I get home, and no time when I get up)

The most "interesting" bit will be mounting the current rotors up on a spare spindle and solidly mounting the plasma cutter torch so i can spin the rotor for a clean sever. That's the absolute point of no return, at least for those rotors.

Fortunately it will easily cut straight through the webbing at 50A, ~3/4 power, that's about the limit of the 240v breaker I'm using, if I could give it full power (70A) it would take about 10 seconds to clean cut the old rotor to hub size.
(it will sever 30mm, cut rating 26mm)

[ToRy 70]

Nice work Bruce!

[Bruce.m]

Maybe over thinking the plasma cutter? I used an angle grinder to cut off the bell (not rushed to keep the heat down) & the lathe cleaned up any inaccuracy.

[Piledriver]

No handy lathe today.
The outer edge doesn't center the hat, so it just has to be an even, clean cut.

[Piledriver]

944 brembo rears are working perfectly, the front upgrade is "suffering from working well" as the 944 rears fixed the brake bias as intended.
Still working on the coil over setup, front brake upgrade still going to happen eventually, car is my favorite DD so I don't like having it down long.

[Piledriver]

Finally started cutting up things that work perfectly fine, or I'd never get to it until the pads were worn out.

,,,also as it was sunny and 65 today, with manageable wind for a few inches of welding.
The plasma cutter only worked OK for this, but was 100X faster than just grinding on it
(70A plasma cutter==1 inch depth single pass cut, 1 slow rotation was all it took, maybe 3 minutes/side then whack with hammer)

The plane of the existing caliper mounts was actually perfect, and if the calipers were bolted to the lower hole, they could be positioned correctly by doing a bit of Van Gogh... Then welding the upper caliper mounting ear back on in the right place.
Caliper also clears the steering arm/tie rod end perfectly

The Wilwood Superlights come drilled for 3/8" bolts, I opened them up a tiny bit and used the factory 12mm 10.9s.

Since spindle assy is forged mild steel, probably ~1030 or so, and it was a little too windy for the TIG torch (and full power would be needed, the gas cooled #9 torch I have on the 181I won't cut it) , just used the 250A spoolgun, 25V, 500IPM .023 wire (on edge of spray transfer, very fast, great penetration)
If the weld had looked cold//iffy I would have taken it up to my sons and TIGed it with my Synchro 250 with water cooled torch, but the 181i set on max and the oversized spoolgun I have on it worked peachy.

Had a "spare" damaged superlight caliper via Ebay for free, so used that to keep the ear aligned and as heat sink...
After final positioning, welded the ends, cleaned up, cooled, half pass on one side, verified still straight, clean up/grind backside for clean/weld access, then final pass on back.
(did not do the welding on the car, with the dual spring setup pulling or reinstalling the calipers is a 30 second two handed operation, unlike stock setup, which requires two clowns and calliope music)

Overdid the weld bead thickness a bit as I wanted zero undercut, cleaned up nice, and broke a 12mm grade 10.9 bolt off trying to break the weld. Never moved, should be OK.
The other side is "Van Gogh'd" and the hub cut down already, and I have the settings down for the weld, so will finish that off in the AM and redo the hydraulics tomorrow.

wilwoods-1.JPG

wilwoods-2.JPG

wilwoods-3.JPG

I may eventually swap over to these hubs, but with the additional 1" spacer and wilwood hat/rotor I'm set up for now:
http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/4182.htm

[ToRy 70]

Nice work Pile!

I too have made a little forward progress. I used some 7 gauge CRS (0.179") to make brackets and corresponding drill jigs. Drilled and tapped the spindles and it couldn't have gone better! Drill jig worked exactly as planned and the tap block helped keep things nice and straight. Rotor clears the bracket face by about 0.050". This is a little tight but I don't plan on having 0.100" worth of wobble on the spindle.

Since they are dropped disc spindles and I didn't feel like clearancing them, I rotated the caliper position towards the front. This way I can return to stock if absolutely necessary.

Yellow zinc for rustproofing and pop!

[Piledriver]

Looks very nice!

Still looking for pre-made BJ front hubs to make this easy: Will have to call CB tomorrow and see if they just sell the aluminum hubs like they do for the rear 5x130 setup...

http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/san ... -each.html Latest Rage, but reasonably priced...

[Piledriver]

Started early today. probably too early... Noon is my usual wake up alarm. (work nights)

Welded up the other side, but the "test groove" revealed a spiderweb of no penetration//crap weld, so it got all ground out and welded again, after a good preheat. (It was about 45 F when I started)
I suspect the preheating done over a few iterations of finding the right settings allowed the first side to go much better.

Made a pass at TIG and it looked like it would probably have worked better, if only due to taking longer (effectively preheating the area) ...but the wind kicked up right about then and that was done... Threw together a little windbreak, was enough to get it done with the MIG, ~300 IPS wirespeed and 25V, preheat with MAPP torch. Amazingly the mounting surface was still in-plane with the unaltered ear per the hand mill (big file)

Waiting on a female 10mm x 1.0 bubble flare bulkhead (for the stock pan tab/clip) to 3AN adapter and Wilwood hat centering rings from Summit.(Earls Performance 989534 for the fitting)

Premade Goodridge braided SS brake lines are only ~$10-15 at Smileys Racing, will pick some and the 3AN to 1/8" NPT adapters up Tuesday on the way into work. I'd prefer OE lines, but there just wasn't a good way to do it, and the Goodridge lines are apparently the same line as they sell for the OE replacement stuff, just not available as "DOT" with AN fittings. There is a place in Dallas that will custom make me OE style lines with any combination of fittings, will look into that, would rather have the coated SS tho.

I already rearranged/simplified the plumbing at the master for a dual diagonal setup, might as well use the two long lines and the previous rework at the back.

[H2OSB]

unlike stock setup, which requires two clowns and calliope music

Lazily reading through this thread on my break at work because I have to be at my lab on the last day of the year. When I got to the above quote I literally spit coffee all over the place from my burst of laughter.

H2OSB

[Piledriver]

Spent a few minutes today looking at other hat options, if only to move the 1" spacers outside the hats.
Strangely, they don't seem to make 8x7" pattern rotor hats with a 2" offset--- 1.96? OK, 2.12? Fine...
But not 2.0". 2.0" only seem available with 7.62" pattern that only works with 12"+ rotors.

I suppose I could just mill down some 2.12", or add spacers under the calipers, but still frustrating.

[GS guy]

Pile,
Those offsets are a little odd, I suspect made to work specifically with some common oval-racing spindle/hub. 1.96" is only 1/32" shy, literally a "shim" spacer to make it an even 2.0. The hat thickness at the hub, at least on the hats I'm using, doesn't really have enough there to consider removing 1/8" from the thickness. What about just spacing the rotor off the hat? Some simple shim washers from McMaster would do the trick.