4 SEATER BUILDUP COST/COMPONENTS

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.

how much did you spend on a buildup (not turnkey) for your 4 seater

$3000-$6000
2
10%
$6000-$9000
5
25%
$9000-$12000
6
30%
$12000+
7
35%
 
Total votes: 20

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shopteacher
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4 SEATER BUILDUP COST/COMPONENTS

Post by shopteacher »

Herin lies the Chronicle of a build and options chosen for better or worse for a 4 seater buildup in Eastern Oregon... far far away from the sandy hills of glamis or florence. WHAT DOES IT COST... WHERE DID YOU GET THAT... WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THAT.... I HAVE ANOTHER OPTION. all great additions to this thread

START WITH A FRAME.. bare bones any way you can get it
Image
this is a 4 seater mid travel chassis with a beamed front end. typical cost $2500 retail welded with torsion

AND THEN

NOTE: everyone knows you can FIND parts much less than you can BUY parts.. some you MUST buy. we are providing this info to help builders and prospective builders to formulate a budget before they dive into one and run out of credit cards to max! we submit our parts with retail value even though a lot were donated or offered to our HS shop project at reduced cost.
Last edited by shopteacher on Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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tuff_puff
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Post by tuff_puff »

mine is a 2 seater, but the only diff in price is a couple seats, and a few more feet of tubeing.
building the way i do. i shop, and shop, and shop alittle more. because usualy the stuff i wont is the most expensive. i dont like too cut corners. if i can get something done cheaper but is still as good of quality then i am all for it. but in your guys case. a real "mid travel" i can see spending 8k+ easy. if you stay with all VW stuff (trans, motor, suspension)it should be alittle cheaper.
dont skimp on the seats, and belts. put good controlls (pedals, turning brake,) and everything else should work itself out after that.
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shopteacher
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NUMBERS ONLY

Post by shopteacher »

lets try this concept
PM me the specific numbers for your build based on these parameters
add some if you need to and i will update the sheet
i will make the sheet and upload it here
further down we can discuss FINANCIAL aspects of the various builds
Image

PLEASE start PM'ing me your numbers ASAP
we can go retail or actual cost.. no matter it would be good to see the range
(ZERO for salvage/Gift so the sreadsheet does not freak out)

when you check back.. hit REFRESH on your keyboard to refresh the spreadhseet image
ALSO.. tell me if it takes too long to load or if i missed something
Last edited by shopteacher on Fri Feb 23, 2007 9:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
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fusername
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Post by fusername »

is that the frame you bought? How far are you, and what are your plans for your new baby?
give a man a watch and he'll allways know what time it is. give him two and he can never be sure again.

Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
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shopteacher
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controls with Rack and pinion

Post by shopteacher »

we are using prp comp suspension seats to plant the driver and passengers in their places along with 5 point harnesses ($80 EACH)
Image

no scrimping on the controls
seats ($250-300) for the driver for sure comfort is the key to a fun ride
hydraulic pedals ($300) and a jamar cutting brake along with a sport shifter($70) with reverse lockout.
rack and pinion ($230 with tie rods) and a grant steering wheel with detachable steering wheel bracket ($100)

retail running total
chassis 2500
controls 1900
Steering 330

RETAIL TOTAL $4730
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shopteacher
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CHASSIS NAME?

Post by shopteacher »

our frame is from bakersfield... no name given other than mid travel beamed chassis. the builders in the shop class have many names for it.

Our plans are to build it, drive it, and sell it eventually (summer?) to fund the special projects account at Arlington High School. this fund is specifically allocated for special projects like this. pretty cool.. check the site in my signature line or PM me for detailed links to our IA sites.
fusername wrote:is that the frame you bought? How far are you, and what are your plans for your new baby?
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tuff_puff
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Post by tuff_puff »

i use prp seats in my rail. you will LOVE them! especialy compared to the seats kevin got in his rail last year!
i will try too find you another buyer for the rail this year too. 8)

looks like you guys are on the right track for the rail. one thing you should take into consideration. (i am shure you have allready) is make the seats adjustable on the driver side. you are not building this for a particular person. and even though i have them in my rail. i am not a huge fan of adjustable pedals. the seat might take alittle more work at first. but its WAY easyer when you want too switch drivers.

are you guys going too build a light bar? there are some really cheap HID lights that i just posted a link too. you guys would be a great guinea pig too test them out! ;)
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shopteacher
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seats and sliders

