Going under the knife

Notches, fastbacks, squarebacks.
User avatar
GS guy
Posts: 909
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by GS guy »

Before the $$ goes down, do some googling on Summit/Jegs (or any brand you're thinking of using) AN fitting problems/leaks. YMMV!
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

GS guy wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:23 am Max - can you not just locate the entire filter on the other (front) side of the bar? Meaning rotate it 180* with the mounting now to the rear side of the bar with hoses & filter towards the front? More than once I've had to relocate items and associated plumbing/fittings/mounts/etc. to "make it work". Often many many times to find the right combo. AN stuff further complicates the situation with the bulk of the fittings and set fitting/hose end angles!
Jeff
Thing is the oil return is on the left. Between the type-3 shroud and the mustache bar and the fact that the 1+2 cylinders are offset to the rear, there is no room to get to the right side without taking the return line under the engine. Interesting idea though.

Edit: Seems I read your post too fast. Yes I could have put the filter forward of the bar. I'll have to remember that. :wink:

OK, I've made adjustments to the filter mount. Here's the before and after.
20210927_140601.jpg
20210929_140305.jpg
This will work. I will now need to adjust the line lengths.

Oh Lee. I've decided against hard lines. The end of the mustache bar will be connected to the body and there is a chance of movement between the body and the engine. Hard lines might fatigue and break.

And of course they would do that 2 states away from my shop. ;-)

Max
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Max Welton on Wed Sep 29, 2021 3:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 17758
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

"Oh Lee. I've decided against hard lines. The end of the mustache bar will be connected to the body and there is a chance of movement between the body and the engine. Hard lines might fatigue and break."

While there is the potential for body movement which doesn't sound like a good idea in-itself but I am sure you have thought that out well; the choice sounds right and for (hopefully) the right reasons. Just be covered also on the softer lines because of the potential body movements there also.

Lee
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

Unlike a type-1, this engine and transmission are on a subframe which is connected to the body by rubber donuts. As I understand it, this is to help with sound isolation. One of the many reasons I like type-3s. ;-)

Max
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

OK, pump primed. Tomorrow I'll put the shroud, alternator, IGN4 and VR sensor on the engine.
20210929_154022.jpg
I need to source a multi-pin connector to bring all the engine hookup wires together up near the front tin. Let's see ...

VR 2 wires
IGN4 3 wires
TPS 3 wires
CLT 3 wires
IAT 2 wires
Injectors 4

That's 17. Eventually I'll add one of Marios cam position sensors and go sequential with the injectors. And whatever else I may want.

What is a good multi pin connector in the 30 pin range?

Max
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

Actually what I'll do first is hang the engine on the test stand and spin it for oil pressure. See if anything leaks.

Max
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

Max Welton wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 3:56 pm What is a good multi pin connector in the 30 pin range?
Maybe this:

https://thedubshop.com/pmu-16-connector/

Max
Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 17758
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

For basic all around nice and quiet driving the soft mounts are good. For more aggressive driving then things like the need for different motor mounts usually can start to change.

It has to be your choice/decision Max.

Lee
User avatar
GS guy
Posts: 909
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by GS guy »

Max,
I'd run separate connectors for sensors/injectors and ignition wiring. Personally I'd run 3 different connectors - don't forget O2. Having ignition wiring too close to low voltage sensor wiring seems like a disruptive combo to me. IMHO, FWIW!
Jeff
R2.0
Posts: 602
Joined: Sat Apr 24, 2004 12:18 pm

Re: Going under the knife

Post by R2.0 »

Max Welton wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 4:02 pm
Max Welton wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 3:56 pm What is a good multi pin connector in the 30 pin range?
Maybe this:

https://thedubshop.com/pmu-16-connector/

Max
That looks like only one side of a connector. Perhaps an Ampseal set?

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3 ... onnectors/
1972 Karmann Ghia Convertible

"As God is my witness I though turkeys could fly." - A. Carlson -
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

Ol'fogasaurus wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 4:54 pm For basic all around nice and quiet driving the soft mounts are good. For more aggressive driving then things like the need for different motor mounts usually can start to change.

It has to be your choice/decision Max.

Lee
Of course. The car is intended to be a cruiser. Later the 2110 will provide more roll-on power but driving hard off the line is just not my style.

Max
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

GS guy wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:16 pm Max,
I'd run separate connectors for sensors/injectors and ignition wiring. Personally I'd run 3 different connectors - don't forget O2. Having ignition wiring too close to low voltage sensor wiring seems like a disruptive combo to me. IMHO, FWIW!
Jeff
In the mule, the MS ecu lived under the rear seat on the left side near the VR. The entire wire bundle (excluding the 02) was strapped to the stock wiring in the left rear fender. Interference wasn't a problem there so I don't expect an issue here. If it is, I'll make changes.

Now the 02 sensor wiring will get its own path. The location I choose for the sensor on the CSP exhaust means the wires will travel almost straight up to the underside of the load deck on the right side, then run forward to where all the engine management stuff lives behind the rear seat. Its an AEM unit with an inline controller.

Max
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

R2.0 wrote: Wed Sep 29, 2021 5:37 pm That looks like only one side of a connector. Perhaps an Ampseal set?

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3 ... onnectors/
Expensive.

Mouser has a bunch of stuff.

Max
User avatar
Max Welton
Posts: 3023
Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by Max Welton »

Tested the oil pump & plumbing.

The good news is the pressure comes up solid now, 50 lbs cranking with the plugs out. Flat sanding the scratches out of the pump worked.

Bad news, my little stack of home depot an8 fittings leaked. I now have an order into Summit for 2 of their 1-7/8" -8AN extenders.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/110592/10002/-1

Max
User avatar
GS guy
Posts: 909
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:01 am

Re: Going under the knife

Post by GS guy »

Home Depot? I presume the filter mount fittings are female NPT (3/8?). Standard hardware store SAE plumbing fittings are 45 degree, while AN and hydraulic JIC fittings are 37 degree. AN and JIC play well together, SAE doesn't. With your female hose end (also presuming it is JIC/AN 37 deg.), it looks like you need an extended NPT to male AN adapter fitting - which I looked up and can't believe how much they cost!!! Sheesh.
With a standard NPT to AN adapter off your filter, the extension you linked should work. Otherwise a somewhat kludgy combo of male and female NPT nipples plus NPT to AN adapter would be needed.
Jeff
Post Reply