36-1 and crank sensor

[clintonddk]

Alright guys. I'm getting somewhat frustrated. I am having a sync issue with my setup. I am running a Ford f150 trigger wheel along with a 94 dodge Durango hall sensor. The sensor is used and seems to work but I think it is real touchy. I'm wondering if I should replace it with a new sensor or if there is something that may work better with the Ford tooth wheel?

[66brm]

Can you log any issues? is it resetting or dropping out? pics may help

[clintonddk]

I had someone view the tooth log and he ruled out the sensor as the problem. I need to run some more logs to see if the tooth logger can capture the loss in sync.

[markvwguy]

How is the wire technique? You want to twist the pairs (it cancels noise) also over the twisted pairs use braided shield ground the shield at ECU. VR return terminated at pin 1 or 2 in the DB37. Noise can be an issue.

This is my current se up. ford 36-1 from a focus. the VR is also ford. It might be also focus I can't remember its been so long ago. I was having ignition jumping around. After changing the wiring technique I have not had problems.

Mark

[Piledriver]

Any VR setup is very noise sensitive, you can and should buy shielded twisted pair...or if you have an audio shop around Canare Star-Quad mic cable, its like dual twisted pair and is ~roadie resistant, has foil and high coverage % braid. Very good stuff, 4 wires, 2 pairs, Google for how to use properly. (you end up with one pair, each with a 180 out pair wired together, very noise resistant)

Only ground the shield at the MS end.

I gave up on VR sensors, not worth the trouble to save 5 bucks.

[gtmdriver]

I'm running a MS 2 V3 with a Ford sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel. I had no signal at all till I adjusted the air gap to 0.030" and wound both VR conditioning pots fully anti-clockwise. I immediately got a strong signal with full sync lock and, so far, it has stayed like that.

[markvwguy]

I'm grounded at the block, maybe I should swap the shield to pin2, as I have seen the DIY harness does terminate at the ECU. I'm building a new engine harness my setup is so old it's in need of a refresh.
I will also attempt using logic coils get high voltage out of the ECU.
Hope I did not give any miss information, just trying to help. I know it can get frustrating trying to get thing working.

[clintonddk]

I am already running a Hall sensor and I used the twisted pair of wires that were left over from my MSD dizzy that I removed. The wires are not shielded. I did however just purchased a 18/4 twisted shielded wire to replace it with. Will this work or should the ground be run separate?

[Piledriver]

A hall sensor needs 3 wires in (almost) all cases, power, gnd and signal
bring all 3 from the ecu.
If in doubt, run power as the extra wire and signal/ground in the twisted pair.
I just use the original coil power wire to feed the hall sensor, also powers the pwm controlled iac, no interference seen.

[clintonddk]

Yes Piledriver, my Hall sensor has three wires I just ran the ground separate from the sensor and power wire. It never occurred to me to run power separate.

[clintonddk]

OK, so I moved some wires around so that the 5v was run outside of the twisted wires and now the ground and sensor wire are the ones that run inside the twisted wire. Now, the engine runs worse than it did before. It has trouble building RPM like it is running out of fuel.
It's been awhile since I wired this project, can someone remind me what the verf is for? I also noticed in my data logs that my clt goes crazy at the same time my RPMs go crazy. CLT is coolant temp correct?

[Piledriver]

vref is a 5v signal that powers your sensors, but you can use 12v to power most hall sensors, it provides a larger signal.

I personally only ground the LS2 coils power grounds at the block, everything else goes back to the ECU or ecu mount plate, which is strapped to the battery neg terminal.

Grounding everything at the block makes sense if you have a Chevy. Maybe.
IMHO, for most ACVW installs, not so much.

[clintonddk]

Thanks Piledriver, I recall having to do a pull up to get my sensor to work. Would that have been done to the verf or to the sensor side and it looks as if I am also running my injectors off of the verf?

[Piledriver]

Thanks Piledriver, I recall having to do a pull up to get my sensor to work. Would that have been done to the verf or to the sensor side and it looks as if I am also running my injectors off of the verf?

Depends on sensor, some have a built in pullup, there is a pullup jumper on MS3X boards, etc.
A pullup is needed for a Hall sensor SOMEWHERE, even if its just built into the sensor.
You need to find out, without one there will be no signal at all

Use 12v if the sensor can do it, better signal to noise ratio and no additional load or noise on vref..

[clintonddk]

I think you may have miss understood my question. I did have to install a pull up. I built it into my MS2. I am wondering if it is on the sensor side or power side?