Bus Type 4 build

[voltwagen]

I'm looking/needing to put a new engine in my 72 Bay, I've currently got the standard 1600 type 1 but it's just not up to what I need now.

I'm going to put in a type 4 engine, I've a few choices available, but it really comes down to a standard 2L or something a bit bigger. As it's a bus I want torque, it's not getting build for racing from the lights/around town but for long road trips.

Depending on the cost I am thinking of building a stroker motor, a 78/94 would prob be the biggest I'd be happy going, but I don't really think I need it that big, is 76/94 a common size? or is it basically the same cost to go a little bigger?

I really only need a 2L but if it's all getting rebuilt and it's only a little more to increase the size I'm happy to spend a little more on it, or would I be better spending the extra money on better carbs/efi and an exhaust?

[cal 67]

I don't think there is a "stroker" 94mm option, but you do have several avenues you could take if you wanted a 78x94 (2165cc) engine: you could A: order custom forged pistons, use Type 1 pistons paired with connecting rods that have a 22mm wrist pin bushing, or you could search catalogs for a suitable 94mm piston that has a close enough compression height for your needs. I think I know of one. The pin was 24.2, so it might require the small end to be slightly reamed for a precise fit.

If you do, you'll be raising the compression significantly because the pistons would likely be flat-topped, and the added engine capacity would require more chamber volume. You'll need to do chamber work to end back up at an acceptable compression ratio.

[voltwagen]

Cheers for the info, I was trying to stay away from 96’s due to loads I may put on them

[Clatter]

IMHO, stock 1971 (2L) internals are a good compromise between reliability and performance.
So you'd like to source a 2L crank/rods/P&L.
These show up on Craigslist/Kijiji whichever quite frequently,
or you might find them on TOS.

What part of the world are you in?
In the US, you would have had a 1700, which has a bunch of great parts for building a good bus motor.
FWIW, the build in my sig was the 'best' parts of stock 2L and 1700 stuff.

If you have only a 1600 beetle motor, and no core 1700, you might try and find one.
1700s seem to be the most common to be found complete in a junk pile or yard..

[voltwagen]

I’m in Australia, I can get my hands on a 1700 easy enough, but the guy has priced it quite high, I can also get my hands on some 2L’s some with solid lifters some with hydraulic, I’ll be going the solid lifters route.

Is it just the heads and the rockers on the 1700 that are the good parts? If already got some 1700 rockers and 911 elephant feet on there way from someone retiring and selling off collected parts cheap.

[Clatter]

1700 has the better exhaust setup, as well as the associated tins.
Supposedly the cases are better as well.
I shoot for using the 1.7 as the core,
Then add the 2.0 crank/rods/pistons..
1.7 heaters and tins are getting hard to find.

[voltwagen]

1700 has the better exhaust setup, as well as the associated tins.
Supposedly the cases are better as well.
I shoot for using the 1.7 as the core,
Then add the 2.0 crank/rods/pistons..
1.7 heaters and tins are getting hard to find.

Cheers for the info,

I didn't know that the 1.7 tins were different. I've heard something about the quality of the metal being better in the 1.7's before the accountants took more control, no idea if it's true though. When you say, exhaust setup are you meaning in the heads or the actual exhaust. My plan wasn't to use the heaters anyway and just use 'J tubes'

[SoundFlick]

I'm also building/rebuilding a T4 for my 72 bus. I have the 1.7 with dual carbs but have always had lingering head issues. I found a 2.0 from a 1979 bus to rebuild with the complete fuel injection setup. I'm leaning towards a camper special kit with new heads. Maybe increasing the displacement if it doesn't reduce reliability...

[subtaf]

I built a type4 for my own bus with a 76mm crank using stock 2L rods and barrels. Had a fair bit of punch on the freeway and open road. The cam was a bit big for the compression ratio I was running (8:1)so it was a bit soggy below 2500 rpm. Building something similar to a Camper special will probably be your best result for costs. Therefore, I'd spend more of your money on the heads, carburetors, ignition and exhuast instead of the 5mm extra in crank stroke.