Someone please tell me what to do....

VW's aircooled mini SUV. Great for riding in the country, or cruising the beach.
rollin900
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Someone please tell me what to do....

Post by rollin900 » Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:08 pm

Ok, i do not know if i am getting to much gas or not enough....or what the black stuff that my exhaust is spitting out is, but i would like some help. I do not know anything about this stuff and i am sure that it would be easier to take it to someone to get it fixed, but i wanna learn on my own. Here is 4 pics of my carb and 2 of the stuff shooting out. could someone tell me what to look for to figure out what is going on......i have to keep giving it gas for it to run..... There seems to be alot of gas coming out....but then again i do not know how much is enough. Umm...i do not know what else to ask, but i would like to get it running nice before i start on the body....which is horrific. I did only pay 1k for it and a vw guy here told me that 1k for a running thing no matter what the body is like is worth it. If you want to know anything just ask!!

http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/Carb1.jpg
http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/carb2.jpg
http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/carb3.jpg
http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/carb4.jpg
http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/blackstuff.jpg
http://www.roushimsx.com/rollin900/blackstuff2.jpg

hope these links work.

thanks a ton

Nick

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drkoontz
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Post by drkoontz » Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:13 pm

Are you sure that this is gas and not oil it is blowing?

rollin900
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Post by rollin900 » Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:17 pm

well, actually i am pretty sure that it is oil....sorry for the miscommunication. Why would it do that? It has sat for a bit.....umm...like a year i think. would that make a difference?

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drkoontz
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Post by drkoontz » Mon Aug 23, 2004 9:40 pm

I would do a compression check on all four cylinders and see what that shows.

rollin900
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Post by rollin900 » Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:15 pm

How would i accomplish that? or should i take it to someone to do?

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drkoontz
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Post by drkoontz » Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:25 pm

rollin900 wrote:How would i accomplish that? or should i take it to someone to do?
It is not super difficult to do,but if you feel more comfortable with a mechanic doing it, go for it.

You would need something along the lines of a compression tester (see below)
Image

Normally this is done on a warm engine.
You would remove all four of your spark plugs.
Disconnect or disable your ignition system (no spark)
Prop open your carb to full throttle.
Crank your engine.
Use your new compression tester on each cylinder (the same number of cranks ( revolutions).

Compare your results/readings.
This will let you know what shape the engine is in.

When you have your compression readings you can make judgments on what might be going on.
Hope this helps,Michael

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drkoontz
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Post by drkoontz » Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:38 pm


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mharney
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Post by mharney » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:08 pm

Put something plastic down, like a kitchen trash bag and let it spatter on that.. then let it sit for a little while and see if it dries up. If it stays wet, it's oil.

Where in the city are you? I will be down there for the Labor Day weekend. I could have a look for you, and try to help you out.

--Mark

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drkoontz
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Post by drkoontz » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:17 pm

mharney wrote:Put something plastic down, like a kitchen trash bag and let it spatter on that.. then let it sit for a little while and see if it dries up. If it stays wet, it's oil.

Where in the city are you? I will be down there for the Labor Day weekend. I could have a look for you, and try to help you out.

--Mark
Best case scenario ,Stuck float?

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mharney
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Post by mharney » Mon Aug 23, 2004 11:19 pm

Ya... I am thinking that or a lot of damn water in the muffler, or if neither, a trashed cylinder or wiper ring.

rollin900
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Post by rollin900 » Tue Aug 24, 2004 6:52 am

I am on the air force base here. I will try the compression check if i can find a tester. Thanks for the info.....anymore out there?

Nick

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Marc
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Post by Marc » Tue Aug 24, 2004 10:14 am

Was the engine warm when those pictures were taken? If the key had been on for more than a few minutes the choke should've been off all the way and it isn't. The plate on top of the carb should be straight-up vertical and the fast-idle cam (the stairstep thingie on the left) should be down to the last position when the choke is all the way off. It's adjusted by loosening the three screws on the clamp-ring around the heating element on the right and rotating the element.
Check to see if the idle cutoff solenoid (the cylindrical thingie screwed into the LH side) is working. With the key on, you should hear it click each time you disconnect/connect the power wire to it.
You could have a carb adjustment problem, or a jet or passageway might be plugged...could also be an ignition malady, for example the points may not be gapped correctly which'll make the spark weak and cause the timing to be retarded - that's quick to check and doesn't take any special tools, just remove the cap & rotor and turn the engine by hand until the gap between the points is at its widest - they should be about the thickness of a matchbook cover apart (if not, loosen the screw and use the tip of a screwdriver to lever the fixed point over...there's a little post protruding from the breakerplate and a notch in the side of the points for this purpose). If one of the contacts has a buildup of metal on it you can't measure the gap until you've made it flat again - an emery board or strip of sandpaper should do the trick, or it they look nasty just replace them, they're only a few bucks - try to find genuine Bosch. Do they have an auto hobby shop on base? They should have a timing light and a dwell meter (that's the better way to check the point setting) and a compression tester...
A minor point but worth mentioning - there's no "loop seal" in the vacuum advance line running between the carb and distributor (it should go UP for a few inches before it heads down to the distributor). Without this there's a tendency for the vacuum-advance canister to fill up with gasoline over time, which'll mess up its action and the timing won't be right. You have to remove the canister (or the entire distributor) and invert it to drain out any trapped liquid. There's a metal pipe with a U-bend in it that can go in the line or you can just use a longer line and tie it up. I don't think much of that generic rubber fuel line, you should try to find some genuine braid-reinforced stuff - it'll stand up to the underhood temperature far longer. Size is 5.5mm. The inline fuel filter can be a problem, too - some have reported them leaking or contributing to the carb inlet pipe working loose. A safer, although less-convenient, place for it would be up front under the tank.

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Bob Ingman
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Post by Bob Ingman » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:15 am

Thanks Marc we appreciate your input. Bob

rollin900
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Post by rollin900 » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:22 am

should the adjustment of the plate and the fast idle cam be automatic....when i am looking at it while running, it does not ever move....i have to move it by hand. Also, the stuff coming out of the exhaust is not dry and powdery...so i think that it is just soot, or somehting along that line. also, they do have an auto hobby shop. I will try and check for those things today if i get time.

Thanks....more help is always greatly appreciated.

Nick

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Marc
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Post by Marc » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:34 am

When power is applied to the heating element on the RH side of the carb (it comes from the ignition coil's positive terminal, so it's "hot" whenever the key is on) it warms up a bimetallic spring inside that relaxes and allows the choke plate to open - and it should be automatic...the fast-idle cam can't move until you touch the throttle, but the choke plate should gradually become vertical within about three minutes of the key being turned on. If it isn't working you could buy another choke element, but you don't really need a choke except in arctic climates so you might want to just adjust it all the way "off". It may take a few taps of the throttle to squirt in some extra gas via the accelerator pump to get it started on a cold morning and it may not idle by itself for a minute or so.

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