68 baja build

[bikesndbugs]

SO i cant just run the full flow pump and return to a stock return. darn i thought i had an idea going there. Ill look to see if i have a dual relief case. and maybe check on a doghouse setup or full flow price.

[dustymojave]

Those oil return via the oil pressure relief/control valves put the oil in under the piston which blocks the flow unless the piston is removed. You then lose oil pressure control. Plus the oil line is then under the engine and exposed to damage with or without a skidplate. Skidplates in use get pushed up when contact is made.

You can use an out/in oil pump to get full flow without drilling and tapping. They aren't as good at oil flow, but they work.

Going out from the pump and back in the oil cooler ports on top of the case bypasses some of the bearings.

Going out and back in at the oil cooler ports only filters and cools about 1/3 of the engine's oil flow. The biggest negative to using a doghouse cooler is that issue of 1/3 flow.

An early style steel oil cooler in the left side of the fan shroud restricts air flow to the left side cylinders and head. You REALLY NEED to upgrade from that setup.

I use a doghouse plus full flow with an external filter (Wix 51515R - make sure of the 'R' !!!!) and an external oil cooler. Thus I get full filtering and external cooling, with added cooling with full time air flow even when the car is stopped, like at stop lights or heavy traffic, or when stopped or moving slowly on the trail.

But if the engine is getting hot climbing hills on the I8 freeway, which are not nearly as bad as I15 Cajon Pass or 5-Mile Grade on I5 or even Hiway 14 from LA to Palmdale, there is something else wrong. This is winter. It SHOULD climb those grades OK in summer heat without having to pull over.

Your air flow over the cylinders may be blocked with leaves or other debris on the fins (have to remove the fan shroud and cylinder tins to check that). A screen on the intake will help that in the future. EMPI sells a screen for the fan intake on pre-doghouse shrouds. For doghouse shrouds, one has to fabricate their own screen.

The timing may be too advanced. I recommend 28-30° max advance checked with a timing light and 3000RPM.

Keeping it in too high of a gear and too low of RPM will also make it run hot.

Low on oil (2.75 quarts with no external filter or cooler) or wrong oil (too thin or too thick) can make it run hot.

Premium gas may help.

Did the engine ping when you thought it was hot?

[Piledriver]

A Baja also has aerodynamics about equal to a barn door, so it may just be a matter of slowing down a bit.

If you ditch the in-housing oil cooler you can return at a modified adapter installed there, but requires external pressure relief setup and is just not worth it for a stock engine.
One of the in<>out pumps will be far easier.

[bikesndbugs]

Timing is set static at like 7.5%. It doesn't idle either so i need to clean the carb and timing may be off it might have moved. Didnt hear any pinging. There is quite alot of sludge on the motor fins might not be properly cooling it im gonna get some engine degreaser and powerwash it. hope to get some sludge off.


SO what would be the easiest and cheapest way to get better cooling? I already the oil filter block so that might be nice to have but that requires an external lines and that properly done is full flow. full flow is beyond my personal ability and that means paying for labor and thats expensive.

I was just learning how to get up hills in it on the way there so wrong gear may be some. The way back it did great.

Now its gotta go about 5 miles one way to school and will be all streets so the cooling isnt super urgent as it works fine now.


I found more rust holes in the floor so that needs fixed. i want to bedliner the inside from about dash down after i patch it.


Most likley just gonna get the webber progresive working and properly jetted and put that on.

[Leatherneck]

One way to make it run cooler is to make sure timing is correct. Make sure all your Tin is correct, holes sealed, stock oil cooler clean, not clogged. That is a start, if you already have all of that then it's going to start costing with external lines, cooler and fan.

[Marc]

I used one of those in-and-out pumps on the stock 1600DP I had in my trike when I went to Sturgis in 2015 - didn't have time to do it right because of family obligations and I wanted to have some kind of oil filter for the trip.
That pump was too big (like 30mm) - they make them that way in an attempt to compensate for the restriction caused by the tortuous path the oil has to take through the pump and the ¼-NPT fittings - which made the oil pressure too high. With the stock springs in place, most of the time the bypass valve was open to allow oil to go straight to the main galleries without ever passing through the cooler - I had 60+ psi oil pressure most of the time, even in 100° weather, but had to keep one eye constantly on the oil temperature and slow down when it started getting too high. Of course I didn't discover this until hundreds of miles from home, too late to do anything about it.

