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- bad62bug
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Sun Dec 31, 2000 12:01 am
?
I have the CB rear disc brakes race version
Was thinking about having my son machine new hubs out of aluminum
think they would hold up? Any type of aluminum i should use or treatment to the part aka hard anodized?
I see other kits with aluminum hubs.
Was thinking about having my son machine new hubs out of aluminum
think they would hold up? Any type of aluminum i should use or treatment to the part aka hard anodized?
I see other kits with aluminum hubs.
- Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22518
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: ?
bad62bug wrote:Thanks for the reply
Hit up Devastator, he can make them and at least knows who has the tooling to broach them for the axles.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Posts: 7400
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
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- Posts: 7400
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
- Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22518
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: ?
Strictly in defense of aluminum...
The circle track Wide5 hubs (Wilwood etc) use bolt-on anodized 7075 drive hubs with std v8 axles plugged in.(greased)
They are a consumable but they A) have a tiny fraction of the engagement area, with an angled spline contact, and B) get 300HP/side pushed through them in many cases. and C) Still last for ages in most cases.
OTOH, all it does is transfer power; it doesn't hold the car up, or even keep the hub attached to the axle.
They fall off and the car just rolls to a stop in a fully controlled fashion, brakes and all, just "no va"
They do make CrMo versions but those are made for stupid HP/off road (ab)use and "off axis" setups with ball-ground axle splined ends with contact area too small to be believed.
The square teeth should work fine IF you can keep the aluminum hubs tightened down, which would be my concern.
A shrink fit iron or steel center would solve all issues.(Including having the splines broached $$$)
These could be easily made from dead OG rear drums.
The CrMo steel T3 style hubs from CB or ISPWest could be lightened a LOT, and will be much stronger.
I suspect a $35 cast iron OG or even EMPI type3 hub may even be better than aluminum in this use due to fatigue.
The circle track Wide5 hubs (Wilwood etc) use bolt-on anodized 7075 drive hubs with std v8 axles plugged in.(greased)
They are a consumable but they A) have a tiny fraction of the engagement area, with an angled spline contact, and B) get 300HP/side pushed through them in many cases. and C) Still last for ages in most cases.
OTOH, all it does is transfer power; it doesn't hold the car up, or even keep the hub attached to the axle.
They fall off and the car just rolls to a stop in a fully controlled fashion, brakes and all, just "no va"
They do make CrMo versions but those are made for stupid HP/off road (ab)use and "off axis" setups with ball-ground axle splined ends with contact area too small to be believed.
The square teeth should work fine IF you can keep the aluminum hubs tightened down, which would be my concern.
A shrink fit iron or steel center would solve all issues.(Including having the splines broached $$$)
These could be easily made from dead OG rear drums.
The CrMo steel T3 style hubs from CB or ISPWest could be lightened a LOT, and will be much stronger.
I suspect a $35 cast iron OG or even EMPI type3 hub may even be better than aluminum in this use due to fatigue.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.