My first type4, probably 2056

[TZepeSH]

DONE! I used the gas torch a bit more. Before, I only heated for 1min max as I feared the case would distort if I heat it up only locally. Now I tried to spread the heat more, but insisted around the studs area. Less than 5 minutes were enough and the case was not that hot, I could almost keep my hand on it.

Now I have to read what oil galley plugs I have to take out and what tap and threaded plug I have to use for each hole. If you have suggestions, please recommend, I am sure there were several topics on this subject.
I found on aircooled.net a "kit" containing the threaded plugs for type4: (1) 1/8 NPT, (5) 1/4 NPT, and (5) 3/8 NPT.
And I have to get the case in the dishwasher to clean it. Is there anything else to put inside apart from the dishwasher tablets? Vinegar? Something else?

[Clatter]

Stoked to see your build coming together!
Post up some pics!

There is the full spec on galley plugs buried in my build thread; tap drill sizes and all.

[Piledriver]

Cool.

The stuff in dishwasher packets is pretty corrosive, I yank it and do a scrub/rinse in the bathtub with hottest water I can stand as soon as it starts dry cycle, then take it outside and blow dry with the blow gun.
If you leave it in with puddles for long it can at least discolor the aluminum.

Don't bother doing the cleaning until the oil passage plugs are out, and holes tapped and tested for correct depth.

[TZepeSH]

I'll start taking pictures. I am usually lazy about this aspect but it's important also to me to keep track of what I'm doing.
Clatter, I was just thinking I read some time ago a good topic of step-by-step rebuild, and just by a quick search on galley plugging your topic came on view. Very good info in there! I started to re-read it all.
Pile, thanks for the tip. I'll do as you recommend. I wanted to give it a bath before tapping for plugs, to work on a clean case. After tapping, of course, another bath to remove all traces of metal fragments. If i'm thinking well, it's better to give the second bath after I get the case back from line boring (it needs to be bored to the first rebuild dimension, +0.50).
I hope during the weekend I can find the brass plugs and taps and start pulling the plugs.

[Piledriver]

IIRC first cut is .25mm, not .50, just like cranks

[CobraJet]

At the present time I have my 1.7 apart. I'm thinking pull apart the 2.0 and use those innards to build the current one then after it's running use the 2.0 case to spend money for a big engine!

[Piledriver]

You may find the 1.7 case to be in better shape...
Don't decide until you check everything.

[CobraJet]

I was thinking use the 1.7 case because I already have it cleaned and threaded plugs and using the 2.0 crank rods and PC's with any freshening up they might need. The 2.0 is out of a bus and the engine is not seized but it won't do a complete 360, something in the heads is preventing that. Probably use the 1.7 heads as well.

[Piledriver]

...May just be carbon build up fallen off into a pile.
I have been accused of being an optimist...

[CobraJet]

LOL, I like the way you think!

I think there is more to it though. I bought this core and when I got it one valve cover and the intake manifold/injectors on that side were already removed. The guy had it in his shed for years we had to dig it out. Only cost me $50 so no biggie there.

[TZepeSH]

All right, some pictures and questions. First, this is what I'm starting with.

IMG_5539.JPG

IMG_5540.JPG

Now about tapping and plugging. I did not start to pull the plugs yet, I want to be sure I take out what is needed. The kits contain 11 plugs, 1x 1/8, 5x 1/4 and 5x 3/8. I'm counting twelve plugs, one being a larger one in the oil suction galley, but I think this one shall not be replaced. It is marked brown in pictures. In my pictures I marked in blue what I consider to be 1/8, green for 1/4 and red for 3/8. So:
1. 3/8

IMG_5542.JPG

2. 1/4 or 1/8?
3. 1/2? not to be replaced?

IMG_5543.JPG

4,5. 3/8

IMG_5544.JPG

6. 1/4 or 3/8? seems like 1/4 would be ok.

IMG_5545.JPG

7,8. 1/4

IMG_5546.JPG

9. 1/4 Is this even a plug?

IMG_5547.JPG

10,11. 3/4, 12. 1/8 or 1/4?

IMG_5548.JPG

[Piledriver]

#1 should not be plugged _if_ the fuel pump spot is machined and the brass pump pushrod guide is in place.

12 is ~at case sump pressure (oil pressure relief valve sump passage drilling) , and does not need pulled.

7 & 8 are a bit troublesome, as 1/8" is a touch too small and 1/4" is too large.
1/8" needs to be deep set.

If you have a plug for #3, pull it--- or better, _gently_ tap it out from the inside after pulling the oil pickup.
Its only under suction, you will probably be able to tap it back in with a touch of thread sealant or such.
Makes cleaning the pickup passage possible.

[TZepeSH]

Is there any plug I forgot? Which is the plug that should be 1/8?

#1, I would rather tap and plug. There is no brass guide for the fule pump rod (or I do not see it), but I kept the rod.
#12, good to know
#7&8, I will pull the plugs and measure the hole to see what tap to use.
#3, I would not pull if not absolutely necessary. I can clean the passage easily from both directions.

[Piledriver]

#1 will be a PITA, put the pushrod back in and it doesn't flop around do not plug, the guide plugs it.
Otherwise you are doing a deep set plug and an outer plug.

[Clatter]

Are you wanting perfection of cleanliness,
Or insurance against plugs falling out?

1, 4 & 5 are known to fall out,
As are 10 and 11.

The rest come out just to get things clean.

If you have good tanking equipment,
Spend a bunch of time with rifle brushes and whatnot,
Didn't blast the case,
Didn't fill the case full of debris from a failure,
Etc.,
You can likely get things cleaned up nice without removing the other plugs,
However,
It _is_ best to get things as clean as you can.

Most only do those first five..
Your call.