***Leathernecks rail ***

[Leatherneck]

Ok so I am waiting on shims from DSM, so to keep myself busy I have started putting the Turbo back on.

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Some pics are for my sole enjoyment

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[Leatherneck]

Shock shims should be here next week, plenty to do in the mean time.

Exhaust on, feed and return oil lines to turbo are on, velocity stacks off and turbo hats on, boost sensitive fuel regulator on, fuel return line hooked up, added a brace from exhaust to frame to help with the weight and movement Soon as I make sure no oil or fuel leaks I will weld up the exhaust outlet. Maybe tomorrow. Good times.

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[Piledriver]

Looking great!
You need some short velocity stacks, any radii at the inlet flows much better than straight tubes.
Intercooler?

[Leatherneck]

I'll try with the hats then try the stacks see if any difference. Won't be running a intercooler, don't have a good cooler air place to put it. Working on the exhaust now.

[sideshow]

I don't think those are velocity stacks, they look like “Modulator rings” that CB suggests using to ? I'm guessing here ? normalize pressurized carburetors. Not everything in life can be adjusted by bits.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7368.htm

[Piledriver]

Add a venturi/restriction? Does look like `em tho.
My Webers will probably never see fuel again unless I hide the injectors in the air cleaners.

[Leatherneck]

I don't think those are velocity stacks, they look like “Modulator rings” that CB suggests using to ? I'm guessing here ? normalize pressurized carburetors. Not everything in life can be adjusted by bits.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/7368.htm

No those aren't Velocity stacks, took those off with the other NA stuff.

Received my Red shock oil and #40 shim stacks in the mail, Not bad for ordering late Thursday. First time dealing with Down South Motorsports, will be dealing with them again.

[CentralWAbaja]

Is it done yet?

Get to work!

[Leatherneck]

Is it done yet?

Get to work!

Lol, ok. Getting closer, have intake to Turbo done and Turbo to Carb done, oil lines I hope done, exhaust done except for Turbo out, still have to weld O2 bung to it, now I have to work on Vacuum lines. Turbo to boost gauge, intake to blow off valve setting then to blow off valve, fuel pressure to somewhere on Turbo. Huh, ok

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I know, get busy

[Leatherneck]

Notes for me

Blow Off Valve, Manifold Air Pressure, Fuel Pressure Regulator, and Boost Gauge are after the butterfly in the manifold. The Wastegate will be before the butterfly in the charge pipe.

Edit: When I was referring to the above items, I was referring to their vacuum lines, not the actual items. (i.e. Blowoff valve is mounted in the charge pipe after the turbo but before the TB butterfly, and the wastegate is mounted in the exhaust prior to the turbo.[/quote]
What is larger than stock needle and seat , how can I tell if I have that already ?
I have this motor on a run stand and it does not sound to bad , but does not want to idle .
After the vavle adjustments it runs better . Do I remove the hats and adjust like NA then put hats back on ?
Will it show boost on a run stand ? I still need to hook up gauges so I can see
Will a AFR guage help the kind with red and green LED's ? Not much of tail pipe to mount O2 do I add pipe from turbo to mount 02 and how much ?

Your carbs probably have a 150 or 1.50mm inlet valve(needle and seat), you can pull the needle out of it and cross-drill holes so fuel can flow more easily past the needle when it's trying to let fuel into the bowls. Or you can google around and find some 2.00 or 2.50 inlets. Your 150s will probably be OK for moderate boost levels.

The idle circuits on these Dells are known for getting plugged up easily. It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and give them a careful, thurough cleaning and make sure you clean or get new air and fuel filters to help keep things clean. Idle circuits have a lot to do with part throttle fuel metering also, it'll be a bit moody off idle and cruising also with idle jet/circuit issues.

