Edis with Megajolt Limp Mode???

[Shood87]

So I got the engine in wired everything up and started the car. After some adjustment got the carbs running good and it idles pretty good. When I press the throttle the carbs open all the way I have checked that. The problem is that when I start to drive the car doesn't want to go over like 10-15 mph. It feels like it is in limp mode. Now I know that the linkage binds when it tries to close but if I blip the throttle they close all the way i am in the process of sorting that.

The question is for all the Edis and Megajolt gurus out there can the out of box tune for the Megajolt run the car? or do I have to mess with it before I drive. Also if it is good out of the box what else would I check to see what is going on. I get readings on the laptop so it seems like the Megajolt is working. I have searched and really couldn't find anything.

The car is a 73 STD, 1641 DP with dual 34 weber ICTs. Ford Edis with Megajolt running with CB crank trigger kit. If you need to know anything else let me know.

Thank you is advance.

[Max Welton]

Is the timing advancing as the revs come up?

Max

[Shood87]

It does show it advancing as it revs.

[Chip Birks]

You have to confirm this with a timing light at the engine. Doesnt matter what the laptop says its doing, you need to know what is really happening.

[sideshow]

The rules of timing don't change because its EDIS based. Use an timing light/gun and see where you are at idle (1,000rpm) and full speed (4,000rpm no load). And which style of load indicator are you using? MAP (manifold pressure) or TPS (throttle indicated)? I have second hand concerns getting a stable signal from that style intake.

The most generic recommendations to just get it moving;
Idle 8-12 degrees
At speed 28-32 degrees

Step away from the keyboard and measure it yourself.

[Shood87]

Good point. I will have to check this. I am not sure.

[Shood87]

The rules of timing don't change because its EDIS based. Use an timing light/gun and see where you are at idle (1,000rpm) and full speed (4,000rpm no load). And which style of load indicator are you using? MAP (manifold pressure) or TPS (throttle indicated)? I have second hand concerns getting a stable signal from that style intake.

The most generic recommendations to just get it moving;
Idle 8-12 degrees
At speed 28-32 degrees

Step away from the keyboard and measure it yourself.

I am using a MAP sensor.

What are your other concerns?

[andy198712]

is the edis getting signal from megajolt? if not it'll be in limp mode.....

[Jadewombat]

Is your vacuum tied into both manifolds with a "T" or just one?

Check the runout on the VR sensor too and that it is adjusted the correct distance. Too close and the EDIS/MJ will not get a signal because it cannot sense the change in polarity from the teeth and the gap between the teeth, too far away and it will not see the teeth at all or show RPMs in the software.

viewtopic.php?f=63&t=139125&hilit=megajolt+notes

[Piledriver]

Also your timing light will supposedly need an EDIS//waste spark or two stroke setting or the readings will be ~double actual as the RPM scaling factor for the flash//timing delay in the light will be wrong.
(I'm thinking a dumb timing light or delay light set to zero advance should not care, but I haven't tried it)

Most auto parts stores will let you use one of the fancy units "with their help" in the parking lot for free.

[Clonebug]

You should also verify that you have the missing tooth in the correct place to give you the 10 degrees BTDC in limp home mode.

You need to remove the saw wire and check the timing with a light to make sure you are at 10 DBTDC at idle.
That will tell you you have the missing tooth in the correct place.
Next you check to see if you have advance at throttle after you hook up the saw wire again.
From there you check to make sure your computer is saying the same thing as the timing light is.
Once all that is done you can then adjust your map for timing.
As said above if you start out at 8-12 degrees at idle and your 3000 rpm at 28-30 degrees.....then you can blend the in between parts to match.
From there on it is playing with it to whatever the engine responds the best to.