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bad62bug
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?

Post by bad62bug »

I have the CB rear disc brakes race version
Was thinking about having my son machine new hubs out of aluminum
think they would hold up? Any type of aluminum i should use or treatment to the part aka hard anodized?

I see other kits with aluminum hubs.
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risk
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Re: ?

Post by risk »

6061 is strong and machines easily. Very common and also sometimes called aircraft aluminum. Anodize is going to make the surface harder (better wear characteristics), won't really increase the overall strength of the part.
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bad62bug
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Re: ?

Post by bad62bug »

Thanks for the reply
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Piledriver
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Re: ?

Post by Piledriver »

bad62bug wrote:Thanks for the reply

Hit up Devastator, he can make them and at least knows who has the tooling to broach them for the axles.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Steve Arndt
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Re: ?

Post by Steve Arndt »

Putting the stub axle drive splines in aluminum isn't a good idea.
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bad62bug
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Re: ?

Post by bad62bug »

Thanks for the reply's
wasn't sure if it would work or not.
Bruce2
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Re: ?

Post by Bruce2 »

Steve's right, the Al won't hold up at the splines. That's why Porsche aluminum drums had a steel insert for the splines.
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risk
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Re: ?

Post by risk »

what about the CNC hubs? the site says they are machined from 7075 alum


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Last edited by risk on Thu May 05, 2016 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Steve Arndt
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Re: ?

Post by Steve Arndt »

Not a good idea, but people will buy anything.
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Piledriver
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Re: ?

Post by Piledriver »

Strictly in defense of aluminum... :twisted:

The circle track Wide5 hubs (Wilwood etc) use bolt-on anodized 7075 drive hubs with std v8 axles plugged in.(greased)

They are a consumable but they A) have a tiny fraction of the engagement area, with an angled spline contact, and B) get 300HP/side pushed through them in many cases. and C) Still last for ages in most cases.

OTOH, all it does is transfer power; it doesn't hold the car up, or even keep the hub attached to the axle.
They fall off and the car just rolls to a stop in a fully controlled fashion, brakes and all, just "no va"

They do make CrMo versions but those are made for stupid HP/off road (ab)use and "off axis" setups with ball-ground axle splined ends with contact area too small to be believed.

The square teeth should work fine IF you can keep the aluminum hubs tightened down, which would be my concern.
A shrink fit iron or steel center would solve all issues.(Including having the splines broached $$$)
These could be easily made from dead OG rear drums.

The CrMo steel T3 style hubs from CB or ISPWest could be lightened a LOT, and will be much stronger.
I suspect a $35 cast iron OG or even EMPI type3 hub may even be better than aluminum in this use due to fatigue.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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