Starting with a valve adjustment is a good idea. Make sure your ignition components are in good condition also, turbos need good ignition. If you need to swap jets, you're gonna have to pull the carb hats off, but I'd "tune" it with everything assembled, like it will be when your driving it around. Those hoses in the pics above look kinda wierd. They're connected to the ported vacuum fittings at the base of each carb, which you'd need to connect together (all 4) in order to get a vac signal to the vac advance on a distributor to function correctly. Unless you're running a distributor w/vac advance, just plug all 4 of those fittings @ the carb bases and the 2 holes in the hats as well. I can't see how routing them to the carb hat is going to improve anything. If anything it would seem to lean out part throttle driving, which wouldn't ever be on boost with that little throttle opening. Maybe you can contact the PO and find out his/her secret for that odd setup.

I doubt you'd see any boost just free-reving the engine. The turbo needs a load on the engine to create enough exhaust flow to spool up the turbine. A boost/vac gauge is a great idea to have though. It would need to be plumbed into the manifolds BELOW the carbs. Many setups just tap one intake runner and the boost gauge probably will have a small orifice to restrict the vac/boost pulses from a single cylinder's input. Another option is to tap all 4 intakes BELOW the carbs and route them to a common chamber, like a small plenum that can be tapped into for a signal to a blow-off valve also(works off vacuum).

A wideband AFR is the way to go for tuning these things. The "gauges" with red and green LEDs only tell you your rich or lean, not exactly how much you are on either side of stoich (14.7:1 @sea level). You need to be able to accurately measure How rich you are to get a safe, reliable tune in it. Either make a new tail pipe or add to the one you've got for tuning. Some have successfully tuned with the wideband O2 sensor in the collector, right before the turbo also. I think either way works in our ACVWs.

If you don't already have some kind of boost referenced fuel pressure regulator, you need to get one. It needs to get it's signal from somewhere ABOVE the carbs (higher boost than the engine "sees", and never gets vacuum!). The safest bet is to run a pump that can make more than enough fuel pressure and a regulator that bypasses unused fuel back to the tank. This way you've got excess fuel on tap for whenever boost is made and the carbs need to keep up with fuel demands

I have the turbo hose line ( on the housing) to the Waste gate.
I then have 1 line from each carb, I taped into the intake and added a hose barb (under carb) the 2 hoses connect. I then tee off from there. The hose sees both boost and vacuum . I will call the main hose point 1. (note some make a box or use a PVC pipe for central signal of boost // vacuum) From point 1 I will have hoses teed to, MAP, fuel pressure regulator, pressure gauge, BOV, Pressure switches for alki injection.


you need pressure regulator and BOV. others are upgrades.
you can just take the pressure off any place you wand but you need a vacuum from under the carbs. This is why it is best to take all signals from under the carb.
Dont take pressure from under carb to Waste gate. Make sure you add a filter to your BOV as sand can be sucked back in the intake before it closes.


oil lines are easy. from the pressure switch to turbo back to slump or valve cover or fuel pump block off plate. Many reasons to do and not do each point. pick one. I say block off plate or 1 - 2 valve cover. As that side sees less oil at high RPM compared to other side.. Bad point is can brake off. Mine goes to the thin slump. I have a skid plate to protect it and it makes it easy to drain oil.
You want a large fuel line to regulator. A return line to tank ot just add a tee to the main fuel line and connect it. The fuel needs to have a place to go when not needed. A high flow fuel pump is needed . at least 20 lbs fuel pressure for 17 lbs boost.

Ah, well, with my engine (blow-through dual throttle bodies) the bottom 4 (still open as the engine is out) go to the 4 connections I made in the manifolds, under the throttle plates.
One goes to the MAP sensor, one goed to the fuel pressure regulator for boost signal reference and one goed to the turbo boost gauge. I have 7 named so far. The 8th is blocked for now, but is meant for a connection when I dyno the engine so the boost will also show on the print-out
Well I finally got round to making mine too, very easy and inexpensive to make. Plastic plumbing waste pipe and 1/4" barbs

[madmitch]

Lookin' good

[Leatherneck]

Lookin' good

Hey Mitch, how have you been doing? you ready to make a run soon?

[Leatherneck]

Once more, it lives. For now click on the first link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FACMqyK ... e=youtu.be

[Piledriver]

On the boost gauge left of zero typically is vacuum, clockwise is boost.

[CentralWAbaja]