Vanagon Alternator - 9:00 o'clock 12SI or 130d

[luftvagon]

My original alternator is slowly fading away. Time to replace it with something more substantial, should I go with 9 oclock 12si or C1500 130d?

[Piledriver]

You know how I roll....
The CS130D is a much more advanced unit than the good old 12Si, PWM current control and breakdown diodes to ~eliminate any spikes that tend to jack up EFI.
(main reason I went there, aside from it costing ~1/2 what a Bosch reman was going for, all new unit, with a lifetime warranty from O'Reallys to boot)
Has 2 pairs of sealed bearings and internal fans.

The only trick is to convert it to a "no post"--- all that requires is a short 6mm bolt to clamp down the 8-10ga feed wire lugs directly to the rectifier inside the unit, for clearance reasons. (I use 3x12ga, as i couldn't find any 8ga to save my life when I did it, I'm fuzzy how a 100A alternator is supposed to work at ratings through a single 12ga fusible link as GM does)

Just run them in through the large vent holes.
I can say it has been absolutely issue free, and electrical noise is so low as not to even remotely be a concern, starts at 13.8v and drops to 13.4 after about 10 minutes, ~regardless of load.

The even newer GM units are supposedly even better, but I don't know how they fit and I probably don't want to know what they cost.

[luftvagon]

I followed your thread - http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 1&t=136215
but I am not sure how well it would fit.

[luftvagon]

Oh.. Pile... I just ordered CS130D. Hoping the fab is not going to be too difficult.

[Piledriver]

Oh.. Pile... I just ordered CS130D. Hoping the fab is not going to be too difficult.

Cool, it should fit in a std T4 housing about as easily, you can probably use the stock T4 pulley with a big washer.
(same sized metric shaft)
Might have to fab a wider/different bracket, but doable.
I did it on the Vanagon housing, put the alt in the T4 location---much more work, probably, but worth it to me for the better cooling.

EDIT: OK, you have the Vanagon housing, feel free to copy my setup if that suits the Vanagon, if you want heat you can probably adapt the Vanagon heater blower, or if all else fails pick up a couple of the T4/914 electric blowers for heat.
You can probably adapt the Vanagon mounts, i didn't have them as a choice, and I put it in the T4 location for better clearance in the T3.

The alt I have needs the idiot light, and does not need the external ECU enable or feedback
(2005 C/K 5.7L/350 Chevy PU, I went through the schematics of several models to find one kosher for the app)

I used a Vanagon pulley off a T4 vanagon alternator, between it and the washer that comes with the gm alt it is spaced just right, ~2mm from the alt.
(you should be all set)

I made the brackets so the stock belt for a T4 was still the right size.

It will hit the tin behind it, considered adding a fresh air feed hole to the tin but it was never an issue in 100++F temps.
(the cs130d has thermal overtemp protection)

[luftvagon]

I am not using engine heat for cabin heat. I'll be removing that. Wonder if the engine will care if i don't cool the heater boxes?

[Piledriver]

I am not using engine heat for cabin heat. I'll be removing that. Wonder if the engine will care if i don't cool the heater boxes?

Will drive cht up some and can damage the HX.
You will be way ahead with 411 pipes or EMW hx replacement pipes.

[luftvagon]

that could be a problem. that will be hard to find. my heads are square port (vanagon)

[Piledriver]

Somebody's selling CNC squareport stubs at a reasonable price, although it escapes me who ATM.

You could probably graft them onto any other set of T4 pipes pretty easily.

If you are looking at a good exhaust A1 might be able to build you one with those stubs.

I have ~2 weeks off over Thanksgiving, so I'm hoping to get the Bad Idea setup finished/installed if you want to go to something DIYish.

The CNC stubs deal with what is probably the hardest part of building T4 headers.

[luftvagon]

I saw those on samba, but the guy was banned, and there was a message to be cautious.

Edit: Found it:
http://www.lowbugget.com/flanges3.html

Edit #2:
And some of the opinions:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0

[luftvagon]

Alternatives?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Vintage-Sp ... -42scu.htm
$420 - delivered..

This blows... throwing money at a problem, that does not want to go away. It almost makes me wish I bought a Subaru conversion kit. It would've been cheaper in the long run.

[luftvagon]

Can they the OE/Stock heater boxes be cut-up?

[luftvagon]

More research:

http://www.germanlook.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10540

http://shop.vintagespeed.com.tw/s.nl/sc ... egory.7/.f

Teaser:
Porsche like?

[Piledriver]

Um... Those are oval port flanges that lowbudget sells, you need square port.

Lowbudget takes paypal.
Paypal does not play games.
If he stiffs you, you will get your money back pronto, and they will suck it back out his account, or shut him down in a heartbeat.

He used to be a reputable dude, not quite sure what happened.

[Piledriver]

Can they the OE/Stock heater boxes be cut-up?

Sometimes, you can melt the aluminum off in a fire pit after taking the outer tin off.
(someone here just did that in the last week or so http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 2&start=15 )
If the HX are in really good shape it would be a shame IMHO, are they 4 tube style??

Most folks that have done it simply slice the flanges off damages/rusted out HX.
(the flanges are usually just fine, unless its been sitting in the ocean for years)

Welding a set of those flanges on these is a better plan:
Most cheap "for stock app" (Thunderbird clone) headers end up as reasonably close to equal length tubes with these.
They or the header needs extended about an inch for use with a 914 Bursch header, the Sebring 4>1 is cheaper and may or may not need the stretch.

http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/mm5/m ... -4-exhaust

The vintagespeed stuff is nice, but You can get a really good A1 header for what they get for a muffler.
The squareports are the hold up.