In distributor crank triger 24/2 wheel

[woodsbuggy1]

Is anyone out there marketing the 24/2 dizzy crank trigger these days? I have emailed the gentleman on the Samba(with no reply) and have noticed that his ad is no longer listed. I was planning to modify a CAS from a Nissan SR20DET engine but this seems like a much simpler solution.
Thanks
Kenric

[Chip Birks]

Do you currently have a standard 36-1 wheel? Why not just toss a modded vanagon distributor in there. Cheap and easy mod if you want to go sequential. I got one for free from a guy that was doing a subie swap.

[woodsbuggy1]

I m looking for a more offroad friendly trigger wheel. I like the idea of having everything protected under a cap. Then I don't have to worry about mud, water etc. I am not interested in fully sequential just a sealed unit.
Thanks Kenric

[vwi_dduvall]

Is anyone out there marketing the 24/2 dizzy crank trigger these days? I have emailed the gentleman on the Samba(with no reply) and have noticed that his ad is no longer listed. I was planning to modify a CAS from a Nissan SR20DET engine but this seems like a much simpler solution.
Thanks
Kenric

I found that he does reply to his Ebay account (racemachineinc) he might take a bit as he is real busy.

[Piledriver]

I m looking for a more offroad friendly trigger wheel. I like the idea of having everything protected under a cap. Then I don't have to worry about mud, water etc. I am not interested in fully sequential just a sealed unit.
Thanks Kenric

If you order the 24-1 wheel from him it will also support fully sequential, he can make them either way.

The 24-2 (with opposing missing teeth, faux 12-1 missing tooth crank wheel) is meant for ms1, waste spark only.

The 24-1 VR setup Redline Weber sells is also an option.

[Piledriver]

Bumping this, sorta, had some requests for pics of my DIY setup, this currently resides on my desk awaiting being finished.
I've had a very similar 36-2 setup in the car for ~20K miles now.
This is a 72-1, filled in tooth, sensor will not work right with one filed out.
(That's how I found 36-2 still works)

Looks like the older posted pics were (temporarily?) lost in the board upgrade.

If you polished the ends of the teeth and/or maybe tipped them with retroflective paint you could use a reflective optical sensor instead.
You could then fill the gap with epoxy or file a tooth out... You could even use a fiber optic unit and keep the electronics out of the engine compartment entirely.

[Lingwendil]

Cool! Is that link I sent you the same gear? If so I'll post it up so we can share the love.


Looks like a good use for all the DVDA, SVA, and knock-off 009 dizzies floating around. I've got an old 205T with a bad vacuum can this would be perfect in.

Silly idea- Could leave all the guts in for a mechanically controlled advance curve, leave the distributor body set at 0° and let the limp-home-mode of an EDIS get your idle timing at 10° BTDC... This would let you slave the EDIS off of the curve of the distributor, but you would still have working advance. This may be of some merit if you have a snazzy dizzy that has been worked over enough to give the curve you or your engine like.

Goofy, but in theory it should work, and you get higher spark energy, and still get less timing scatter than a dizzy could do on its own. Assuming of course you can get the sensor to work with the EDIS module, which should be just fine I'm thinking... Good for folks that are scared of running a dedicated controller...

I'm still looking at the best way to get into crankfire on the cheap, but this looks like a tempting kludge until I get a megajolt or megasquirt.

[Piledriver]

IF you cut opposing teeth off on the 72 tooth wheel ... AND could find a VR sensor that worked with the fine pitch wheel AND EDIS, it might work.

You go first.

Would be easier to use a simple 4 tooth trigger and drive a Bosch coil driver in that case, the hall sensor would work doing it that way. keeping the cap/rotor etc.
You could even do waste spark, say using a VW 4 tower coil off a new beetle etc.
(needs 2 wheels/ sensors 90 degrees out to do it all in hardware I think, still processing, easier with electronics methinks)

You aren't gaining that much without the programmable ignition, just a hotter spark and maybe +reliability by ditching the cap/rotor etc.

The programmable part is the much bigger win IMHO.

On a hot engine with a big cam you aren't going to get effective "vacuum advance" without it, and its essential to keep down CHT/EGT, get decent fuel economy, and really run right at anything other than WOT.

BTW, the first setup (like this) I tried was a Mallory Unilite with extra slots milled in the wheel, 16-1.
Also tried turned down the upper shaft on a 009, keeping the rotor drive part intact.
Either could still be used as a distributor if so inclined, with a Megasquirt controlling timing.
Only useful if you want the olde skool look or are in a racing class that requires a distributor IMHO.

[woodsbuggy1]

I just received a reply today from the person making these, I will be running MS3x with wasted spark and FI, I was planning on a 24/1 wheel unless there are better suggestions.
Thanks
Kenric

[Piledriver]

I just received a reply today from the person making these, I will be running MS3x with wasted spark and FI, I was planning on a 24/1 wheel unless there are better suggestions.
Thanks
Kenric

It will work fine.

[woodsbuggy1]

I finally got my new motor finished and am trying to make this unit work but cant get my spark figured out. The wheel that I have is 24-1-1 (in megasquirt terms) 22 teeth with 2 missing teeth 180 deg apart. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Kenric

[Piledriver]

You could tell MS it was a 12-1 at crank speed and run waste spark.
That's the only way to use that particular wheel unless you add an additional cam sync sensor.

If you want sequential on MS2e/MS3 you need a std supported wheel, 24-1 or 24-2 would have worked.
If you got it from the guy over on TOS he knows it matters, but he figures everyone has a MS1 like he does.

Ask him if he has a proper 24-1 wheel you can swap in.

[woodsbuggy1]

Thanks Pile,
now have it set to 12/1 at crank speed but keep loosing tach signal. it shows 0 rpm about half the time. I had a consistent tach signal before changing the settings to crank based. I am running MS3X V3.57 with wasted spark.
Thanks Kenric

[Piledriver]

Hall or VR sensor is this the setup with the custom distributor cap?
(Pictures might help)