CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

This is the place to discuss, or get help with any of your Type 4 questions.
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Piledriver
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by Piledriver »

Everyone runs into this...

There is a bit of metal sticking straight back from the breather tower, rectangular, ~25ish-mm x 12mm x12mm ish.

As this serves absolutely no useful purpose anyone can determine, it gets cut off.
(I have a knock sensor on mine, but my setup is in a T3)

It should all(just) fit with the pulley removed.

You may need an engine compartment stretcher depending on previous subtle body damage, bit cutting that bit of metal off does the deed for most.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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sideshow
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by sideshow »

I hated putting my t-4 into a 1500cc ghia hole, but loosening the clutch cover doesn't sound like the answer.

Looking back at your pictures I'm guessing that you removed the one boss near the case split/below the stand halfway through the build? Good.

I always removed the outer pulley shell, I even left the pulley nut on (just to cover the threads). Some times I would remove the alt/fan assembly, but that was rare.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

I got it in but it was a pain in the ass, fiddling with the pressure plate and clutch with the engine hanging in mid air :x .
Image
Next I have to figure out how to hook up the flapper boxes to the cars heating pipe, I figure a custom adapter pipe will need to be made. When my muffler arrives, I will have to shorten my heater boxes and weld up the flanges to get the right tailpipe angle and ground clearance.
Last edited by CLKWRK on Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:32 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Piledriver
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by Piledriver »

If you have not settled on an exhaust yet. look at the Bursch and the Sebring exhaust at Pelican parts.
They are for a 914 but the 1.7/8 version will bolt on to your setup and tuck in close.

The Sebring is a relatively cheap 4>1 that looks like it will take a std Bug stinger or muffler setup, the Bursch is a nice quality Tri-Y bit that may need some massaging to make it fit.

I run a modified Bursch on my T3 with a Bugpack hide away that has been altered to fit.
With the EMW HX replacement pipes it is ~equal length and seems to work well on a mild engine.

A lister previously did this in his Ghia w/HX and it cam out quite sano, was a few years back.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

I am going to try the vintage speed muffler for now, if the performance sucks I can always swap it for the merged header I already have. I am not looking for max power from this build, just reliable highway cruising.
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

Here is an update,
The Vintagespeed muffler has arrived, Its very pretty and was packed very well. I have chopped my 411 heater boxes to the correct length and have been able to testfit the muffler under the apron.

However, there are a couple of problems with it:

1. My 1971 rear apron does not have the dual muffler tip cutouts like the later ghias, the muffler has two gussets on the tips that hit the rear apron. I had to cut these off, thus ruining the beautiful finish that comes on these mufflers :(
2. the O2 sensor bung is place at such an angle that my wideband sensor will not fit between the muffler and the apron. I will have to cut out the original bung and weld in an angled one.
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sideshow
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by sideshow »

Ghia aprons only have slight dents for the pea shooters, no cutouts like beetles. Can't see pictures of your other issues.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

There are no dents on my original 1971 apron, I have not seen them them on other 71 Ghias as well.
I have seen them on 72 - 74 Ghias, no idea about the older ones.
Either way, the gusset still will hit the apron and have to be removed.

I see now that the gussets belong on the bottom and I have fitted it upside down. I have tried fitting it the other way and it helped the 02 sensor placement, but the pea shooters did not clear the apron at all, it fits much better upside down (except for the gussets and o2 sensor, which are fixable).

Classic VW wisdom alert: No single aftermarket part that I have ever bought for my car fit or functioned perfectly without some modification, even some stock parts will require it too. It seems that this pretty and well built part is no exception.
Steve Arndt
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by Steve Arndt »

Your 60-2 pulley should be there any day. Went out Friday at 9 AM.
I hate customs forms.
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

Thanks Steve,

That pulley is much better than the one I was using. Electromotive supplies a modified scat pulley with a tiny trigger wheel bolted on to it.
Sorry about that, customs forms DO suck.
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samhayne
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by samhayne »

Piledriver wrote:If you have not settled on an exhaust yet. look at the Bursch and the Sebring exhaust at Pelican parts.
They are for a 914 but the 1.7/8 version will bolt on to your setup and tuck in close.

The Sebring is a relatively cheap 4>1 that looks like it will take a std Bug stinger or muffler setup, the Bursch is a nice quality Tri-Y bit that may need some massaging to make it fit.

I run a modified Bursch on my T3 with a Bugpack hide away that has been altered to fit.
With the EMW HX replacement pipes it is ~equal length and seems to work well on a mild engine.

A lister previously did this in his Ghia w/HX and it cam out quite sano, was a few years back.
Thanks for mentioning this. I thought I had seen everything that was available. I'm running mine in a bug. Has anyone seen this setup on a bug? Also. The late bus exhaust that has "F" pipes and the 2 small u pipes. I was thinking about using this setup and a couple of motorcycle mufflers. Harder to check AFR but might work nice. A Clkwrk..keep up the good work!
66 bug
I run a thermostat.
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Piledriver
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by Piledriver »

The F pipes are generally to be avoided, they were for use with a California only HX/exhaust setup.

..the 2 tube/side HX and a Bursch or Sebring 914 exhaust would not be all that bad, and will push plenty of heat.
If you do not need heat EMW sells HX replacement pipes that are close to equal length, and with a Bursch it's close enough it really doesn't matter due to the pairing and the way a tri-y works.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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CLKWRK
Posts: 307
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2001 1:01 am

Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

Today I welded up the shortened heater boxes and hung the muffler, I need to make the cradle that will support the weight of the muffler, as it is hanging off the exhaust studs right now, also the cold air intakes to the heater boxes need to be fabricated.
Image
Image
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

Today I capped off the ends of my shortened heater boxes:
Image
Notice that the flange is welded on upside down, this is so the Vintagespeed muffler clears the ghia rear valance
Image

Next I need to add the intake pipes
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CLKWRK
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Re: CLKWRKS Upright Conversion

Post by CLKWRK »

Made hangers for the exhaust today
Image
Next I have to make adapter pipes for the flapper boxes that send air into the car
Image
I also need to remove my remote oil filter from my old set up
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