I saw a post/comment from Piledriver re some glue that was/is used on the circuit boards to help the wires from , I guess , vibration etc when building a circuit that's not on the board itself. I'm assuming this is not your average arts and craft hot glue gun.
Has anyone used this stuff? Is it called something special?
Circuit board glue ?
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Circuit board glue ?
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Re: Circuit board glue ?
I used your average arts and crafts hot glue gun, works just fine.
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Re: Circuit board glue ?
I think I found the post......
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... e&start=45
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... e&start=45
Re: Deserter GS to Suby EJ20 Turbo
Post by Piledriver » Sun Feb 10, 2013 2:08 pm
Don't forget to secure all those wires with 5 minute epoxy, both at the joints and every ~1".
(dusts easy with a soldering iron, but acts as strain relief,prevents vibration-based cracking/borkage at the solder>wire joints... Sometimes even horrible glue has it's uses. Do NOT use hot melt if you ever may need to fix it later)
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Re: Circuit board glue ?
I'm not even sure how one would apply 5-min epoxy to those little connections?? You barely have enough time to mix it up, let alone trying to "dab" it where wanted. Use a toothpic? I'd think you just want the smallest amount you could place around the solder joints.
Any close-ups of said epoxy applied to the joints?
Hypodermic application through a needle would seem to be the most ideal applicator - ALA you can do everything you need in about 1 minute!
Jeff
Any close-ups of said epoxy applied to the joints?
Hypodermic application through a needle would seem to be the most ideal applicator - ALA you can do everything you need in about 1 minute!
Jeff
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Re: Circuit board glue ?
They make 10 minute epoxy if you move too slowly.
You can mix up a little bit at a time... HD Ziplock bags work great as mixing "trays", and are reusuable.
Toothpicks would work.
The idea is install/route all the wires, test it, THEN lock everything down in one pass before actual use.
I prefer 5 minute epoxy, as touching it with a hot soldering iron "dusts" it quickly, allowing rework or mods w/o damage, and can be completely removed if desired.. A hot air mini-nozzle like a PACE setup works great for making it let go if you happen to have one...
The longer setting time epoxies are stronger, harder to remove, and ...take longer to set, which is a drag if you are sitting there holding down a wire. Scotch tape is your friend.
Hot melt glue works great once, but cleaning it off for mods/repairs/rework can make a huge mess.
If you are only going to do it once and never need to fix anything, hot melt rocks.
For people that may want to fix stuff, use the epoxy.
The sole purpose for either is strain relief. Either method works, just do not skip it.
Also: Use 30 ga Kynar insulated wire wrap wire for signal jumpers, not the 20 ga+ std wire you usually see folks use...
Works perfectly for the optional MS2 CPU pin jumpers. (for table switch and ethanol sensor)
Note if you are planning the full sequential thing on an MS2 std mainboard, there is an easy wire and mainboard-mod free adapter board that routes an MS2 to an MS3x... All the configuration is done on the adapter board.
Google Ms2Xt, or search on msextra directly.
It can be done in a std single-height MS2 box.(so can an MS3 + MS3X) if you can make new end caps.
You can mix up a little bit at a time... HD Ziplock bags work great as mixing "trays", and are reusuable.
Toothpicks would work.
The idea is install/route all the wires, test it, THEN lock everything down in one pass before actual use.
I prefer 5 minute epoxy, as touching it with a hot soldering iron "dusts" it quickly, allowing rework or mods w/o damage, and can be completely removed if desired.. A hot air mini-nozzle like a PACE setup works great for making it let go if you happen to have one...
The longer setting time epoxies are stronger, harder to remove, and ...take longer to set, which is a drag if you are sitting there holding down a wire. Scotch tape is your friend.
Hot melt glue works great once, but cleaning it off for mods/repairs/rework can make a huge mess.
If you are only going to do it once and never need to fix anything, hot melt rocks.
For people that may want to fix stuff, use the epoxy.
The sole purpose for either is strain relief. Either method works, just do not skip it.
Also: Use 30 ga Kynar insulated wire wrap wire for signal jumpers, not the 20 ga+ std wire you usually see folks use...
Works perfectly for the optional MS2 CPU pin jumpers. (for table switch and ethanol sensor)
Note if you are planning the full sequential thing on an MS2 std mainboard, there is an easy wire and mainboard-mod free adapter board that routes an MS2 to an MS3x... All the configuration is done on the adapter board.
Google Ms2Xt, or search on msextra directly.
It can be done in a std single-height MS2 box.(so can an MS3 + MS3X) if you can make new end caps.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Re: Circuit board glue ?
I second the hot glue gun dab. A no-brainer.