16X130 wheels

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:00 pm

Where can I fins Wheels in 130 mm bolt pattern and maybe 16X6
Not much choice as I have found on my own

Post by **Marc** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 3:09 pm

Never seen any. You could go to 4 or 5x100 or 5x130 either with adapters or drums/rotors that are made for this, then you'd have many more choices.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=101215
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=97926

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:30 pm

So it seems, the original bolt pattern being 4X130 doesn't give one any alternatives. Changing the drums/rotors bolt pattern opens up the possibilities , now the spare needs to be replaced as well to fit the new bolt pattern. Rats

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:37 pm

So it seems, the original bolt pattern being 4X130 doesn't give one any alternatives. Changing the drums/rotors bolt pattern opens up the possibilities , now the spare needs to be replaced as well to fit the new bolt pattern. Rats

Post by **Marc** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:49 pm

We've got a couple bugs in the "fleet" that have been converted to 5x130, the spare's not a big problem - just keep an eye out for deals like this on eBay as we did:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche- ... enameZWDVW
I carry mine aired up rather than hassle with an aerosol can that could be dead in my moment of need - still fits easily in a bug spare tire well.

I'm sure you could find equally good deals on 4x100 or 5x100 spares too.

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Mon Jun 12, 2006 7:51 pm

Thanks, Marc. I start looking for a set of front rotors today in that pattern

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:05 am

Saw some nice looking rims on ebay from a Boxster.
They are 16X6 and 16X7
Wonder if they will fit

Post by **Marc** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:38 am

They'll fit, but it's a little tight with stock fenders. The rims have a lot of backspace (fronts are ET50, rear are ET40) and require the use of spacers to eliminate interference on the inside, the trick is finding spacers that'll do that without pushing the wheels out too far into the fenders.
In the rear you can get away without spacers if you trim a little off of the suspension bump stop on the chassis and grind the head thinner on one of the springplate bolts, installing it with the nut on the inboard side.
Up front you'll need spacers to keep the inner sidewalls from rubbing on the control arm/swaybar; the shock towers also need trimming and rewelding along the edge to get full steering range without interference. With no spacers you'll have a huge turning circle, and you won't be able to install the center caps with the wheelbearing dustcovers in place. They may still need to be flattened out a little; with stock spindles and drum brakes & 8mm spacers I needed to do that plus shorten the tip of the speedometer cable to the bare minimum before the center caps would fit. This left about 3mm of fender clearance, if the front end were to be lowered more than an inch or two there could be a problem. "Drop" spindles will typically add about 7mm per side so you wouldn't want as thick a spacer because of the fender clearance, which means you won't get the center caps in.
If your drums/rotors are studded it'll be obvious that there's enough thread engagement on the lugnuts (6 or 7 threads) but if you're using lug bolts you'll need longer ones for pass-through spacers. Audi 5000 bolts will fit, just be sure that they have the correct "ball" shape to match the seats on the rims because some were conical.
5x130 pass-through spacers are a little hard to find, at least at a good price. Some 924/944s had them stock, but those are a bit too thick.

If yours is a Super some of the above will not apply...

Manny · Post by **Manny** » Wed Jun 14, 2006 1:51 pm

Thanks again, Marc. I saw a posting from "son of marc"that shows some pictures of a very tight installation.
Not a bolt on wheel swap by all means.
I'll have to reconsider wheel sizes.

Manny