'71 Super Beetle Autocross Build

[ChadH]

The templates work really slick, if you haven't used them before. The program just spits out a template that you print. Cut along the line, and wrap it around the tube. My cheap Harbor Freight notcher will only adjust up to about a 40-degree angle, so the templates are handy for the odd cuts.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Bwahahaha! (no offence meant... for sure) I was talking about something else: the template being use as a directional marker, not as a pattern. I don't know how many times I have cut a bunch of stuff and put them in a pile then forgot which one went where and in what direction it was designed/cut to fit so I would have to sit down and fart around trying to figure it out... time wasting!

The templates like you are using are a good idea and you can get very precise that way. Even some of the "how to" shows aren't that close. Good job again!

Lee

[ChadH]

I finally found some time to get more work done. I made vertical ties to the rear torsion tube. This ended up a big job. I had to hack a lot of sheet metal to get the tube where I wanted it. Then, I had to patch it up, since it's required I have a metal bulkhead between the engine and cabin. The patchwork is very "Frankenstein", made worse since I ran out of gas, and had to weld with flux core. I'll smear seam sealer on it and paint it. I have lots more triangles to add back here, but just ran out of time this weekend.



Also, added the ties to the side of the fender well Here I've double plated the sheet metal. From the outside of the fender well,I'll bring a tie directly down onto the top of the shock mount.

[ChadH]

Lots of triangles. It's starting to get tough to get in there to make nice welds around all the tubes. Doing this makes me really appreciate people who can do perfect "artistic" welding. Also, who needs to go to yoga classes, when your can spend your time struggling between tubes to get at the right angle.

[ChadH]

Installed 3-gallon fuel cell. This should be just enough for a day of Autocross. I had to get this in place before adding strut reinforcement, to be sure it didn't conflict.

[H2OSB]

you're doing fine work, sir

H2OSB

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Looks neat, clean and well thought out.

Lee

[ChadH]

Here's last weekends progress. I owe a lot of my ideas here to looking at 4agedub's build. Mine is not as elegant as his, but it'll get the job done. I had a Facebook friend joke that I should add support to the steering box and idler arm area...but I think he had a good point. If I'm going this far, I might as well add a few more bars from the tunnel over to the arches.

[4agedub]

Looks very good. Have you got front shocks yet? I used KW shocks from Kerscher which fit good, only issue is the spring rate was way too soft.

[FJCamper]

Can't somebody break the image link codes or whatever?

Chad (white bug) and 4AgeDub (red bug) are making the rest of us feel slow and look bad. Not only is that red bug fast, the crew is throwing around fancy racing terms like "spring rates." That's not fair.

Just wait until Road Atlanta (April 20-23rd) when we get the Ghia loose on the track. We'll show everybody spring rates!

http://hsrrace.com/events/2017-events-p ... the-mitty/

FJC

[ChadH]

Right now, all I have are the generic cartridges that came with the Topline setup. I figure I need to actually get the car assembled and running before I spend money on "upgrades."

Currently, I have 100lb springs sitting in the box 'o parts. I have no idea until I get a chance to drive the car, if I'll need softer, stiffer, or what other 10,000 handling tweaks I'll need to consider. On thing to keep in mind: this is an Autocross car, and I'll need that front end to STICK, unlike a road car where high speed stability is crucial.

I'm starting to feel like I'm going overboard with the steel. The chassis will be stiff, but I'm adding a lot of weight to push around.

[Piledriver]

Right now, all I have are the generic cartridges that came with the Topline setup. I figure I need to actually get the car assembled and running before I spend money on "upgrades."

Currently, I have 100lb springs sitting in the box 'o parts. I have no idea until I get a chance to drive the car, if I'll need softer, stiffer, or what other 10,000 handling tweaks I'll need to consider. On thing to keep in mind: this is an Autocross car, and I'll need that front end to STICK, unlike a road car where high speed stability is crucial.

I'm starting to feel like I'm going overboard with the steel. The chassis will be stiff, but I'm adding a lot of weight to push around.

Pick up the std Bilstein inserts and shocks for out back, they can be easily modded into take aparts (the late ones anyway) and DIY revalved at your whim cheaply. I can't remember if you are running 3 bolt or late struts...
Threaded collars etc can be added to the struts (and shocks) on cheap to set corner weights.
A used set of $25 Bilsteins in decent shape work just as well if you are going to rebuild/revalve as new.
ts easy after you do it once.

OTOH you may find that at least initially they work as delivered, until you catch up to what the car can do.

Buying ready to go coil overs somehow adds 5-10X to the cost, and few work any better, unless you spring for Penske/Ohlins or KWs (Only know those by reputation)
Many use the same internal working parts, or interchangeable...
There are probably many Bilsteins out there on racetracks with Ohlins or Penske internal bits here and there...
The 46mm bore size is a standard, even Fox 2.0s...

[H2OSB]

I made my own front coil overs for my own 1303 using mk1 Golf gti strut housings and a Ground Control coil over kit (I did this back in 2000 when there weren't as many easily available coil over kit options). I went with watercooled parts because there are FAR more options available for inserts.

Along the same lines, for my son's 1303, I bought an inexpensive set if coil overs meant for a VW Caddy. They're TUV approved and much nicer than the ones I made for myself. Also, the strut body is threaded along it's entire length. That all said, his car is an early 73 with the three bolt lower mounting. I switched it all over to the later two bolt lower mounting in order to use the coil overs. I just had to use the early style upper strut mount.

Both coil over set ups use 2.5 inch springs, which are readily available from many sources. You can even find them on the Summit racing site for $39 per spring every so often.

H2OSB

[H2OSB]

Delete. Double post

[H2OSB]

Delete. Double post