In distributor crank triger 24/2 wheel

[sphincter148]

Being offered on ebay by racemachineinc
Search : VW type 1 type 4 Distributor IgnitionTrigger wheel System 12-1 Megasquirt

Looks the part -- any one with real in use experience care to comment.

[Steve Arndt]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-type-1-type- ... 1656884599

[Steve Arndt]

Price seems high for just a metal wheel and sensor.

[Paul H]

Someone bought it

[Piledriver]

He came up with it in a thread on TOS.
CNC replacement cap with sensor mount and wheel.
Drops in 009 and probably many other VW T1/T4 distributors.
He can also supply it as a true 12-1, which will support full sequential on many systems.
(MS2E/MS3 at least)

He originally set it up as a 12-2 (with opposing missing teeth) for waste spark support on MS1, as that's what he has.

It doesn't look too bad. I provided some encouragement.

[volksbugly]

Why would someone buy that for 120? when for a little more you could get

http://thedubshop.goodsie.com/mini-cam-sync

or for a little less the bigger bulkier
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=7074

am I missing something?

[Chip Birks]

You'd buy it because it replaces the crank trigger wheel and sensor along with the cam wheel and trigger. So, cost would be about half for a full sequential setup.

This is why Mario is currently working in a multi tooth trigger wheel for his Mini Cam Sync body. One system that replaces 2 systems in a very clean package.

[MarioVelotta]

Yup, my new one is still in process. I just got the 24-1 in about 2 weeks ago. Didn't work out as I had hoped. The sensor doesn't pick up the first tooth as it should Possibly reversing the teeth and making it a a solid instead of missing for the next try.

Here is my origional 12-1 to the the new 24-1.


And a couple for scale:




Here is what the scope tells me about the 24-1 at 7k engine speed

[Piledriver]

Mario, if you are still using the same sensors it should work fine with a filled missing tooth.
I'm literally using the one i used as a true gear tooth sensor. (36-2, cut a tooth off, then welded it back in, became 2)
Wouldn't read ~anything with a tooth removed, works to >12k shaft speed with it filled in.

I did find a small rat shack clamp-on ferrite around the cable eliminated an occasional random sync glitch---they can do no harm. I also put on on the power feed to the coils to prevent HF backstreaming.
They can fix hard to fix weird stuff.

A 009 case/cap has room for a 60-1 32 pitch gear "wheel", I couldn't convince the fellow on TOS more was better.

[MarioVelotta]

I have 3 different sensors. I should probably try them all to see which one works best. I really want to keep it a "standard" tooth count since it opens up more ECU's that is is compatible with. Changing the tooth count to an odd 36-2 might limit me to MS which can be an option when I have trigger wheels made but initially it will probably be on the back burner. UNLESS one of the other sensors pick it up better

[Piledriver]

The 36-2 was an accident, just explaining that it still worked.(On MS2-e or MS3, anyway)

If I hadn't cut a tooth out first it would have been easier, and a 36-1.

If I go there again it could be a 60-1, and if I use a Mallory (ball bearings, yum) it could be a 72 or 76-1.

Beyond a certain tooth count you are nuking rubble, though.

I'm using a '667 with a RC trucks steel spur gear. (not even nice square teeth)

[Piledriver]

You'd buy it because it replaces the crank trigger wheel and sensor along with the cam wheel and trigger. So, cost would be about half for a full sequential setup.

This is why Mario is currently working in a multi tooth trigger wheel for his Mini Cam Sync body. One system that replaces 2 systems in a very clean package.

It is also as fast to install and set up as replacing a distributor... perhaps easier.
To set base timing/get running, set the MS timing to 10 BTCD (fixed) aim the timing light with no delay, turn the distributor until it is as desired and tighten the clamp---done.
Sort of like old school but can run a set of sequential COPS.

[Max Welton]

Beyond a certain tooth count you are nuking rubble, though.

Nuking Rubble. I'm gonna use that one some day.

Max

[Bruce.m]

If you are using a similar type of sensor to Pile, it works on comparing two sensor points 2.2mm apart. The output is based on the difference between the two readings. If you use a very small wheel the 2.2mm could coincide with the tooth to tooth distance and you will get minimal or zero output.

[Piledriver]

If you are using a similar type of sensor to Pile, it works on comparing two sensor points 2.2mm apart. The output is based on the difference between the two readings. If you use a very small wheel the 2.2mm could coincide with the tooth to tooth distance and you will get minimal or zero output.

It does a bit more in addition to that, but the fact that I'm using with ~pointy gear teeth could be a feature.
The end flats on the teeth are quite small compared to the gap.