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In retrospect, the axles I used with the early alloy arms and T1 transmission were probably for a 944T, as they came from the same Porsche breaker yard the arms did, and possibly the same car.

I replaced one of them when I swapped in the automatic (used a 914 axle and a spacer/added T4 flanges so spacing changed), so I can measure, but I go back to work tomorrow, may be a few days before I get a chance.

I bored the CVs a bit so it worked at T1 spline depth.(for the 914 axle)

Goodies arrived! 3.5mm spacers for rear calipers, eccentric bolts for camber and sway bar attachment, longer studs for the front hubs to use 21mm spacers, various bolts and, nuts and spacers I was still missing. I found one more interesting bit of info, on CV joints: sizes, fit. I was not sure if both baywindow and vanagon had the same CVs (100mm), and also same as 924/944/typ181. Usually people use typ181 flanges in bug IRS gearbox, to be able to install vanagon or 944 axles. I found CSP has HD conversion flanges, but they were not advertiesd as typ181, but as T1 to T2 flanges.
http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm

The T2/T4/181/944 flange is the same.(100mm CV, minor cv differences but interchangeable)
Bug/914 cvs are 90mm.
Bay axles are shorter than Vanagon.
bug axles are shorter than bay bus.

early 924/944/181 axles are a tiny bit shorter than bug to allow for the wider cv joints

A bit more progress here: I will also get the axles from the 944T the brakes came off. I documented on rear shock absorbers, I have to use the 944 part because it has 14mm lower mounting bolt. Top mount is 12mm as Beetle, and the compressed/extended length is the same. Nothing fancy with angled bushing/mounting point. Bilsteins are ~same price as for Beetle, Konis are nearly double but I do not see a big advantage, having the whole setup stiffer than beetle anyway.
I decided to paint the calipers, because the original paint is chipped/exfoliated. Maybe I will make them red.
And I still need to find two 15", ET23.3 Phone dials, 95136210400. Even if my Cookies will fit with 21mm spacers up front, I still want two more Phonies as winter wheels.

New (old) parts in: 944t axles with all mounting hardware. These are 531mm (a bit shorter than the Vanagon axles, 540mm), but have a higher angle of 24 degrees. And they were in very good shape, off a car with 70.000kms. 300 bucks.

One step ahead: I got two more 15", ET23.3 Phone dials, 95136210400. Story is funny for me, I was discussing with a friend about the color of his car and where he painted it, then I was telling him what I have been messing with and that I have some wheels like his, but with ET23 (he has ET51 front and rear on his car). So he sais: well, I have two of those wheels in my fathers garage since 6 or 7 years, they rub the fenders on the rear, come take them because they are just taking up space. So I'll build him a fuel injection controller in exchange.

What would be the problems using +2ET on front hubs of 951?
I have to stick with 15" wheels due to legal reasons. I have two sets: Cookie cutters that I really like, 7J ET23, but which do not clear the calipers. I have another set of 951 15" Phone dials, 7J ET23, which are the only ones to clear the caliper. However, I would like to keep my old wheels too. So I am thinking to install longer studs (already have them) and use original Porsche 21mm rear spacers. Having a wider front would also be beneficial from the stability and control point of view, because using the rear alu arms from 951 it will be very wide in comparison to the front (Beetle normally has wider front than rear). This would mean that using these wheels and spacers, the ET would be just +2.
I have seen that some 951 cars had spacers on front from factory (maybe the ones with M030 option?), but I do not know what is the ET of the original wheels (most probable 51ET).

I will continue here with the suspension mods. I made a "Kafer brace", it cost me just around 150$, and now I have the RH and LH taps in case I want to make more. I might make two more short rods, to have something similar to Mendeola Stiffy (5 bar setup instead of 3). The long bar is for front shock towers.

This is a whole build? Post more stuff - with pictures. I'm tired of sitting on top ot this sub-forum all the time. I kind of ignored this thread, since I'm doing 944 swaps. Pictures, pictures, pictures!

Hi Chad, this is not an actual full build. I have restored my car more than 10 years ago, but on a student budget, so many details are bad. At that time I installed 924S brakes on all four corners.
Now I am preparing a type4 engine and I want to restore again the car, to correct all details. So if I separate body and chassis anyway, I want to detail it and change easier some parts of suspension and brakes, if I already have them: front stress bar, rear cup brace, rear stabilizer, 944t arms, 944t brakes. I will post pics, but I will do this job next year, after I build a garage. Now I am just preparing everything, to have a smooth job.
Can you please recommend how to change the front wheel studs? I need longer ones for using 21mm spacers, so I can use my cookie cutters with the 944t front brakes. I was thinking to remove the aluminum hubs, heat the hub with a gas torch and press them out.

Use a big hammer and drive them out, one good hit will get them

66brm wrote: ↑Sat Jul 21, 2018 12:04 am Use a big hammer and drive them out, one good hit will get them

Good or bad, this is what I do. I put a lug nut on the end, turned upside down right at the end of the stud so I don't damage the threads. A couple good smacks is all it takes.

H2OSB

They pop out fairly easy but it’s kinder to the alloy if you heat to circa 50C. The alloy expands more than the steel and therefore has a lighter grip.

TZepeSH wrote: ↑Wed Jul 18, 2018 11:25 pm I might make two more short rods, to have something similar to Mendeola Stiffy (5 bar setup instead of 3).

Don't bother, the two extra ones don't do anything.

The "Stiffy".

The best thing it does is the extra bar to the pivot and transfers some of the load to the torsion housing reducing some of it from the spreader bar that would normally pass everything directly into the shock towers using the old Truss/Kaffer bar kits. You can see the connection plate almost is a triangle with bent stiffening flanges which handles the 4 connections (the spreader bar, the Kaffer/Truss bar, the bar to the swing arm pivot and the stud coming to the shock tower). This is the standard commercial Truss/Kaffer/traction bar. Everything ends up connecting to the spreader bar then from there is transferred directly into the shock towers via. longer shock bolts. Pretty weak but better than nothing.