T3 megasquirt II conversion

[Max Welton]

It turns out the pin Mario used for spark-B has no wire on the old harness I'm using. Oh well.

But DIY has a little $3 kit for adding a pin to their DB37. While I'm waiting for that I have the MS set to 'single coil' and am driving around with the IGN wire looped over the back seat and under the engine cover to the coil. It works! Using a timing light I was able to dial in the offset so that the advance happens right where MS says it is. Way cool!

Max

[MarioVelotta]

Ahhhh yeah!

[Piledriver]

It turns out the pin Mario used for spark-B has no wire on the old harness I'm using. Oh well.

......
Max

"The nice thing about standards is there are so may to pick from "
Tannenbaum, Author of Minix OS and a number of related books.

(AKA The professor who gave Linus Torvalds an F in OS design, as he didn't follow instructions)

[Max Welton]

So I now have the add-a-pin kit from DIY and need to pick a time to take the car out of service and install it.

So with the IGN4 coil-pack, what would be the recommended spark-plug gap? Also, anything in particular I should set for dwell control?

Max

[Steve Arndt]

I run .035" gap, NGK resistor plugs, CB magna wires. 2.5 ms dwell at idle, and I ramp up the dwell based on manifold pressure. (with IGN1 coils)

[Devastator]

I'm running AC spark plugs. .030 gap. These dwell settings with my IGN4:

DWELL.JPG

[Max Welton]

Very cool Guys. Thanks.

Max

[aircooledtechguy]

I've got EDIS on my car so I don't know how that compares to your coils (you all would know better that I), but I'm running ND Irridium plugs with a gap set in the .040"-.045" range on my 2056cc T-4. I can't remember exactly what I set it to now as it was a couple years ago. . .

Getting old sucks; I don't recommend it.

[Max Welton]

“Getting old is not for sissies.”
― Bette Davis

Max

[Max Welton]

Done. The only hitch was hooking up sparkA and sparkB backwards.



Max

[Max Welton]

Well ... not quite done.

The engine starts great and runs fine ... for a few minutes. Then it shuts down. If I cycle the MS (key off, then on), it will again fire right up and run for a little while before shutting down again. I've posted my problem in the msextra forums.

http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 75#p377060

Note that I've been driving it for about a week in single-coil mode without a hitch. So this has something to do with the switch to wasted spark. I do have the MS3 I got for the KG that I can plug in and try. If it works that should rule out the harness and IGN4.

Max

[Devastator]

I had the same problem when I first switched to Hall sensor, wasted spark, 36N1 wheel, MS2Extra, and a second coil driver. The sensor I used, (from DIY), does not like temperatures over 250F or a gap over .04. After modifying my Hall sensor mounting bracket several times in order for it to cool better, (see build thread), I discovered that the bracket was getting just hot enough for the sensor to pull away from the wheel, increasing the gap, and shutting down. Let it cool, and it would run fine again. Reducing the gap cured this. My current gap is around .020, and it never skips a beat now. Hope this helps.

[Max Welton]

Thanks. But I triggered off this VR for 5 days of daily driving and this ECU without a hickup. So I think that part is solid.

What I will do tonight is take the top off the MS-2 enclosure and aim an IR thermometer at the various components (the new coil driver in particular) and look for hot-spots. I will also take the external temp of the IGN4 while I'm at it.

Another thing I know is that ignition and fuel are both going away together (consistent with ECU processing stopping). I know this because the engine isn't flooded when I go to restart it.

I will also plug the MS3/MS3X box in and see if it does any better. The MS3 ECU also uses pin-6 for spark-B. So Mario got it right.

Max

[Devastator]

Thanks. But I triggered off this VR for 5 days of daily driving and this ECU without a hickup.

My bad. I thought you were using the DIY hall sensor.

[MarioVelotta]

I finally had a few minutes to look over your logs and MSQ. Looks like you upgraded firmware, did you go through and verify all the settings? You made a large firmware jump.

In the logs your MAP is jumping upto 255 right before you loose sync.

The next thing is ignition setup. VR should be falling edge. Otherwise you will get the double missing tooth.

The 182° trigger angle may be playing a part in the madness. I didn't think it would work that far off.

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