Can static timing with electronic ignition be done?

[sagaboy]

After normal static timing and marking made on the distributor/engine casing, etc. and then the distributor is modified by adding an electronic switch (compu something) to replace the contact point.

In theory, I should be able to apply the static timing way by…
1. Put the distributor back into the marked position
2. Connect a volt meter or the usual pilot lamp
3. Turn the pulley to the marking ie: 7.5 BTDC
4. Switch on the ignition
5. Then slowly hand turn the distributor until the pilot lamp light-up blink or the volt meter display 12 voltage
6. Lock the distributor base nut

Any suggestions? Thanks.

[Max Welton]

The coil generates a spark when the points open and the field collapses.

So at step 5, you should be turning the distributor counter-clockwise and stop when the circuit opens.

Max

[Marc]

I think you could have problems using a voltmeter (not the least of which being that you could damage the meter if you goofed up).
You can static-time with no test equipment merely by observing the spark.
Position the crank so the timing mark is a few inches to the left of 12:00, nearing #1 firing position. Switch on the ignition, pull the high-tension wire from the coil out of the distributor cap and hold it ~½" from a good ground. Rotate the crank slowly by hand until the spark occurs and note the crank position. If it's wrong, position the crank at the desired spot, loosen the distributor and turn it slightly clockwise, then CCW until the spark occurs; snug it down, turn the crank slightly clockwise and repeat the first test.

[sagaboy]

Thanks a lot, it is really appreciated--after 18 months, I can finally install my electronic contact switch )

My dwell/strobo meter just somehow after static and checking never match my static timing.

[Marc]

I set my timing this way after changing my points last weekend because my timing light was loaned out; when I got it back and rechecked, it was exactly the same. The key is to always make that final check by turning the crank CCW a few inches and then slo-o-o-wly rotating it clockwise until you get the spark; this takes up all of the slop in the distributor drive and you should get a setting which is identical to what you'd get with a strobe.

[Muffler Mike]

this is how i do mine.
especially with a fresh motor.
Typically, i will leave rockers and spark plugs out and crank for oil pressure.
during or after this time. i will install a plug in the end of the wires and ground the plugs somewhere. (lay threads against a bare header or something like that. I will some times use a jumper wire from outer electrode to a good ground.)
turn ignition on and crank with timing light on. check timing while it is cranking. Very accurate this way. And test the igition set up ahead of time.
it does help that i have a starter button in my engine compartment, so it doesnt take two people for me.
But im always a little different. and this is just one suggestion

[Schmooey]

You can also use a table radio to hear the spark. Tune to a quiet spot between stations and turn up the volume. The spark should be audible as a click.

[mpdykeman]

Hey, I used to do that years ago with a computer that I would write games for in basic. I had no sound so I would put an AM radio beside the computer and then all the clicks and whirls the radio made as the computer went through loops and whatever made excellent sound effects!

Sorry to get off topic, it just brought back fond memories.

[LondonG]

Ok. 15 years later and I need to revive this thread! I'm trying to do this method - static timing for electronic distributor (no points) on my 1600 T2 Camper (1978).

Whatever I do I can't seem to get a spark from the lead - I crank reeeeally slowly. nothing.

I do have the ignition turned to the first notch (dash lights on).

I have the distributor roughly aligned.

I unplug the centre HT lead from the distributor and hold it close to the metal of the carb/alternator while cranking passed 7.5 degrees before TDC and nothing. I explore all around the pulley positions to see if I'm out by loads on the distributor position....but I never get a spark. What could I be doing wrong?

Any help gratefully received!