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Super Beetle senders had a ground wire attachment to the sender.

Speedy Jim wrote:Super Beetle senders had a ground wire attachment to the sender.

Not a SB but that makes sense and I thought about that. Just don't see any signs of added ground.

Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2005 2:51 pm Post subject:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=89248

Anonymous wrote:411 941 583C is the Headlight dimmer relay.

The Flasher goes 2 spaces down from there.

BTW, there is only ONE flasher; the same one is used for both Turn Signals and 4-way Hazards. The switch on the dash controls what happens and also
which Fuse feeds the Flasher.
There is a simplified diagram on my web site.

Without the lights connected, nothing will happen.
You can download a color-coded diagram of the whole car here:
http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring.html
I think this one:
1971 1302 USA de Y
will be the most descriptive for your purposes.

If you need them, look on my web site for the rear tail light wiring colors.

--

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Ok as you car see I searched. What is the part numbers of the other relays I must have? I have the 411 941 583C which is the Headlight dimmer relay.
I am close to having this car driveable. I have headlights, and tail lights, the idiot light for the oil pressure is working. I just need to get the turn signals working the charging system charging, and the wiper working properly. I think the turn signal assembly is defective. The wipers run all the time.

111-953-227-D
Flasher relay

That's the only other relay you need.
Skip the seat belt relay and jumper as shown on my web site.

Jim

Speedy Jim wrote:111-953-227-D
Flasher relay

That's the only other relay you need.
Skip the seat belt relay and jumper as shown on my web site.

Jim

Thanks Speedy Jim I searched and searched for the right one and still bought the wrong one.

I found some short cuts on the wiring.
I now have working turn signals emergency flashers and wipers,and brake lights. The wiring is missing for the brake warning light. I don't really care if the brake warning light or the seat belt warning light work.
I eliminated some of the wiring and relays so I didn't have to jumper the Big red/black wire that engages the starter per the diagram posted.
If you hook the red/black wire from the ignition switch directly to the red/black wire coming out of the rear wiring harness you have bypassed the need for the jumper.
I also bypassed the brake warning light circuit by hooking the black/red wire coming out of the front wiring harness directly to the rear wiring harness. This can only be done if you have separate brake lights and turn signals. Like the elephant feet with the amber turn signal lens.
To test the operation of the turn signal flasher if you turn the key on and put the turn signal in the relaxed position you can ground a test light then probe the connector that comes out of the turn signal switch with the wire colors black/white/green and the blue wire the test lamp will flash and the turn signal relay will click. You won't have any turn signals while doing this.

Speedy Jim wrote:Yes, all correct. Except that there is no need to "bypass" the Brake warning light system. Simply don't hook the thin Red wire up to the warning light.

BTW, I have a new diagram and explanation of the 3-prong Brake switch system:
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm

Good idea for just connecting the starter wire direct to bypass the relay.

Ok I found a gremlin. I have a intermittent problem with the brake lights. I had the Key on today working on the car and noticed the brake lights were on. I verified it was the brake lights not the tail lights. If I disconnect the black/red wire in the connector in the diagram below the lights go out. I checked the voltage on the black power feed wire it was 11.6 volts. The voltage on the black red wire was 5.8 volts same with the red wire that goes to the dash brake warning light. The pedal has enough play and the wheels all spin. So the master cylinder doesn't seem to be the problem. I should have no voltage on the black/red wire without the brakes being applied. When it is applied I should have battery voltage on the black/red wire. I let the car sit for a while then turned the key on and the brake lights were off. I guess I need to replace both of the brake light switches, I don't see anything else it can be and don't understand seeing half battery voltage. Speedy this diagram is a lot more visible than on your site I posted the url to it from your site?

Your browser may elect to display the diagram small when looking at the web site.

A bad switch could cause what you see. Corrosion inside the connector can do it too. You have to peel back the rubber boot to see it.

Jim

On the panel w/o the actual fuses, where does the hot/red wire for the fuel gauge or vibratory connect?

Or 12v ignition wire from vibrator