'71 Super Beetle Autocross Build

[ChadH]

Why do you have a tea strainer on the tool board?

Trying to emulate my heros.



If you haven't seen this build - watch it! You will be impressed and inspired.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHvBHW ... U5tIiEZHBg

[H2OSB]

Love that mini build. Nik is quite a talented fabricator

[ChadH]

Love that mini build. Nik is quite a talented fabricator

I check YouTube every day for a new episode. Progress is painfully slow, but the build is epic. Every episode is worth the wait.

[H2OSB]

Agreed

[Jadewombat]

Yeah, great work they do. Although a little too much use of solid steel (weight) and the electric hood flip is a waste IMHO.

I like how they transferred direct suspension measurements from the donor car to the mini instead of guessing.

[H2OSB]

No matter, that's going to be one solid Mini when they're done

[ChadH]

Yeah, great work they do. Although a little too much use of solid steel (weight) and the electric hood flip is a waste IMHO.

I like how they transferred direct suspension measurements from the donor car to the mini instead of guessing.

In spite of their rhetoric, There's no way they will rally that car and risk smashing it into a fence post. It's really an exhibit of fab skills and just plain 'ol smarts. Given that, the hood is pretty cool.

[ChadH]

A photo-dump of my engine building holiday:



The Engle cam said it was clearance for a stroker. Things are tight, but the flats cast between the lobes give it just enough clearance.





I don't trust the hose-clamped extension that came with the deep sump. The oil pickup was just the perfect size for a brass pipe fitting. I used some 1/2" EMT for the extension, which was also sized almost perfectly.



Not trusting even that, I put a little spot weld between the two. This should be removable (if needed) with just a little grinding on the weld.



CC's the heads. With a 0.04" spacer, the CR is about 9.2:1. I might have the heads flycut about 0.01" to bump it to 9.5:1. I still need to have the valve guides replaced before they are finally installed.



Torqueing the gland nut



Here's where I ended up. Those are some stock-ish 044 heads, just to hold things together until I get the other heads worked on.

[FJCamper]

Interesting torque helper you've got there.

Have you had a chance to use a Torque Master?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 13-16-9602

We have had one of these for years now and there is nothing like them for ease of use. Imagine using a 1/4 inch torque wrench to apply 36 ft lbs, which locks down a gland nut to 350 ft lbs. Or take it off just as easily. You multiply each ft lb x 9 for whatever amount of force you want.

You can carry it in your tool box and quickly repair a leaky flywheel seal at the track.

This thing is amazing.

FJC

[ChadH]

Interesting torque helper you've got there.

Have you had a chance to use a Torque Master?

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... 13-16-9602

We have had one of these for years now and there is nothing like them for ease of use. Imagine using a 1/4 inch torque wrench to apply 36 ft lbs, which locks down a gland nut to 350 ft lbs. Or take it off just as easily. You multiply each ft lb x 9 for whatever amount of force you want.

You can carry it in your tool box and quickly repair a leaky flywheel seal at the track.

This thing is amazing.

FJC

Yes - I've seen them, It's one of those VW specialty tools I haven't gotten around to buying yet. For the time being, I use the following formula:

T=Fg * Ls
Where:
T = Torque (stone-furlongs)
Fg = Fat Guy (stones)
Ls = Long Stick (furlongs)

[ChadH]

Time for an update:

Been super busy with autocross schedule (racing the BRZ), on the board of directors, course set-up, etc. etc.. I haven't had a bunch of free time. I've been picking at the engine, making the tin fit right and a bunch of small suff. Here's where I'm at:



This will all come apart and be re-assembled at least 3 more times, but it's starting to look like something. Need to do taxes, and get heads ordered. CB Panchitos's. I'm hoping for a broad based torque curve, even if I only get 125 peak HP. Whatever. .. I want a sweet looking engine where Honda boys won't even know what their looking at. Brahhhhhhhh..mmmmm.......Braahhhhh....

[H2OSB]

Love it!

[FJCamper]

We used to use the small aluminum breather you have. With ring wear, blowby will blast oil out of the stand-off slots between the breather box and lid. We've lucked into the ultimate breather. The generator stand oil filler neck hole.

We found a hardware store plumbing adapter we could screw into the hole and vented it to a big vented puke tank on the side.

It handles high RPM volume.

Of course we're dry sump and don't use the engine oil filler, but you might be able to figure something out.

FJC

[ChadH]

I honestly thought about using an ammo can for a breather, and welding in a bunch of baffles, but was too lazy to adapt one and figure out where it would go. The hose is overkill for the application, but I already have a bunch of once-used AN fittings..and it looks cool. I never had any breather issues with a similarly spec'd 2110 in a street car, so I'll wait and see what happens. If it pukes, I can re-visit the ammo can idea.

Since we're on the subject, I thought you'd appreciate the custom aluminum breather on my kids' kart. This was recently upgraded to the "light" version.

[Jadewombat]

OK, sorry for the hijack, but what kind of hi-fi speaker is that in the back in your shop? I know that isn't a crap Sony presswood 8ohm MiC disposable tower.