Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I am not sure now when I built the rotisserie but it has to be close to 20 years ago.





A few weeks ago I removed the pan off the rotisserie as it was going into full assembly but left the stands together, just-in-case. Today I took the stands apart and put them away for the next (if there is one) project. Goodnight sweet princes! (read misty eyed)

The transaxle is fully bolted in now, still waiting for the hydraulic slave cylinder pivot to come in.

Started painting the axles so I can start the assembly; repacking the CV, installing the boots then bolting them to the transaxle and stub axles. I need to replace two, if not all four of the cupped washers.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Dusty, thanks for the picture... nice looking rig.

I have to fold almost in half to get in-between the body and the cage as I do not have a T-top setup. The top bars are on the radius and bent partly for getting in and out (yeah... right) plus I have a center bar that is good but complicates things on egress. They are like that more for tipping into something like a tree. The center bar works great for a mount for the GoPro. If I am going to run tree bars (they would make things much more complicated for getting in or out but might be OK for sitting on changing into my driving shoes (very narrow and light weight tennie-runners/ground grabbers) than tree bars it would be (ref: the picture I posted to Herbie showing my one-and-only instance of playing spin the bottle with the forest).

Like I said, I have a drawing that I am not sure of but when done I will scan and post it.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Question: while cleaning and painting my drive axles today I noticed that one of them, near both ends. has a raised band around it while the other one has two bands near both ends. I don't remember having axles like this before but then the blue buggy has sway-a-way axles for an 091 and I don't remember if these axle were part of the blue buggy or the doner Baja for the black buggy.

Are the bands anything I should know about????

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Went to my local VW shop (Autovice/Bow Wow) and got some used cuped washers and snap-rings plus some clarificcation information on how to do it. Since my VW manual isn't clear about it I am going to take some pictures to show how it works... or doesn't work. Trying something new again.

Picked up the wife and stepdaughter today from the airport; it was 104 two days ago and 101 yesterday at Disneyland so they were happy got get back to the land of the cooler weather (ts 66 degrees out right now) so now my time is not my own.

I have so restock the pantry then either tomorrow or the day after I will pack the CVs an try to slam the whole thing back together without hurting myself.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

If doc doesn't mind I think I will make a "how to" on the whole sequence and post on the VW's For Newbies forum and cross reference it here.

As a start of what I think I am planning:

To align them properly look at the inside of each CV installed on the axle, viewed from the center of the axle. The objective is to align a WIDE race wall on one CV with a NARROW race wall on the other CV. "Wide aligns with Narrow", as shown in these pictures. The arrow points the hole on the other side.

A good place to start!

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have one side done now, with an (ornery boot left to adjust) and final torqueing of the CV bolts. I don't have CV washers so I will have to get a couple dozen of them as the threaded part of the bolts come out a little longer than I like.

I learned a lot on the one side. What the manual said and what I was told sbout testing your religion I think might be true. I thought the shop press might be easier to use really wasn't and wouldn't be unless you have a jig to hold the half-shaft vertical.

I have some pictures but I will take some more that might help clarify; at least the Haynes manual I have.

Time to rest my weary back some.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I now have the CVs greased, attached to the half-shafts and that assembly is now mounted between the transaxle and the stub axle. I did find out what the raised areas of the axles were for... for locating the boots. I still have to move the ends of the boots out which will be an experience in itself.



I was short one bolt and the washers used on the type 1s but I now have it and the washers. This shows the depth of the bolts sans the washers which is closer to things than I would like. The bolts haven't been torqued in yet so that would make things a bit worse. The EMPI washers were about $1.50 a piece and you need 12 of them.

I took a bunch more "in process" pictures of installing the CVs onto the drive axles but not sure if anyone is interested.

Lee

[bajaherbie]

i'd put washers on the cv bolts. surely you could find a substitute.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

As I said, I now have the missing bolt and I got 12 of the stock style of VW washers. Everything should be up-to-snuff tomorrow unless I have to mow the yard. I preferred to have the stock style of washer as the metal flange on the boots isn't that thick.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

After doing yard work (Honey-do List) I finally got to work on the buggy. I removed and worked on each of the axles separately to make sure of no confusion .

After removing an axle assembly I took it over to a table and removed the bolts from the CV and boot and popped the boot off the CV. I then sprayed some WD-50 where the axle and boot rubber flange joined. Then, taking a small screw driver, I carefully, so as not to scrape the new paint, lifted the boot so the WD-40 would slide down a bit. I then stood the axle on end and pushed down on the boot. After some pushing and a bit of twisting the boot lost traction with the paint and suddenly slid down the axle farther than I wanted but the boot and axle were still slippery allowing me to slide the boot back to where I wanted it.

I then slid onto two adjoining bolts into a washer and reinstalled the now joined bolts through the boots metal flange and the CV. Both ends done then I reinstalled the axle assembly and went to the other axle assembly.

Over all it didn't take a whole lot of time to fix.



(for Herbie)

This shows the new washers that I got installed. The are EMPI and I think the cost was about a buck and a half apiece. I used wire ties in lieu of the metal bands and just noticed than I don't have them all the way to the end. I think they will be OK but are still accessible to be replaced properly at a later time.



The spacers were enough that there was enough out the end of the stub and flange on the transaxle to make me comfortable but not enough to be a worry.

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Question: it has been so long since I took the origional baha the pan came from apart I don't remember the reason for some of the holes in the back of the pan.

1) on the side where the battery mount is there is a large hole which I suspect if for the battery cables to exit the pan. Is that what the hole is for"

2) on the opposite side there are two holes, one larger than the other. What are they for? I think one might be for the brake lines but if so... which one; the larger or smaller hole.

Before I can get back onto the body lift I have to fill or block those holes. if the one hole that I think is for the battery cables I will just block but the other two holes don't fit (are in the way) what I want to do.

Lee

[Steve Arndt]

Battery positive cable to starter through the big hole.
http://www.jbugs.com/product/111-707.html

On the left side the hole that is close to the tunnel and about 1" diameter is for the rear brake line.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks Steve... what I need to know with the proper part. I'll have to see if I can find it locally as I am lothe to ordering on line after a very bad experience.

Is there a grommet for the brake line? What I have to do is run a brake line for the turning brakes on the passenger side and a pair of lines for the turning brake and hydraulic clutch on the driver's side.

Once that is out of the way I can cut and shape the body gasket for the body lift... then I can get busy with the mount for it to the torsion tube.

For those who don't understand: the gasket does raise the lift a bit and since I want the lift to be able to be removed I have to account for the compressed thickness of the gasket. I don't want a rattler (I look at this as if I don't or can't sell the body/pan for what I want then I am going to have to live with it... it might be over kill but its my problem!).

Lee

[Steve Arndt]

The brake line grommet is the same for the front where the line runs forward, and in the back. It is split to go around the line. Here is a pic:

https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw ... -211611751

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Thanks Steve. I am not sure how to make that work though. When you vary from the basic design you are on your own for a lot of the easy things .

I've been looking at this trying figure out what to do for quite a while now. I didn't want to weld the holes shut until I had the answers you supplied. I'm at the point where I am going to have to make a decision do something about the quandry I am in within the next week.

Thanks again for your help.

Lee