lightened 1.7-1.8 rods rebushed to 22mm pin????

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melvis360
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lightened 1.7-1.8 rods rebushed to 22mm pin????

Post by melvis360 »

i want to know does anyone offer lightened 1.7-1.8 rods? also jake said the 24mm pin is not good for revs plus i thought you could bush it offset to change the rod ratio a tad if you used the 22mm pin this seems like am innexpensive way to build a 1911 that revs on the cheap why don't i see such a rod offered i must be missing something?
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

The lightening takes hours to accomplish. The amount of time it takes to lighten the rod will surely make up the difference in the cost of the stock rod Vs a performance rod. In days past I have spent an entire day lightening and correctly balancing a set of rods!

The cost would exceed almost any wise mans budget unless you have the time to do it yourself.
melvis360
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Post by melvis360 »

so who offers performance rods for a stock 66mm crank?
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

No one...

Of course Pauter will make you a set.

LN Engineering and myself are doing some Billet rods if you are interested.
melvis360
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Post by melvis360 »

those will most likely be out of my price range. i think i will just use the stock rods and keep the rpm under 6500 with good bolts. i have a 1.7 and 1.8 914 longblocks and a cis system off a volvo i'm doing this as inexpensive a possible only spending money on the 1.8 heads to have len work them and a mallory and a good exhaust the rest i will have to wait untill later in life to afford.
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

Sounds like a good idea.. Ensure that the rods are rebuilt WITH THE BETTER BOLTS INSTALLED AND TORQUED!
melvis360
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Post by melvis360 »

i have been planing and reading planing and reading what you and gene berg have to say what the forums were saying. there is alot to take in but with all the information i still like to try to think of a different way to do it to build a unique car/engine is a special thing. it's been 5 years since i aquired my 60 euro bug and i'm only half way there it will have been rebuilt/assembled compleatly every nut and bolt. i am power hungry but i want to be able to enjoy the car for a while before breaking something so a 1911 will have to be enuff for a while. question though have you ever used a cis system in a performance application with or without turbo?
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

Just always remember:

when doing things unconventionally you will hit problems, some of which no one can help you solve... Doing tings the different way is very fulfilling when it works and very heart breaking and expensive when it does not.

Also remember that what is standard today was unique for me to do the first time years ago. Thats simply because I shared the information (a bit too much of it) along the way.
melvis360
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 1:42 pm

Post by melvis360 »

i am very aware of the pioneering work you have done with the type 4 and i am greatfull for all of the information you have shared. if someone wanted to lighten a set of stock rods them self how should they do it and what tools are nessasary to do it right. i have lots of time and two sets of rods so i would like to give it a try. i am amazed with the knowledge you share and just the volume of post you make on this forum. especialy with questions like mine when i make no mention or commitment to purchace anything from you. that really shows you care more about the type 4 and the people using them than making money. i have purchased both bug me type 4 videos and look forward to a performance type 4 video as well as the cali conversion cylinder tin you are doing. will your cali style tin come in both 2.0 and 1.8 sparkplug holes or maybe undrilled and marked ? just a thought as i know i will be using 1.8 914 heads and i don't think the cost vs hp justify having them moved for the engine i'm building and i'm sure there are others out there who will want to use that tin with 1.7 and 1.8 heads. something else i'm very interested in is the roller lifters and cams you are working on and by the time i'm ready to buy those parts it sounds like they may be avaliable? well it's been great chatting with you i look forward to showing my appreication for all your hard work with buying all the parts i do need from you. any eta on the cali tin should i wait for yours or buy the tin from you and build my own you made mention of some cooling benifets with your tin so i would like to wait for yours if there not more than a year out. thanks again.
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type11969
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Post by type11969 »

You could always buy one of jake's 66mm cranks with t1 journals on it, then buy a set of t1 i-beams. Those are nice, lightweight rods. Going this route shouldn't set you back too much, definitely less than a set of custom rods!

-Chris
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

Lightening rods takes a few rotary tools, time and a scale with a jig for balancing them end for end as you go. It is very easy to spend an entire days doing this work and still not be totally finished! Having the rods shotpeened afterward is a necessity for strength.

type11969 had a great idea thats simple, less labor intense and stronger.
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dstar
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Post by dstar »

OK, so who wants an 80mm Okrasa crank ground for stock T4 rods?
I gotta have $400 + shipping........

Don
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

dstar wrote:OK, so who wants an 80mm Okrasa crank ground for stock T4 rods?
I gotta have $400 + shipping........

Don
Quitter.
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dstar
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Post by dstar »

Stripped66 wrote:
dstar wrote:OK, so who wants an 80mm Okrasa crank ground for stock T4 rods?
I gotta have $400 + shipping........

Don
Quitter.
BUWAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAAHA!

Nah! as soon as Speedy gets 1000 miles on his, I'll copy your work.....
:P

I mean't a 80mm DPR crank, the 80mm OKrasa was made for T1 rods.....
:twisted:

Don
Last edited by dstar on Tue Nov 22, 2005 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

dstar wrote:
Nah! as soon as Speedy gets 1000 miles on his, I'll copy your work.....
:P
Who knows which of us will have our engines done first. I just need rods, cam and cam gears to get the shortblock wrapped up. Those, and headwork, DTM, and throttle bodies are really all that's left for my project.

However, I don't see why a successful 1000 miles will matter one way or another. Aside from the known better bearing quality, your chances are just as good having the rods modified as you are having rods rebuilt to stock spec...if your machinist can't hit the mark, either way you're screwed.

Tsk, tsk...
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=94113

Jake's already done it...why should Speedy or I stop you?
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