LS2 Wiring and connectors

[Piledriver]

Buy the hot-glue sealed prefabricated crimps and just crimp and heat to get a waterproof, strain relieved, excellent, reliable connection. I rarely use anything else now.

I have even been using one to extend my throttle cable for many years ~80K miles.

I once considered soldered+crimped good too, was initially taught that.
It's like an audiophile thing and not a physics/reality based decision, I picked up some bad habits but learned better.
I got over it.

if you have garbage grade crimpers/non-waterproof crimps exposed to water, its going to suck no matter what you do.

[vwi_dduvall]

Buy the hot-glue sealed prefabricated crimps and just crimp and heat to get a waterproof, strain relieved, excellent, reliable connection. I rearly use anything else now.

I have even been using one to extend my throttle cable for many years ~80K miles.

I once considered soldered+crimped good too, was initially taught that.
It's like an audiophile thing and not a physics/reality based decision, I picked up some bad habits but learned better.
I got over it.

if you have garbage grade crimpers/non-waterproof crimps exposed to water, its going to suck no matter what you do.

Solder and crimp is still used by many into ham radio.

[Piledriver]

Solder and crimp is still used by many into ham radio.

Only if they are "old school" and too stubborn to learn anything.
Different application, anyway.

Ham radio gear is usually not bouncing down the road at 70 mph its entire life.
Its almost always stationary.

That's also where I learned the "wrong" way.

I'll repeat: A properly made crimp is a cold weld.

If you can't make a GOOD crimp, soldering it wight be a temporary improvement, but on a properly done crimp its adding damage.

[vwi_dduvall]

OK now that we got that out of our systems
I need info on where to get the LS2 plug wire end to put on the coil side.
boot and metal part.
I have been searching but can not seem to get the rite words or something.

[vwi_dduvall]

OK now that we got that out of our systems
I need info on where to get the LS2 plug wire end to put on the coil side.
boot and metal part.
I have been searching but can not seem to get the rite words or something.

Would this be the one?

http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1
And any suggestions on the crimp tool for this?

[Piledriver]

I used the "long" plug cables for a HD twincam, $3 ea at any dealer (when I bought them). 11 in long.

Coil end rubber boot is a stretch fit, but works fine.

On the T4 i swapped out the plug end for long straight boots/ends from a used set of ford plug wires, but on a t1 they would be perfect as-is.

[vwi_dduvall]

I used the "long" plug cables for a HD twincam, $3 ea at any dealer (when I bought them). 11 in long.

Coil end rubber boot is a stretch fit, but works fine.

On the T4 i swapped out the plug end for long straight boots/ends from a used set of ford plug wires, but on a t1 they would be perfect as-is.

I have a set of brand new wires I just need to swap out the coil end I do not min cutting the existing ends off and crimping new ones on.
I might even be able to find my set of Accel crimps, that is maybe still unpacking from the move from a year ago

[Piledriver]

IIRC the LS2 coil ends are interchangeable with the late model VW coil pack bits, but the LS2 coil stuff is pretty common.
Just make sure to use resistor wires.

[Max Welton]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/46069/10002/-1
And any suggestions on the crimp tool for this?

I used this:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/170040/10002/-1



Max

[Piledriver]

Interesting...
Hit Jegs to take a look at that and there this was:
http://www.jegs.com/p/MSD-Ignition/MSD- ... 9/10002/-1

Looks exactly like a Paladin 8000 series crimper rebranded
(The Paladin handle//ratchet "oops" quick release mechanism is patented IIRC)
http://www.youdoitelectronics.com/Paladin/ for the rest of available die

The additional specialized MSD die will be a welcome addition for folks who do a lot of auto wiring or have a tool fetish.
(The AMP, "Weathertight", and Deutsch terminals mostly, the existing Paladin selection of sizes is limited for the F type terminals)

[vwi_dduvall]

IIRC the LS2 coil ends are interchangeable with the late model VW coil pack bits, but the LS2 coil stuff is pretty common.
Just make sure to use resistor wires.

You mentioned resistor wires the ones I have are a set of bosch ultra-premium opti-layer copper core with the ceramic VW ends of which I plan on retaining.
Remember I am not building a race car with this build just a daily driver so this is my test bed for my bug that will be much more along the lines of a race setup. IIRC the feramic/bakelite ends have a resistance but I am not sure of the amount and I could be recalling incorrectly.

[Piledriver]

So long as the ends are resistor you are OK, its for noise suppression.

[MarioVelotta]

You can start at 19.4 if you wish. Or read the whole thing if your bored

NASA approved wire splices
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf

[Piledriver]

Great document, but you have to take care to read it all and understand that there are times and places when a solder joint makes sense... Size, minimal weight, they don't make that sort of crimp etc.

Before reading 19.2 as a justification for soldering everything, first read 13.3 which explains why solder joints are a Bad Idea if given a choice, and the exact explanation I gave previously as to why, as well as how to to make them survive if you absolutely must solder.

Note that NASA doesn't generally build cars.

Solder joints in wiring harnesses, in a car, are still a very, very bad idea.

Fortunately I read quickly.

[Dale M.]

Big fan of western union splices and solder joins, in my landscaping wiring for my irrigation systems.... For the CAR only properly done crimp.... Besides its a pain in the A$$ to try and solder wires under a dashboard of a car....

Dale