In 2016 I made the same trip with a properly full-flowed 1849cc engine (using a stock 21mm 111 115 107AK pump) and had no issues at all - even though I was often going 25-30 MPH faster than the year before.

The in-and-out pump/filter setup is better than nothing, I suppose, but if I ever try running one again it'll be with a higher-pressure spring at the pulley-end control valve to push more oil through the cooler.

Hopefully you have a dual-relief case, and converting to the doghouse cooler setup will be sufficient so there'll be no need to add another cooler. There's not much you can do to prevent spent hot air from recirculating into the cooling fan on a Baja. Some folks claim to have good results by leaving the front (firewall side) sheetmetal off to allow more "new" air in, but that's only going to work at high speeds - when stopped or poking about it'll only let more hot air from below return to the fan, IMO you want to leave that in place (including the two pieces of ductwork that make the oil cooler's spent air dump out over the transaxle).

[bikesndbugs]

Ill start saving up and finding ideas for oil cooling.
It wont idle at all right now i think its the carb i might just rebuild the progressive and get it properly jetted and run that as its bigger and smaller.
Holes in floor are gonna get caulking in them for now just to seal them and they will get patched after
DOnt have another desrt trip planned for a long time so im just gonna hold off on skidplates.
gonna get a front bumper made though and setup for a skidplate that wont go on yet.

[bikesndbugs]

Car Still wont idle and its getting annoying ive sprayed carb cleaner in the carb many times tried to spray it in the jets set the idle screws. tried the plug the top method for cleaning and to check for intake leaks it instantly dies even when on throttle. Seat broke today the rear cross bar with all the linkage broke off so i swapped passenger to drivers and vise vesa. Started my tig class today it seems really cool. I have an 009 dizzy now im looking for a cheap svda and then put the progressive carb on.


I might just keep the 009 and rebuild the pict 34


Currrently it wont idle at all it just dies doesnt even try to really idle occasionally it will idle fpr a second


Think its a clogged jet?

[Piledriver]

On a stock carb it only takes a few seconds to find out.

just loosen it a crack and see if the idle takes off.

[bikesndbugs]

just loosen it a crack and see if the idle takes off.

What is this im loosening. the idle.

Ive tired to turn up the bigger screw to speed up the idle and it does nothing because it wont stay runnning if i dont rev it occasionally.

Am i good to pull the carb top off and not replace the gasket on it?

[Marc]

...Think its a clogged jet?

At the top of the suspect list. Induction leak is equally probable. If you hold the choke plate slighty closed does it idle? Confirmation that you have a lean condition for some reason.

IF the carb top gasket doesn't tear apart when you remove the top, it's usually reusable. Not like the float-bowl gaskets on a Holley 4-bbl which are constantly wetted with fuel.

If the idle/pilot jet or its passages are partially plugged, this usually helps:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=133214&p=1036404&h ... l#p1036404

[Piledriver]

Loosening the idle fuel jet allows it to pass fuel even if plugged.
If it kicks "on" its plugged, or the circuit (usually the jet)
its on the outside of the carb.

You don't happen to have a fuel cutoff solenoid type fuel jet?
IIRC that was std when new, those have been known to fail, and have usually have a tiny setscrew to force them open built in. of course they can also get plugged... Pictures help...

The "hand choke" method does sometimes slurp the booger out, but if it doesn't work on the first couple tries, move on.

[bikesndbugs]

So today I was driving and it randomly started iddling. It was really high so i pulled over to mess with it got it down to a nice idle then went to drive away and around 2500 rpm it falls on its face so i pull off to a side street clutch in and rev it a couple of times then go down the hill i just went up and then it runs good again accept no idle so im 90 percent sure its something stuck in there. Im gonna pull it off after school tomorrow and see if i can get it cleaned

I pulled the outer idle jet screw off today and tried to spray it in some but it didnt do anything ill try some more tomorrow as i have a few hours between school and my tig class.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

How does your float level look and also the codition of the needle and seat. They may not be the problem but something that should be checked regularly as the can go bad especially if the car has sat for a while.

Lee

[bikesndbugs]

Ill go check that now. Im usually pretty good at figuring things out myself but as far as carbs go its like rocket science i just really struggle with it.


Even with the naming and locations im pretty lost. I know some like what a float is and such but how this stuff works im all lost.