list of parts suppliers for type IV motors - now w/updates

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hotbug1776
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list of parts suppliers for type IV motors - now w/updates

Post by hotbug1776 » Sat Feb 28, 2004 10:06 pm

I searched with no results, so I am now asking. Where do I go to get parts for my 1700 Type IV motor (made around 72 according to my books). I need everything for a rebuild, and if I split the case, I need to do all my performance stuff while I'm in there. I also need to do the exhaust, and the carbs. Now for the kicker, I'm on a tight (as a fly's a-hole) budget. I'll even buy good used as long as I can get and keep this motor on the road. Opinions and Advice needed, as this is my first Type IV. thanks

I just picked it up today, and the guy I bought it from said it was covered up in a truck bed. Needless to say, people are liars :evil:

The motor was out in the snow and rain, so the #2 (at least) is frozen up. I'm going to try to free it up and if I can, I'll get the cylinders honed. Other problems are; one of the valve covers was also missing, the distributor was removed, the oil fill was left open and cap discarded, there was no carb and the plenum was left exposed (can we say water bucket?). I have started the teardown, and have done more in the 30 minutes I was able to work on it today than he did in a year. I did luck out in that I got the rear mount with the motor, so all I have to do with that is make the mount mounts :shock: and I'm home free.
Last edited by hotbug1776 on Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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hotbug1776
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Post by hotbug1776 » Sun Feb 29, 2004 1:14 am

that is a good start, thanks.

If I can get the motor freed up, will I be able to run it like that, or would it be a good idea to just plan on a teardown and total rebuild right now? It will push the car further back if I do the rebuild, but I have the "itch" now and want to get on the open road and spank some teenage booty :twisted:

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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro » Sun Feb 29, 2004 8:50 am

You came to the right place. Jake can put a kit together for you that a would provide everything you need for an overhaul + performance upgrade. There was a thread a few days ago that gave the basic kit pricing. At the very least you should tear the whole engine down and check everything out while you are at it. If your budget allows, the ultimate upgrade for performance and reliability, that can be added to any Raby kit, are Nickies: http://www.LNengineering.com/nickies.html.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

Ghost Rider
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Post by Ghost Rider » Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:48 am


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hotbug1776
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Post by hotbug1776 » Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:00 pm

well, I got the haeds off today, I decided to do this due to the fact that I removed the flywheel in an attempt get the motor freed up. Well, I tipped the motor up onto the flywheel end to remove some more of the tin, and a bucket full of water poured out of the rear seal. My dad helped me get the heads off and the cylinders were rusty, the 2 and 4 were locked, and, all were filled with garbage. We managed to free up and remove all the cylinders from 1-3, but 4 won't slide off. it moves in the cylinder, but refuses to come out. We'll continue to try to get it out, but as it looks now, the crank and cam are still clean (surprisingly) but I'll need pistons and cylinders, and heads before the motor is even remotely ready for turning over. I'm thinking 103's for a replacement, and higher end heads. I can get them, but it will take a few months. In the meantime, I can teardown the motor and possibly get it machined.

if I tear down, would it be a good idea to get a performance cam, crank, and rods? All would add to the build time, as I can only save about $150 a week.

One more thing, were the 72 TIV cranks all flanged, mine has 5 bolts holding the flywheel to the crank.

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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro » Sun Feb 29, 2004 9:15 pm

I'd recommend sticking to a 2056 if you're on a budget. A cast-iron 103 engine is not what would be considered reliable, by any means. Stick to boring out your stock cylinders and replacing the pistons, at the very least, with a set of keith blacks- that would be a good starting point.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

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hotbug1776
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Post by hotbug1776 » Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:33 am

cnavarro wrote:I'd recommend sticking to a 2056 if you're on a budget. A cast-iron 103 engine is not what would be considered reliable, by any means. Stick to boring out your stock cylinders and replacing the pistons, at the very least, with a set of keith blacks- that would be a good starting point.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
Bore the stock Cylinders to what? 93? what about 96 P&C and stroker crank (78mm type 1 journals, stock length type one rods)? I have to replace the P&C and the heads anyway (I'll post some pics next weekend, it's that bad).

The most the car will be driven is to Tenn. MAYBE Georgia twice a year, otherwise no more than four hours driving on the weekend (well, maybe a little longer if I feel froggy)

I am very much a TIV newbie, but I can build a motor like a (expletive) just need the basics, like what I should get for a weekender car, with some weekday (when I feel like cruising to work in style) driving. I want to be able to stomp my buddy's Camaro (390-something smallblock, set up for racing) or his 'stang (mostly stock Cobra) as he feels the VW is an inferior creature.

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hotbug1776
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Post by hotbug1776 » Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:54 am

What about these "nickies" and "squishies"? They cost more, but I could go bigger, right? I could have that kind of cash in a few months of working extra overtime. I just want to be able to embarrass these kids who think honda's are the original import tuner :wink:

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Wesayso
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Post by Wesayso » Mon Mar 01, 2004 3:03 am

I guess if you could get that kind of cash, go for it! get the 102mm Nickies and a stroker crank! Better yet, get a kit from Jake. This way you would be sure all the parts fit and work well together

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Stroker 40 horse
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Post by Stroker 40 horse » Mon Mar 01, 2004 3:51 am

Just how bad are the heads? The 1.7 heads are a good choice for a budget motor like yours.

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hotbug1776
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Post by hotbug1776 » Mon Mar 01, 2004 4:20 am

Stroker 40 horse wrote:Just how bad are the heads? The 1.7 heads are a good choice for a budget motor like yours.
the motor looks like someone took a dump in it, literally. I'm not sure if the valves will even move without taking the seats with them. One valve cover was missing for over a year, and the other valve cover was filled with water. I was amazed by the fact that the crank and cam looked so clean, I had expected them to be the worst of all, seeing as the crankcase was filled with water instead of oil. I'll get some pics ASAP an post them on my web site (I'll give the url later).

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Post by yetibone » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:29 am

Using 102mm cylinders and a stroker crank would nessesitate a lot of expensive head work, and an expensive header.

Charles is right about the reliability of iron 103's, and Nickies are astronomical $$ (but worth it :D ), plus $2k in head work, plus $2k in an exhaust just to make the big bore cylinders work efficiently.

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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:46 am

There is no substitute for my engine kit! Without it you cannot get the best combination of parts, the best configuration for the powerband you desire, nor the preparation work to make it happen as easy as a stock engine for you.

This even includes dynamic balancing, and all the case work done to your case for you- There is no substitute!

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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro » Mon Mar 01, 2004 7:59 am

Sorry I didn't clarify myself more- when I said to bore out the stock cylinders, I should have said to 96mm then had a set of keith blacks match honed to the cylinders (jake does this too).

You could build a 2270 96 x 78, but I would save yourself lots of headache and purchase it in kit form. I have been told by many of my customers that they wish they had just purchased a kit from Jake rather than piece the whole thing together- they would have saved money, time, and ended up with a proven combination.

I just had one customer buy a Nickies cylinder and head stud kit to go with his Raby 2270 combo, so even on a 2270 Nickies are a possibility. If you go larger, the sky is the limit, but you will absolutely need Nickies and a larger exhaust- $$$. Headwork is a mute point- I usually spend the same amount prepping a set of 42 x 36 or 44 x 38s than I do on a set of 48 x 38s for a customer. Ask Jake what he can do for an exhaust, since I know he was testing some more economical exhaust solutions than the Tangerine System (which I have used and recommended to many customers since I think that it is indeed one of the nicest exhausts available).

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

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