Post by shopteacher »

we love them on the shop floor!
yes... PRP included a driver side slider ($35 option well worth the money). our last rail had poly seats with vinyl covers ... lots of bump for the rump.. these are MUCH better. the builders wanted to make them into chairs for the shop.. i told them wait, you can do your homework IN the car... get to work! LOL

PM me the link for the HID... never hurts to look
we have (4) 55 watt cans to light the way in hand
tuff_puff wrote:i use prp seats in my rail. you will LOVE them! especialy compared to the seats kevin got in his rail last year!
i will try too find you another buyer for the rail this year too. 8)

looks like you guys are on the right track for the rail. one thing you should take into consideration. (i am shure you have allready) is make the seats adjustable on the driver side. you are not building this for a particular person. and even though i have them in my rail. i am not a huge fan of adjustable pedals. the seat might take alittle more work at first. but its WAY easyer when you want too switch drivers.

are you guys going too build a light bar? there are some really cheap HID lights that i just posted a link too. you guys would be a great guinea pig too test them out! ;)
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tuff_puff
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Post by tuff_puff »

http://www.hidfoglight.com/productsAndS ... ights.html


thats the link for the lights.
ya kevin mentioned that his rail gives your back side a work out! lol (god i love my coilovers! )
dezertryno
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Post by dezertryno »

I think a couple items on your cost breakdown are a tad off.

-transaxle...you're going to want to run a 002 minimum. For my chevy 4.3 V6, I had an 091 built, $2600.

-Rear suspension, after bearing, seals, caps, etc, you're going to be at least 1k, and that's cheap. My arms were $600, stubs $150, limit straps, etc. You see where I'm going.

-$2500 for a motor, and you're a HS shop? I'll bet you could do a 2 liter motor (2054, 2076) for alot less on donated parts. And make it a learning tool for the kids. I built my 2076 for $1200. Single weber 44, supertrapp exhaust.

The little things (tabs, seals) will nickel and dime you to death. I'd throw about $400 over to nickel and dime stuff.
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turboblue
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Post by turboblue »

I built my 2076 for $1200. Single weber 44, supertrapp exhaust.
I'd like to see your parts list.
And what was new and used.
Gary

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shopteacher
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Post by shopteacher »

tru that
YES.. our engine that was mostly DONATED was valued at 2500 if it were turnkey bought retail.
nickle and dime.. 400 YA good number.

Complete parts list in process... i thought i would lay them out in posts... to keep them focussed on the location.

the kids(builders) came in today... SATURDAY... and knocked out the floor pan and prepped the driver seat to fit the controls.

we bought our 002 for that much.. 600 plus for them on thesamba

the spreadsheet is total package numbers.. individual breakdowns with prices may not be publicly available for some of the donated and reduced cost items as per the donor's request. relative prices from mooreparts, internet sites, and thesamba.

NOONE PAYS retail for all the parts.. absolutely... we did not by a long shot. as a HS shop we could not afford to do that. most of our parts are either used, salvaged, scavenged, donated, or purchased at reduced cost for the build. check the build website in my sig line for more specifics.

this is good.. keep the dialog going... i will update the spreadsheet with more numbers... i have another builds figures to add from a PM.




dezertryno wrote:I think a couple items on your cost breakdown are a tad off.

-transaxle...you're going to want to run a 002 minimum. For my chevy 4.3 V6, I had an 091 built, $2600.

-Rear suspension, after bearing, seals, caps, etc, you're going to be at least 1k, and that's cheap. My arms were $600, stubs $150, limit straps, etc. You see where I'm going.

-$2500 for a motor, and you're a HS shop? I'll bet you could do a 2 liter motor (2054, 2076) for alot less on donated parts. And make it a learning tool for the kids. I built my 2076 for $1200. Single weber 44, supertrapp exhaust.

The little things (tabs, seals) will nickel and dime you to death. I'd throw about $400 over to nickel and dime stuff.
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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

Hey Shopteach are you going to make your pedals or seats adjustable?
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shopteacher
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seats and pedals

Post by shopteacher »

driver seat is adjustable thanks PRP for the low profile slider for the driver ($38/set retail) included in the seat figure in the spreadsheet above

we have a slider for the pedals but we can only do that with a separate accelerator due to the cable system pulling the carb (roller pedal)
can a sliding pedal system be done with a morse cable (fixed length)?
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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

Should have no problem with a morse cable but if your drivers is adjustable don't add something that you don't need.
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